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Old 01-12-2007, 12:22 PM   #61
Jon@Bimmersport
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Hey flav, so that was you who came in the other days..why didnt you say anything to me?

E36iS...I understand what you're trying to say, but what is the point of spending the shop's time (also the custome's money) when you know that 0 compression means that the cylinder is done. If a rebuild is neccessary, you dont just take out a piston and put the new one, the sleeves in the block need to be machined etc. You would machine all the cylinders while your doing it, unless you have money to spend.

Just for a rough figure, my intake valve bent and I was loosing compression and a brand new complete head cost me around 1800 with the port and polish, but if I were to replace 1 valve the labour costs would be the same..so why replace one, and wait for the rest to go...you might as well do it all while you're there.

Of course, I think charlie would have mentioned already...but if you're swapping out your engine you can upgrade to a vanos M50, which is better naturally aspirtated but if you are planning on FI then the non vanos block and head can take more of a beating due to the thicker cylinder walls, 10-1 compression and dual valve springs. Also the cams are a bit hotter for turbo applications, and if your a baller like me you can thrown in an OBD1 S52 and blow by all the stock M3's (even the euros ).

Flav, next time let me know when your commin by the shop..I aint feelin good today so I didnt go in, we have a huge thread and we never talked in person yet. Also a word of advice, if money has to be spent on your engine dont cheap out, the cheaper you go now..the more it might cost you later...this isnt like buying the headlights and stuff like that.
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Last edited by Jon@Bimmersport; 01-12-2007 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 01-12-2007, 12:25 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_blaze
Hey flav, so that was you who came in the other days..why didnt you say anything to me?
lol I don't know what you look like man ...or do i??

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_blaze
Of course, I think charlie would have mentioned already...but if you're swapping out your engine you can upgrade to a vanos M50, which is better naturally aspirtated but if you are planning on FI then the non vanos block and head can take more of a beating due to the thicker cylinder walls, 10-1 compression and dual valve springs. Also the cams are a bit hotter for turbo applications, and if your a baller like me you can thrown in an OBD1 S52 and blow by all the stock M3's (even the euros ).
Yes, he did say that !
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_blaze

Flav, next time let me know when your commin by the shop..I aint feelin good today so I didnt go in, we have a huge thread and we never talked in person yet. Also a word of advice, if money has to be spent on your engine dont cheap out, the cheaper you go now..the more it might cost you later...this isnt like buying the headlights and stuff like that.
Sure. Ok so a complete new head is 1800 eh...but what about the bottom? (That's where the problem is apparently) How much is a COMPLETE COMPLETE engine rebuild where when I put it in, I know it's perfect? I didn't really push Charlie on the price of this cause we said putting in an old one is a lot cheaper, but now I'm having a change of mind.
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Last edited by Dr. Flyview; 01-12-2007 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 01-12-2007, 12:31 PM   #63
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no offense but #1 you complain of a rebuilt title #2 you complain of rust and now you have engine issues.. If you want to completely build the car out to your liking and think it's worth it to you to rebuild and spend all that money sure.. But a used engine or engine swap would be your best bet.. but you'll still have those other things you don't like.. if anything sell it as is.. or fix it with a used 2.5 and sell and get something you really want to begin with?? just my thoughts
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Old 01-12-2007, 12:32 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INFAMOU$
no offense but #1 you complain of a rebuilt title #2 you complain of rust and now you have engine issues.. If you want to completely build the car out to your liking and think it's worth it to you to rebuild and spend all that money sure.. But a used engine or engine swap would be your best bet.. but you'll still have those other things you don't like.. if anything sell it as is.. or fix it with a used 2.5 and sell and get something you really want to begin with?? just my thoughts
True man true, I'm just getting both sides of the story.
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:13 PM   #65
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Uh, maybe I'm jumping the gun but if you part out, I call dibs on the shifter and LSD!

For the motorheads, what's a shortblock M50 worth? Assuming the head is in decent shape? Or would the labour be cost prohibitive?
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:14 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flav_cool
lol I don't know what you look like man ...or do i??
Just look for the little brown dude that giggles. I bet you it will be Jon.
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:13 PM   #67
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I forgot to mention this to Charlie, I don't know if it means anything.

After 3500 rpm, from what I can tell, the car feels perfectly normal! (and pulls just as hard as it used too)...

Having said that, I only know that's true for 1st and 2nd gear, haven't tried the others. But when I first noticed it at 140km/h...I'm sure I was past 3.5K rpm even in 5th and it was still messing up...
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:19 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carjoe
Uh, maybe I'm jumping the gun but if you part out, I call dibs on the shifter and LSD!
Hey man, i befriended Flav just so that i can get my hands on that Z3 short shifter in case he ever parted ou the car! heh
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:48 PM   #69
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Well, if you have a rebuilt title..like me..your not gonna get back any of the money your just about to put into it. So if I were you, Id go all out and build it just the way you want your dream E36..oh wait, that is what im doing.

A full engine rebuild, labour is the smaller concern...parts is what makes the price difference. What we can do, pick up a 3.0L crank and 3.2L sized pistons to start. AA built a 2.9L motor from an M50 by using those parts, we might be able to use your connecting rods im not too sure but they're as good as the M3 rods (only applies to non vanos rods). While the sleeves are being machined (just a basic clean up) you can bore the cylinder's to fit the pistons. Thats just a start, or you can just get forged pistons 10-1 and connecting rods and boost the hell out of the motor.

My advice is buy an S50 complete and drop it in, trust me. Once you find one with good compression and good KM on it you will be good, and it will cost the same..if not cheaper than rebuilding the entire engine (block and head). Too bad that didnt happen sooner, we just sold a complete S50..but there are many more that will be available from Luxtec.
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:05 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny_blaze
Well, if you have a rebuilt title..like me..your not gonna get back any of the money your just about to put into it. So if I were you, Id go all out and build it just the way you want your dream E36..oh wait, that is what im doing.

A full engine rebuild, labour is the smaller concern...parts is what makes the price difference. What we can do, pick up a 3.0L crank and 3.2L sized pistons to start. AA built a 2.9L motor from an M50 by using those parts, we might be able to use your connecting rods im not too sure but they're as good as the M3 rods (only applies to non vanos rods). While the sleeves are being machined (just a basic clean up) you can bore the cylinder's to fit the pistons. Thats just a start, or you can just get forged pistons 10-1 and connecting rods and boost the hell out of the motor.

My advice is buy an S50 complete and drop it in, trust me. Once you find one with good compression and good KM on it you will be good, and it will cost the same..if not cheaper than rebuilding the entire engine (block and head). Too bad that didnt happen sooner, we just sold a complete S50..but there are many more that will be available from Luxtec.
Well S50s are in the 3000-4000 range, and Charlie showed me an S50 he has in his shop. So a complete engine rebuild of an M50-non-vanos is about the same eh?

Yea we're definetly not gonna spend that much though. That doesn't even include the install. But I know what you're saying...the engine would be perfect. It would take a lot of extra money to make the rest of the car perfect too and it's not worth it. It would cost like let's say 3800 for the motor installed, the synchros on gear 4 are going, got an oil leak from the pan gasket, I'd need to fix rust/repaint...pushing this into 12K+ range.
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:46 PM   #71
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i feel sorry for you flavu, is its not worth fixing, maybe your best bet to sell the car as is, or part it out, lots of people got dibs on that z3 shifter
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:47 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v_bimmer
i feel sorry for you flavu, is its not worth fixing, maybe your best bet to sell the car as is, or part it out, lots of people got dibs on that z3 shifter
Man, how am I supposed to part shit out if I can't take them off the car myself? spend money in labor and shipping from a shop so that I can get it back when I sell a part?
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:45 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by propr'one
Actually mirek, a non vanos m50 is MUCH MUCH better than your 2 litre.

I have no problem with you being negative, just get your facts straight

ABS will just prevent your car from going past a certain speed, it doesn't turn off one particular cylinder.

Flaviu, be nice, devon is trying to give you some advice.

Blow me, I was right, he needs a new engine. YOU get your facts straight...

I win. again.
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:59 PM   #74
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Guys, I'm going to replace the engine with another M50 (325), I decided.

Have some questions though:

Charlie told me what engines can go in without any other parts needed, but I forgot.

Would the M50 vanos go in problem free with my current ecu/wiring harness/even intake manifold? ...If I can keep all of these from the current engine it would make it cheaper. (Also, other things I don't know about that you do?)

I'm pretty sure an M52 would not go in without new wiring harness but anyway it's not even in question as it's almost double in price.
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:04 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flav_cool
Guys, I'm going to replace the engine with another M50 (325), I decided.

Have some questions though:

Charlie told me what engines can go in without any other parts needed, but I forgot.

Would the M50 vanos go in problem free with my current ecu/wiring harness/even intake manifold? ...If I can keep all of these from the current engine it would make it cheaper. (Also, other things I don't know about that you do?)

Flav, another thing...add another $500-$1000 for parts JUST in case you need small things, new mounts, for example because its cheaper to do it once the engine is out..who knows though, you may not even need to spend a cent over your calculations..but its better to have extra, than run short half way in the job.

I'm pretty sure an M52 would not go in without new wiring harness but anyway it's not even in question as it's almost double in price.
For vanos: wiring harness, ECU
non-vanos: nothing
for m52: wiring harness,ecu, intake manifold, cam position, crank position, IAT temp sensors and a few more.

and by the way, that pan gasket leak is nothing...its a tiny job once the engine is out..so we can kill 2 birds with 1 stone and by the way, keep an extra $500 just for misc things if its needed..who knows you may not need to spend anything, but its better to have the extra just in case than run short during the job.
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