Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > General > General Discussion
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 06-25-2016, 02:43 PM   #1
skorpion
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 28
Rear right turn signal not working properly on 2009 BMW 323i



Hello!

The rear right turn signal on my 2009 BMW 323i is not working properly. The LEDs are considerably less bright than usual and they flicker. A warning light comes up on my dashboard almost every time I turn on the signal. The problem occurrs often but not all the time. The right front and side blinkers work fine albeit they flash faster than usual. Before I go on and spend 150 dollars on a new tail light I was wondering if there are other things I should look at? Also of note, my battery is now 7 years old and may have to be changed soon.

Any help is appreciated!

Thank you
skorpion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2016, 03:45 PM   #2
dbworld4k
Addict
 
dbworld4k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: YYZ / ORD
Posts: 7,702
Those taillights have the LED turn signals integrated as one unit. There isn't really any easier solution than to replace the whole assembly outright.
__________________
'12 M3 6MT Alpine White + Fox Red Extended | '09 328i 6MT Space Gray + Black

dbworld4k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2016, 03:46 PM   #3
Blackedout95
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,332
I suppose for giggles you could check the wiring/ground at the light
__________________
E46
Blackedout95 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2016, 05:03 PM   #4
Myworld
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: canada
Posts: 12
im having same problem in my 2010 e90.
let us know if you fixed your problem and how if / when you do
Myworld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 11:10 AM   #5
skorpion
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbworld4k View Post
Those taillights have the LED turn signals integrated as one unit. There isn't really any easier solution than to replace the whole assembly outright.
Unless the problem is not the light...
skorpion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 12:26 PM   #6
dbworld4k
Addict
 
dbworld4k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: YYZ / ORD
Posts: 7,702
Quote:
Originally Posted by skorpion View Post
Unless the problem is not the light...


It is. If the problem was with the FRM circuit, the lights wouldn't be dimmer than usual/flicker as per OP. They'd be outright not working.
__________________
'12 M3 6MT Alpine White + Fox Red Extended | '09 328i 6MT Space Gray + Black

dbworld4k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 01:12 PM   #7
Myworld
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: canada
Posts: 12
see the thing with mine is, my lights flicker on and off too when the signal light flashes FAST..
HOWEVER
when the signal light actualy works the lights show clear as day.
its a real frustraiting problem cause the signal light works normaly, then it starts flashing fast and the error code pops up.. then it all goes away and works normally again.. its like stuck in a loop of BROKEN and not BROKEN. really weird..


so far ive changed the bulbs all around now im going to look into the CARRIER case thats inside these light assemblies as this is what holds the bulbs and completes the circuitry. (these is usualy what goes bad im told @ BMW)
As per inside the housing itself is just plastic n reflectors i thought.. is it not?

im thinking its the bulb assembly carrier case, thats what im replacing today anyway.. its only 44$ at bmw. id try that first b4 replacing a 500$ unit. always better to go cheaper route first.

ill let u know how it turns out for me when i put it in later today

Last edited by Myworld; 06-28-2016 at 01:15 PM.
Myworld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 01:25 PM   #8
jabela
5th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,075
Very relevant video posted today.
https://youtu.be/HznA58bBvB8
__________________

2002 E46 325ci // 5spd // ISC N1 Coilovers
www.maisonapothecare.ca
jabela is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 01:25 PM   #9
Blackedout95
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,332
Can you swap carriers from L to R and see?
__________________
E46
Blackedout95 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 02:58 PM   #10
Myworld
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: canada
Posts: 12
so heres the update on what i did: I ordered the carrier case for my light "REAR RIGHT" i installed it today (30 mins ago) and i turned the signal light on for a solid 20 minutes and NO CODE was present and the flashing was normal, the lights are bright as day and everything is working fine. no leds are out and everythings is 100% again.

I will continue to monitor it over the next few days as this problem does sometimes have a habbit of working for a while then showing up out of the blue but for now it seems like its working flawlessly, because before right away i got the code and it would go from working to not working within seconds.

ill ulpload a picture of the part im talking about so you can know.

you dont even need to take the light off the car to replace this it just unplugs and clips right out and back in. 5 minutes or less DIY job.

Myworld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 03:25 PM   #11
dbworld4k
Addict
 
dbworld4k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: YYZ / ORD
Posts: 7,702
Awesome! That's very perplexing that it worked for you. I wonder if the old carrier was corroded at certain junctions to cause issues for the entire circuit. Do you have a pic of it?
__________________
'12 M3 6MT Alpine White + Fox Red Extended | '09 328i 6MT Space Gray + Black

dbworld4k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2016, 03:52 PM   #12
Myworld
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: canada
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbworld4k View Post
Awesome! That's very perplexing that it worked for you. I wonder if the old carrier was corroded at certain junctions to cause issues for the entire circuit. Do you have a pic of it?
the pic you see is the old one i took out. the new one i bought is in the car. to be honest though, the one i took out from my car looked brand new, and in better shape them the new one i bought. i think the dealer sold me a used one or something it had scratches on it, grease, stains, etc lol, but hey it works.

what really gets me though is there looks to be absolutly nothing wrong with the old one, it was exactly like the new one. i dont get it lol.

but hey it works, so i dont rly care lol.

i would try this before buying the new light as a whole, this part is only 44$ and comes WITH the two light bulbs which are ten bucks for two on their own.
Myworld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 10:36 PM   #13
windwagen
6th Gear Member
 
windwagen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 2,440
Is there LEDs on that thing? I don't see any....
__________________

E39 528i Touring - Unicorn Package (5 Spd M)
E39 M5 - for Sunny Days
windwagen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 12:13 AM   #14
Myworld
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: canada
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by windwagen View Post
Is there LEDs on that thing? I don't see any....
the leds people talk about in these taillights are inside the assembly itself, unable to get to them, the leds have bad soldering and are the cause of this problem.... turns out today the light bulb error code came back on and i realised now after further extensive research that the soldering on the leds that are inside the assembly is the problem..

only way to fix it is to replace the fender portion of the taillight. no way around it.

I was happy the carrier case in the above picture seemed to fix my problem but today as i said the code came back. so my next step is to replace the fender portion of the light assembly.

for any1 wanting a good DIY to fix them you can follow this link.

copy and pasted from my buddys post"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I decided to just go for it and get the light apart, what I found was the middle LED on the same board as Davec03 had in the earlier post had a poor solder joint.

Just pushed down with a bit of pressure on the LED and hey-presto it all worked, I had also re-flowed all of the inter board ribbon cable joints with no success until I tried pushing on each LED.

Although hard to tell exactly it seemed to be pin 1 which had the dry joint (nearest pin to you in photo) all four pins re-flowed and now all OK and working.

The build quality does seem to be pretty good but clearly they did have a solder flow problem when they were assembled, it is likely done by flow machine rather than by hand.

To help anyone else who wants to have a go at theirs I have added a few extra photos to compliment Davec03's which were very helpful to get me started, also a few things I found whilst doing it.

Start to finish with an hour of fault finding and re-soldering this job took about 4 hours to do including removing the cluster, re-fitting it and sealing it, difficulty 6/10. You need a decent soldering iron with a fine tip, if you don't know about soldering either practice first and find out how to do it or don't attempt this.

To remove the cluster is really easy, 3 nuts to undo at the back of the light, undo the wiring connector pull the light cluster out. Once you have the light out use a decent work bench with a towel on it or something to stop scratching the light.
Remove the black plastic side cover by sliding a couple of screwdrivers down inside and easing the bottom clips away from the casing, you have now got access to the sides all the way round the light.

20130803_125934.jpg20130803_133705.jpg

I went for the gently breaking the lens away from the case option, you need to put a wide blade flat screwdriver between the case and the lens, first I used a Stanley type blade to score all around the edge of the lens as close to the case as possible.
I spent at least 45 mins doing this and scored as deep as possible.
If you don't do this there is even more of a high chance you will crack the lens, take your time, if you do this part properly the prising it apart is so much easier.

Start on a long side and start to prise the lens away, work very slowly around the lens, the corners are the hardest, go very slowly here and score again with the blade if needed.

20130803_130004.jpg20130803_133415.jpg20130803_135 133.jpg

Once the lens is off don't worry about the rough edges you can sort that later.

Remove the bulb holder and then the black blue and yellow wires from holder at the back of the light, undo the red -black connector as well, remove the five screws from the back of the light. The indicator lens should now come out with a bit of persuading with the PC boards attached.

20130803_135723.jpg

Unclip the PC boards and carefully remove from the reflector lens, the lower board has 3 plastic retaining clips, squeeze the tops with a small pair of pointed pliers and carefully ease the board off the clips.

20130803_140044.jpg20130803_140057.jpg20130803_140 901.jpg

Once out you can inspect for any obvious problems, I used a 9v battery connected to -neg to black wire and +pos to yellow wire, this is enough to test the LEDS and you can then go about gently pressing down on any LED's that aren't working.
If your problem is the same as mine was with gentle pressure the LEDS should start working, if not the you need to check ribbon cables for dry joints etc. If it's anything else you will have to just try trial and error to find it, a DVM is helpful but not essential.

20130803_154107.jpg20130803_151303 - Copy.jpg

Assuming you find a dry joint on one of the LEDS you need to push down on it whilst you re-flow the connections, to dissipate heat away from the LED body I use a piece of aluminium foil folded over a few times and put between my finger and the component (LED) to take away the heat as it can be damaged. The LED's they use are good quality, it's just the soldering that isn't.

20130803_150633.jpg20130803_150931.jpg20130803_151 303 - Copy.jpg20130803_154239.jpg

Re-flow and hopefully that's it.

Re-assemble the boards, middle one first and gently clipping each one back into place. Re-check all is still working !

Re-assemble the reflector etc into the light, fit the 5 screws and put the wiring back in place, re-check all is still working....

Clean up the lens edge and case edge, it doesn't need to be perfect as you need to put a clear silicone bead around it afterwards and that seals and covers any rough edges.

I used a quick set epoxy glue to re-fit the lens, however I only put glue around about a third of the lens in total, just in enough places to securely hold it but making it possible to remove again if ever needed, a thin layer of epoxy glue will crack quite easily if you have to ever do this again and the silicone will peel away.
Once glued I then used the clear silicone sealer all around the edge and the gap between the lens and the case, smooth it with a wet finger to get a good finish, this fully waterproofs it and covers any rough edges.

20130803_154239.jpg20130803_182057.jpg20130803_182 646.jpg

When dry, re-fit the black plastic side cover, it just pushes down and clips into place (firm pressure required)
When finished you literally couldn't tell the light had been apart.

Re-fit the cluster back in the car, don't over tighten the three nuts, connect the harness connector and your done.

Hope this helps someone.
Myworld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 11:09 AM   #15
dbworld4k
Addict
 
dbworld4k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: YYZ / ORD
Posts: 7,702
By the way, I think there was a TSB on these tail lights due to early failures. Look into it, perhaps a dealer would be willing to help cover some of the cost.

Or buy a used one much cheaper.
__________________
'12 M3 6MT Alpine White + Fox Red Extended | '09 328i 6MT Space Gray + Black

dbworld4k is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Maxbimmer Copyright 2001 - 2015