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Old 01-10-2007, 11:53 AM   #16
E36is
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i suggest you take out the plugs, inspect them, and if they look clean, put them back in and hand tighten them until they stop, then another 1/8 turn should be good. remember its aluminum, so dont cross thread them.
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36is
i suggest you take out the plugs, inspect them, and if they look clean, put them back in and hand tighten them until they stop, then another 1/8 turn should be good. remember its aluminum, so dont cross thread them.
If they are dirty, or screwed up in some way I will definetly not worry about cleaning them and just go exchange them under warranty. Well hmm I dunno if canadian tire would deal with that. I probably have to do it with the company itself...damn.
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Old 01-10-2007, 12:08 PM   #18
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definitely check to see if anything is bridging the electrode to the metal tip.. if they are clean it out. If its all gunked up and oily, i use brake clean spray to clean them.
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Old 01-10-2007, 02:13 PM   #19
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I just checked the coils and sparkplugs. The sparkplugs themselves are fine. A little black around the igniter but not oily or anything, and no real buildup.

Before, some of the coils before, at the very tip (where they flare out) and overlap the sparkplugs, had cracks.

NOW,

Coil 1 has a crack (and had before too), coil 3 and 4 have half-melted tips (not as extreme as it sounds, half of the flaring circle right at the tip is just a little shorter and looks to have "melted" down; also was there before too), and coil 5 has an outright part missing out of the tiny flare at the end. (imagine a crack, but wide) I think this used to be a crack and blew up further apart.

I'm pretty sure it's 5 causing the problem. Can just this "coil stem" be replaced? [answer=yes]

I'm gonna call RMP and see when I can head in.
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:10 PM   #20
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^^ buy new coils..
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:53 PM   #21
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Can you replace just one or should all 6 be done at the same time?

Damn you GTA'ers for having so many kick ass garages nearby...
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Old 01-10-2007, 04:15 PM   #22
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^^ tough call.. replacing one might do it..but then again.. if one was bad, the others are sure to follow.

Carjoe: time to move to GTA..heh
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Old 01-10-2007, 04:20 PM   #23
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You can replace 1 coil, dont replace a coil if you dont need to.
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:20 PM   #24
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Ok guys, some more updates. I was almost sure it was the rubber thing on coil 5, so I went to bimmersport quickly before class, and picked up 2, and replaced both the slightly cracked one and the majorly cracked one... sadly, no difference.

BUT

I have isolated which cylinder it is, and if the spark plug is fine, it has to be the coil. I found it by disconnecting each coil one at a time and running the engine. With most disconnected coils, the engine ran even worse, EXCEPT for 3. [I measured how well the engine was running by stomping quickly on the gas from 2krpm and seeing how high the rpm went. With the one busted coil (3), it would go up to 3.2k, but with an additional one (a good one i happened to disconnect during the test), it would only go up to like 2.7k]

anyone got a coil lying around I can come try??

I'm so impatient lol. I can't even think of doing anything until the poor thing's fixed.
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:36 PM   #25
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A) If your car is misfiring really bad, your idle would (likely) be ****ed.
B) If your car was misfiring really bad, your CEL would throw codes.
C) Sometimes your ecu can be installed incorrectly, or something along the lines. Do a search, proliphic had the same problem you had, and fixed it. (his problem might've been coils too)



Mirek is right, there's no reason to replace all your coils, just replace the ones that are misfiring.

Also, your car definatly didn't run 12.8 stock.

Look up my dyno graphs, at WOT, past about 5000RPM, my car was running less than 10:1, and still made good power.
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:37 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propr'one
A) If your car is misfiring really bad, your idle would be ****ed.
B) If your car was misfiring really bad, your CEL would throw codes.
C) Sometimes your ecu can be installed incorrectly, or something along the lines. Do a search, proliphic had the same problem you had, and fixed it.
How would my idle be ****ed? My CEL light likely doesn't work. How do you explain the car running the same without coil #3?
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36is
or put your ear as close as possible to the coils, if you hear a constant ticking on a coil then its on its way out.
DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I dunno if you guys have ever seen a coil arc, but the last thing you want is for the coil to arc to your ear/head.

First, test the resistance in the coil. There are three contacts/pins, between the two outside pins there should be 0.8ohms.

Does it only happen at 140/150 in 5th? Can you pull to redline in 2nd or 3rd? Do know for a fact that your check engine light and ABS lights in the cluster work?

Does your ABS work? My car did this exact same thing when I had a broken ABS sensor. It had nothing to do with the coils/plugs, the ECU itself was cutting spark.
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinair
DO NOT DO THIS!!!! I dunno if you guys have ever seen a coil arc, but the last thing you want is for the coil to arc to your ear/head.

First, test the resistance in the coil. There are three contacts/pins, between the two outside pins there should be 0.8ohms.

Does it only happen at 140/150 in 5th? Can you pull to redline in 2nd or 3rd? Do know for a fact that your check engine light and ABS lights in the cluster work?

Does your ABS work? My car did this exact same thing when I had a broken ABS sensor. It had nothing to do with the coils/plugs, the ECU itself was cutting spark.
It does it all the time, at 140/150 is just where I first noticed it (so it must've failed on the highway.)

I haven't tried pulling to the redline. My CEL does not work (it should come on when a coil is disconnected shouln't it!?), and yes my ABS is showing up as ****ed (front speed sensors are broken or maybe dirty) but it's been like that since July.

Also, how can you say it's NOT a coil if when I disconnect coil 3 the car runs the same, but when I disconnect any other, it runs even worse?
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Old 01-10-2007, 09:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flav_cool
It does it all the time, at 140/150 is just where I first noticed it (so it must've failed on the highway.)

I haven't tried pulling to the redline. My CEL does not work (it should come on when a coil is disconnected shouln't it!?), and yes my ABS is showing up as ****ed (front speed sensors are broken or maybe dirty) but it's been like that since July.

Also, how can you say it's NOT a coil if when I disconnect coil 3 the car runs the same, but when I disconnect any other, it runs even worse?
I never said it's not a coil on your car. I said it wasn't a coil/spark issue on my car. Have the codes checked, that should be your first step. Having a messed up ABS can limit the cars speed though, at least it does on my car.
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Old 01-10-2007, 09:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinair
I never said it's not a coil on your car. I said it wasn't a coil/spark issue on my car. Have the codes checked, that should be your first step. Having a messed up ABS can limit the cars speed though, at least it does on my car.
What codes?

ABS codes have already been checked, and are showing front left and right speed sensors as faulty.
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