Opinions on ball joints?

spooner_dee · 01-11-2006, 05:09 PM

Ok im going to be having my ball joints replaced soon, as ive posted b4 the driver side is shot so im going to replace them both. I see there are stock ones (with rubber) which fail after some miles, and i see there are metal ones which sellers like bavarian auto claims wont fail. Does anyone have experience with the metal ones. are they any good, will it make the ride a bit harder etc? what would you recomend? im kinda leaning towards stock ones, what are your opinions?

propr'one · 01-11-2006, 05:49 PM

From what i hear from very reputable sources, metal ones aren't worth it. Replacing ball joints isn't crazy labour intensive, go with the rubber ones and you'll have to replace them a little more often, instead of shelling out tons more cash for the metal ones, and still haveing to replace them almost as often

bmdbley'sBro · 01-11-2006, 07:18 PM

metal b.joints would harden up the ride alot, you'd think

M3ti Compact · 01-11-2006, 10:08 PM

The metal ones were only $15 more each...just do it. I couldn't feel that much of a difference in harshness...but hard to tell because the old ones were worn out and the ride was sloppy.

DINAN 3 · 01-12-2006, 01:47 AM

Metal ones rule and are the same price as OEM if you buy on eBay.
I picked up the complete control arm, as it was much easier to replace than individual ball joints. Once they're installed you'll probably never have to worry about them again. BTW.....Didn't notice any difference in harshness.

Remember to check the rest of your suspension, as you want to replace all the worn parts now and prevent paying for labour or an allignment twice.

Best,

Marv.

Justin e36 · 01-12-2006, 04:51 AM

Charlie replaced my "non-failing" metal ball joints back to OEM ones already. They didn't make the ride much harsher for me, did make the steering tighter. But they also didn't last as long as advertised. Everyone will always preach aftermarket over OEM when it comes to parts like this though. Brand new aftermarket ones cost what, $70? I just picked up a ball joint tool to do these myself too, so it's not a big deal anymore.

Here is a pic of the *actual balljoints* removed from my vehicle after only 7,000km. Mind you, my car never see's any roads harsher than the 401, and I never kick or abuse my car:

spooner_dee · 01-12-2006, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justin e36

Charlie replaced my "non-failing" metal ball joints back to OEM ones already. They didn't make the ride much harsher for me, did make the steering tighter. But they also didn't last as long as advertised. Everyone will always preach aftermarket over OEM when it comes to parts like this though. Brand new aftermarket ones cost what, $70? I just picked up a ball joint tool to do these myself too, so it's not a big deal anymore.

Here is a pic of the *actual balljoints* removed from my vehicle after only 7,000km. Mind you, my car never see's any roads harsher than the 401, and I never kick or abuse my car:

justin, thats a pic of the metal ones after only 7,000km? if so i dont think ill be getting them. The roads i travel on are sometimes pretty harsh and i drive ALOT i need somtin to last me atleast a few years.

Justin e36 · 01-12-2006, 07:04 AM

Yes, the one on the left, and middle are mine. The one on the right is someone else's, not sure how many km is on that one. It's around 7km on my ball joints.. maybe a little bit more. They look like they've been on the car for 15 years though.

ScotcH · 01-13-2006, 10:38 AM

The Meyle metal ones apparently are not hardened, and fail just as easily (if not more so) than the OE one. Stick with OEM, or Lemforder brand.

Justin e36 · 01-13-2006, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScotcH

The Meyle metal ones apparently are not hardened, and fail just as easily (if not more so) than the OE one. Stick with OEM, or Lemforder brand.

I don't trust Lemforder personally. While I don't know the quality of their ball joints, I do know that there is currently a class action suit against them. Out of 43 timing chains tested, all 43 snapped. Many causing collateral damage. One timing chain did manage to last 14,000km before snapping though...

uber e36 · 01-13-2006, 11:44 AM

Perhaps you can consider upgrade to OEM M3 ball joints...

325iSBimmer · 01-13-2006, 12:20 PM

what is the difference between the oem M3 and regular E36

Justin e36 · 01-13-2006, 12:27 PM

New style M3 ball joints are solid. IMO geoff gave the best advice right there. M3 ball joints are the way to go.

jeffrie · 01-13-2006, 12:39 PM

Rplaced my ball joint with a OEM from the stealers.
Their one of the weird dealer parts that don't cost much, it was only 36 dollars taxes included.

cisco911 · 01-13-2006, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffrie

Rplaced my ball joint with a OEM from the stealers.
Their one of the weird dealer parts that don't cost much, it was only 36 dollars taxes included.

They are dirt cheap because they sell so many of them...LOL. Balljoints are dirt cheap in general for E36.... E46 its the complete arm....not so cheap