Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > maXimum Tech > 3 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 08-07-2006, 01:26 PM   #1
Darkness95m3
6th Gear Member
 
Darkness95m3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,677
95M3 idling problem, need advice.

Have a problem with my M3.
The starter quit on me and I replaced it.
The car started fine with the new starter however it was idling @ 1250Rpm.
The car idled for about 5 minutes at this rpm and then all of a sudden revved to 3500 rpm
Until I shut it off. Error code read 1216 which meant throttle position sensor. I swapped it with my 540i since they were both the same part number.
The 540i started with no problems with the M3 throttle position sensor. The M3 with the 540i throttle position sensor had the same problem.

I removed the throttle body and intake again and checked for vacuum leaks did not findany. Re assembled the throttle this time code 1281 “Control Unit Memory Supply”. Tested the battery which seemed to be weak and bought a new one.

This time no code 1281 however the car idles @ 1250rpm and after a few minutes jumps up to 3500rpm.

Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
Darkness95m3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 01:43 PM   #2
BigD
the misanthropist
 
BigD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: a house
Posts: 6,168
Check the crank position and reference sensors, perhaps there's more than one. Some cars have it on the front hub, others take the reading off the flywheel. On the M30/20, for instance, the connectors for the CPS and reference sensor are on the starter bracket. Check for loose connections there or a hanging unplugged one. They probably didn't put one of them back after replacing the starter (doubt it's the CPS as usually that results in no starting, could be loose but that would result in horrible misfire, probably the reference [ie speed] sensor).
BigD is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 02:03 PM   #3
Acidblast
3rd Gear Member
 
Acidblast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 571
hmmmm that is very strange. maybe its the idle control sensor.
__________________
"Ooh, they have the internet on computers now" Homer J. Simpson
Acidblast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 02:08 PM   #4
propr'one
op sucks cock
 
propr'one's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: T.
Posts: 17,751
Send a message via MSN to propr'one
My car did something pretty similar, it was the throttle sticking. I doubt that's the explanation in your case but its worth a shot. Are both your temp sensors working? Part of your problem could be that the car is reading a cold start and thereby raising the idle RPM
__________________
I run a canadian HID kit company, if you have any questions about hid kits in canada or would like to check out our products please contact me here: http://absolutehid.ca

Hot: 2001 Estoril M RoadsterZCP 19's michelin supersports, ZHP knob, JL 8W3
Cold: 2002 TiAg M3 6mt ZCP 19's michelin supersports, deoranged, dechromed, led tails, ZHP knob, UUC SS v3, GROM, OEM 18's w310's,
fun: 2006 YZF-R6, black
propr'one is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 03:32 PM   #5
Darkness95m3
6th Gear Member
 
Darkness95m3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,677
Quote:
Originally Posted by propr'one
My car did something pretty similar, it was the throttle sticking. I doubt that's the explanation in your case but its worth a shot. Are both your temp sensors working? Part of your problem could be that the car is reading a cold start and thereby raising the idle RPM
I thought of that also, however it does not explain why the revs jump to 3500 after idling for 3 or 4 minutes.It does this all the time.

I have disconnected each sensor one at a time.
The moment I unplug one sensor the car starts to sputter or the rpm’s jump way up.

Conclusion that it is not a sensor but a vacuum leak somewhere, the question is where?
Darkness95m3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 08:07 PM   #6
propr'one
op sucks cock
 
propr'one's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: T.
Posts: 17,751
Send a message via MSN to propr'one
Are you running standalone or software for your FI setup?
__________________
I run a canadian HID kit company, if you have any questions about hid kits in canada or would like to check out our products please contact me here: http://absolutehid.ca

Hot: 2001 Estoril M RoadsterZCP 19's michelin supersports, ZHP knob, JL 8W3
Cold: 2002 TiAg M3 6mt ZCP 19's michelin supersports, deoranged, dechromed, led tails, ZHP knob, UUC SS v3, GROM, OEM 18's w310's,
fun: 2006 YZF-R6, black
propr'one is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 09:17 PM   #7
static
6th Gear Member
 
static's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,789
easiest step is to try a different ECU

also TB might stick, but i don't think it's the case here. I also once had tape obstructing the HFM air passage (like 50% of it) and this resulted in car violently revving up and down.

hope this helps
static is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2006, 10:33 PM   #8
thinair
moderationistismingly
 
thinair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bradford, ON
Posts: 8,794
Send a message via MSN to thinair
Don't forget to check the idle control valve, it might have gotten smacked around when pulling the starter out.
__________________
"Driving is like a narcotic, an addiction that can take over lives. It ruins people, breaks families apart, and even kills. It’s habit that needs to be fueled. Time, money, rationality, sweat, knuckle skin, and anyone who disapproves are of little importance to a driver, and are often overlooked. Hi, I’m Nelson, and I’m a drivaholic."
thinair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2006, 03:25 AM   #9
BigD
the misanthropist
 
BigD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: a house
Posts: 6,168
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinair
Don't forget to check the idle control valve, it might have gotten smacked around when pulling the starter out.
Can the ICV really make your car run at 3500 rpm, can it let enough air go by? It's just a small bypass. The 1250 is more typical of an ICV stuck/left open.

Actually, Darkness, does it rev to 3500 and stay there, or does it rev up and down? The fact that it changes with time tells me it's the temperature system. While the engine is in warmup mode, it's in closed loop operation - ignoring all temperature (except the coolant sensor) and emissions data. Check the airbox, make sure you connected everything back up, check real careful like. I know the S38 has an air temperature sensor on the airbox.

Also, before it revs up to 3500, rev it up a bit, does it run fine, doesn't choke or anything?
BigD is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2006, 09:16 AM   #10
Darkness95m3
6th Gear Member
 
Darkness95m3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,677
Quote:
Originally Posted by propr'one
Are you running standalone or software for your FI setup?
The software was developed for my vehicle.
Never had any issues with the software.
Darkness95m3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2006, 09:20 AM   #11
Darkness95m3
6th Gear Member
 
Darkness95m3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,677
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigD
Can the ICV really make your car run at 3500 rpm, can it let enough air go by? It's just a small bypass. The 1250 is more typical of an ICV stuck/left open.

Actually, Darkness, does it rev to 3500 and stay there, or does it rev up and down? The fact that it changes with time tells me it's the temperature system. While the engine is in warmup mode, it's in closed loop operation - ignoring all temperature (except the coolant sensor) and emissions data. Check the airbox, make sure you connected everything back up, check real careful like. I know the S38 has an air temperature sensor on the airbox.

Also, before it revs up to 3500, rev it up a bit, does it run fine, doesn't choke or anything?
The car runs fine, no hesitation or sputter.
It idles @1250rpm after running for a few minutes it just jumps to 3500rpm and stays there until I shut it down.
There is no check engine light at all until she starts to rev up to 3500rpm, then the check engine light comes on with code 1216 “Throttle Position Sensor”
Darkness95m3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2006, 09:35 PM   #12
BigD
the misanthropist
 
BigD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: a house
Posts: 6,168
Weird, almost sounds like you fried something in the computer. Are you positive your throttle is closing? Open the hood and move the butterfly. You should hear a click as it goes on/off idle, and same at wide open. A non-existent idle position of the TPS would explain what you're seeing. The jump is, as I said, the engine exiting warmup mode and listening to its sensors, and adjusting the mixture, resulting in higher rpm for the off-idle throttle position.
BigD is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2006, 09:31 AM   #13
Darkness95m3
6th Gear Member
 
Darkness95m3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,677
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigD
Weird, almost sounds like you fried something in the computer. Are you positive your throttle is closing? Open the hood and move the butterfly. You should hear a click as it goes on/off idle, and same at wide open. A non-existent idle position of the TPS would explain what you're seeing. The jump is, as I said, the engine exiting warmup mode and listening to its sensors, and adjusting the mixture, resulting in higher rpm for the off-idle throttle position.
I'm removing the manifold off again tonight to have another look.
Will have a closer look at the ICV motor.
The other weird that's coming on is that the ABS light is blinking when I pump the brakes.
I just love electronics.
Darkness95m3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2006, 07:40 PM   #14
bikemx423
Bayern Motor Werks
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Summit County/ Denver Colorado
Posts: 13
Send a message via AIM to bikemx423
Idle control valve. Take it apart... Check it, lube it all... Move it around... Put it all back together... Might help. If not, its the computer
bikemx423 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2006, 12:45 AM   #15
Proliphic
Trying to stay on 4wheels
 
Proliphic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 995
Send a message via MSN to Proliphic
take it to RMP..... problem solved.
__________________
1.
Granite Silver '92 325i
Mark D (93) Chip
Motronix CAI
(Magic Fairy Dust )
Strut Brace
APEX Sport Springs
18" M3 CSL look-a-like's
Clear Corners All Around
6000K HID's
Thinline Angel Eyes

2.
Black/Silver 2000 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R
8000K HID's
Clear Signals
(More to come)
Proliphic is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Maxbimmer Copyright 2001 - 2014