Originally Posted by windwagen
Is there LEDs on that thing? I don't see any....
the leds people talk about in these taillights are inside the assembly itself, unable to get to them, the leds have bad soldering and are the cause of this problem.... turns out today the light bulb error code came back on and i realised now after further extensive research that the soldering on the leds that are inside the assembly is the problem..
only way to fix it is to replace the fender portion of the taillight. no way around it.
I was happy the carrier case in the above picture seemed to fix my problem but today as i said the code came back. so my next step is to replace the fender portion of the light assembly.
for any1 wanting a good DIY to fix them you can follow this link.
copy and pasted from my buddys post"
I decided to just go for it and get the light apart, what I found was the middle LED on the same board as Davec03 had in the earlier post had a poor solder joint.
Just pushed down with a bit of pressure on the LED and hey-presto it all worked, I had also re-flowed all of the inter board ribbon cable joints with no success until I tried pushing on each LED.
Although hard to tell exactly it seemed to be pin 1 which had the dry joint (nearest pin to you in photo) all four pins re-flowed and now all OK and working.
The build quality does seem to be pretty good but clearly they did have a solder flow problem when they were assembled, it is likely done by flow machine rather than by hand.
To help anyone else who wants to have a go at theirs I have added a few extra photos to compliment Davec03's which were very helpful to get me started, also a few things I found whilst doing it.
Start to finish with an hour of fault finding and re-soldering this job took about 4 hours to do including removing the cluster, re-fitting it and sealing it, difficulty 6/10. You need a decent soldering iron with a fine tip, if you don't know about soldering either practice first and find out how to do it or don't attempt this.
To remove the cluster is really easy, 3 nuts to undo at the back of the light, undo the wiring connector pull the light cluster out. Once you have the light out use a decent work bench with a towel on it or something to stop scratching the light.
Remove the black plastic side cover by sliding a couple of screwdrivers down inside and easing the bottom clips away from the casing, you have now got access to the sides all the way round the light.
I went for the gently breaking the lens away from the case option, you need to put a wide blade flat screwdriver between the case and the lens, first I used a Stanley type blade to score all around the edge of the lens as close to the case as possible.
I spent at least 45 mins doing this and scored as deep as possible.
If you don't do this there is even more of a high chance you will crack the lens, take your time, if you do this part properly the prising it apart is so much easier.
Start on a long side and start to prise the lens away, work very slowly around the lens, the corners are the hardest, go very slowly here and score again with the blade if needed.
Once the lens is off don't worry about the rough edges you can sort that later.
Remove the bulb holder and then the black blue and yellow wires from holder at the back of the light, undo the red -black connector as well, remove the five screws from the back of the light. The indicator lens should now come out with a bit of persuading with the PC boards attached.
Unclip the PC boards and carefully remove from the reflector lens, the lower board has 3 plastic retaining clips, squeeze the tops with a small pair of pointed pliers and carefully ease the board off the clips.
Once out you can inspect for any obvious problems, I used a 9v battery connected to -neg to black wire and +pos to yellow wire, this is enough to test the LEDS and you can then go about gently pressing down on any LED's that aren't working.
If your problem is the same as mine was with gentle pressure the LEDS should start working, if not the you need to check ribbon cables for dry joints etc. If it's anything else you will have to just try trial and error to find it, a DVM is helpful but not essential.
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Assuming you find a dry joint on one of the LEDS you need to push down on it whilst you re-flow the connections, to dissipate heat away from the LED body I use a piece of aluminium foil folded over a few times and put between my finger and the component (LED) to take away the heat as it can be damaged. The LED's they use are good quality, it's just the soldering that isn't.
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Re-flow and hopefully that's it.
Re-assemble the boards, middle one first and gently clipping each one back into place. Re-check all is still working !
Re-assemble the reflector etc into the light, fit the 5 screws and put the wiring back in place, re-check all is still working....
Clean up the lens edge and case edge, it doesn't need to be perfect as you need to put a clear silicone bead around it afterwards and that seals and covers any rough edges.
I used a quick set epoxy glue to re-fit the lens, however I only put glue around about a third of the lens in total, just in enough places to securely hold it but making it possible to remove again if ever needed, a thin layer of epoxy glue will crack quite easily if you have to ever do this again and the silicone will peel away.
Once glued I then used the clear silicone sealer all around the edge and the gap between the lens and the case, smooth it with a wet finger to get a good finish, this fully waterproofs it and covers any rough edges.
When dry, re-fit the black plastic side cover, it just pushes down and clips into place (firm pressure required)
When finished you literally couldn't tell the light had been apart.
Re-fit the cluster back in the car, don't over tighten the three nuts, connect the harness connector and your done.
Hope this helps someone.