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Old 02-05-2006, 05:27 PM   #1
propr'one
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Help! (audio guru's check in please)

Alright, finally time for me to upgrade my sound system. I've done some reading on the subject, and so far here's what i understand.

im going to get 2 subs, probably either 10's or 12,s

the RMS wattage of these (lets say 250 each) = 500

i need an amp that will put out at least 500 watts then right? but what does bridging an amp do? how much wattage does the amp need to be rated at for me to use a bridged amp?

And what kind of capacitator do i need. Everyone seems to have 1 farad caps, should mine be 12 V or 24 V? and what does operating vs. surge power mean?

Also, im pretty handy with wood so i plan on custom manufacturing an enclosure for the two subs. There a write up anywhere for what dimensions this enclosure should be?

any general advice would be appreciated, thanks guys
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Last edited by propr'one; 02-05-2006 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 02-05-2006, 06:38 PM   #2
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the enclosure dimensions should come in the instrustions with the subs u buy. for the amp get something that has a 2channel for power 600 - up should be good as for all ur other q's i dont know
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Old 02-05-2006, 07:28 PM   #3
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the rms power should be 600 to 700 rms, 24 v for the cap because of volt spike and you go with 12 v cap you go BOOOM because of spiking.......
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:18 PM   #4
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Ok, definatly should've consulted with you guys before i did this, but then i wouldn't be rash and naive, which are my trademarks.

I bought two of these:
ROCKFORD FOSGATE P110S4 10" 150 watt RMS 300 watt peak power

So what kind of amp should I get? Im looking up instructions on what kind of box to build, but should it be vented or closed? what's the diff?


would:ROCKFORD PUNCH 500.2 AMP be a good buy? its 250 watts RMS at 2ohm on both channels. That enough?
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Last edited by propr'one; 02-05-2006 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:27 PM   #5
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Your Amp

You have 300 watts RMS total power for your subs. Amp decision is up to you really, and your budget. You want a monoblock, or an amp that is bridgable. You generally want an amp that overpowers your subs just a little bit, so it will never have to work above 80% capacity. Obviously don't use the amp to its full potential. Some subs are more difficult to drive as well. A quality amp will already be underrated so it will never be at 100% anyway. I'm using a JBL 600.1 to power my two 300W RMS subs. I never need to push it beyond 60%.

Subwoofer Enclosure

Sealed box. These are more tuned for people interested in Sound Quality. Very clean precise bass, great for jazzy tunes. However, these are also the least efficient in terms of loudness, and generally you lose some of the lower frequencies. This is also the easiest to design.

Ported box. These are a little more complicated, the port is used to help bring back those lower end frequencies that get lost in a sealed enclosure. They are also louder, and lend to more boomier bass, more for SPL and shaking the house down. Also useful if you have a sealed trunk and need help getting the bass into the cabin. Building the port properly is difficult, as the length and diameter of the port play a crucial role in tuning frequency reproduction. These are more efficient than sealed boxes, but again.. you lose a bit of sound quality / clarity.

Bandpass: The bandpass box can be designed any number of ways. The most efficient is the single reflex bandpass which does the best job of reproducing frequencies with the least negative effects. Because all the sound from the bandpass box comes from the port, tuning it properly is crucial. A poorly tuned bandpass box will result in much deeper frequency response, and very very boomy bass. Not to be desired at all. This is the most difficult to build properly, but also the most efficient. Also, when built properly it can be clean across the frequency range. However, it has the worst frequency delay of all the boxes, and since the subwoofer is almost completely sealed you can't hear if it is complaining from being pushed too hard, or hear any distortion. This means, you can push your sub too hard and you won't know until it dies. Kaboom.

Capacitor

A stiffening capacitor is generally not required, though is helpful to the health of your voltage regulator and any sensitive equipment you have in your vehicle to eliminate voltage spikes. It will not, however, help with lack of amperage in your system.. so if your alternator is over-worked, it will die regardless. General rule of thumb is .5 farad (500,000 microfarads) per 500watts RMS of power you require. The key term you're looking for is what the ESR is of the capacitor. (how quickly it can discharge). Overkilling with too many farads (i.e. a 4 farad cap) can be useless as it can't discharge quick enough to be useful, in which case 4 x 1 farad capacitors in series is more useful. Standard acceptable ESR for your capacitor is in the 0.0015 ohm range. You want a capacitor that can handle 24DC voltage, to stiffen out surge spikes.. especially useful when starting your car.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:33 PM   #6
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Thanks justin. My trunk isn't sealed, i have a ski sack opening. How does that affect the sound quality?

I'd like relativley loud bass, but i do listen to jazz in the car, so i think im probably going to go with a sealed box. If you dont mind my asking, which setup do you guys have?

also: should each of the channels on my amp be 300 watts? or is that total?
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proprone
Thanks justin. My trunk isn't sealed, i have a ski sack opening. How does that affect the sound quality?

I'd like relativley loud bass, but i do listen to jazz in the car, so i think im probably going to go with a sealed box. If you dont mind my asking, which setup do you guys have?

also: should each of the channels on my amp be 300 watts? or is that total?
with all that shit talking u listen to Jazz?.. hahahhhaha
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Old 02-05-2006, 10:08 PM   #8
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You want a total of 300watts for your amp.

I've had bandpass, ported, and sealed. Currently using a sealed box, and most happy with it. My subs already overpower my components, so I don't really need much more than that. However, your entire system is only 300watts... and you're using your ski-hole to port.. (as I do as well), I'd recommend going with a ported enclosure for your purposes.
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Old 02-05-2006, 10:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZiMMie
with all that shit talking u listen to Jazz?.. hahahhhaha
If you can't appreciate jazz i feel sorry for you

i listen to lots of different music, i have probably about 250 GB of mp3's, ranging from jazz to hiphop to classical to euro to indie



thanks for all your help guys!!!
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Old 02-05-2006, 10:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proprone
If you can't appreciate jazz i feel sorry for you

i listen to lots of different music, i have probably about 250 GB of mp3's, ranging from jazz to hiphop to classical to euro to indie



thanks for all your help guys!!!
it was joke. i listen all types of music too dependin on my mood. excluding hard ROCK.
its funny cause i can imagin rollin up to u pumpin u head to jazz @ a stop light.
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Old 02-06-2006, 01:20 AM   #11
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Im not going to make a new thread every time i have another audio related question, so i'll post them here if that's ok.

I reasearched the subs i bought, and for a ported box (what i plan to go with) the box should be 1.25 cubic feet. Since i have two, should i have one 2.5 foot enclosure? or is it better to have two 1.25 c/ft enclosures?

thanks
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proprone
Im not going to make a new thread every time i have another audio related question, so i'll post them here if that's ok.

I reasearched the subs i bought, and for a ported box (what i plan to go with) the box should be 1.25 cubic feet. Since i have two, should i have one 2.5 foot enclosure? or is it better to have two 1.25 c/ft enclosures?

thanks
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:03 PM   #13
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i have a question as well, actually several

#1 is there a way to use the ski opening without cutting/ripping it out?
#2 if i put an aftermarket deck do i have to rewire the speakers to get power from the amp or the deck?
#3 how powerfull is the amp that comes with the car?
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Old 02-07-2006, 06:43 PM   #14
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1) If your car has a ski sack, then no, you dont have to cut or rip anything, just open it. If you mean removing the bag, that's easy to do also.
2) No, not on e36's, on e30's you do though
3) I think it depends on year/premium audio or not, but i dont know the wattage. Its made by alpine, and its on the driver side of your trunk hidden by the carpet. check for yourself
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Old 02-07-2006, 07:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proprone
1) If your car has a ski sack, then no, you dont have to cut or rip anything, just open it. If you mean removing the bag, that's easy to do also.
2) No, not on e36's, on e30's you do though
3) I think it depends on year/premium audio or not, but i dont know the wattage. Its made by alpine, and its on the driver side of your trunk hidden by the carpet. check for yourself
thank you sir, is there a DIY to remove the thing? and i mean completely so there is a hole (for the sub)
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