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Old 11-27-2005, 12:26 PM   #16
Jordan
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The porting kit was $40 shipped or so.

I paid $50 for the bare spare head casting.

Getting new valve guides pressed in cost $35 for the guides, and $50 labor. (I had the guides replaced because this head had bent valves, and tweeked the guides a bit)

I expect resurfacing and 3 angle grind to be around $200.

I already have a 274/274 11.5mm Shrick cam in my current head, it will be swapped over.
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Old 11-27-2005, 04:55 PM   #17
paul christians
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It can cast about $2 or 3000 buck for everything..
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan
Everyone seems to be interested as I'm constantly asked about what I'm doing with it and for pictures etc.

I haven't really showed much of it till now.

What I've done:

Intake ports enlarged slightly to gasket size.
Intake ports heavily ported.
Intake valve guides reduced/smoothed.
Intake bowls heavily worked and smoothed.
Intake valve guide transition knifed.

Exhaust ports greatly enlarged to match gasket size.
Exhaust ports heavily ported.
Exhaust valve guides reduced/smoothed.
Exhaust bowls heavily worked and smoothed.

Combustion chambers recontoured/detextured.
Combustion chamber flycut smooth transitioned.
Combustion chamber removed valve shrouding.

Whats still left to be done:

Combustion chambers polished to a mirror finish.
Exhaust ports minor touchups.
3 angle valve grind.
Resurface sealing surface of head.
Assemble and install!

Head, intake ports:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/112505-001.jpg

Head, exhaust ports:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/112505-002.jpg

Intake port, closeup:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/112505-003.jpg

Exhaust port, closeup:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/112505-004.jpg

Chamber close up:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/CC.jpg

Also, here is a stock 885 chamber to compare:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/CCREF.jpg

Headers/catless midpipes:
http://jordan.lodac.com/Images/Headers.jpg

I will be installing this with my ceramic coated headers, catless midpipes, and with a oil seperation system to keep oily crankcase vapors from entering the intake. I will be installing my rocker arms, rocker shafts, and cam from my current head into this one. Valves, springs, retainers, keepers, etc will be OEM.
Hey Jordan nice work.
Question about the work in the chambers....have you cc all the chambers to see if there were any differences..
From the pictures, you have done work to the chambers which will result in increasing chamber volume"lower compression ratio".

I did similar work to one of the 885 i head and on the intake ports i did the grinding but i did not polish them...Test have been made and by not leaving the intake ports polished, the mixture of air and fuel will flow alot better.

And the opposite is best on the exhaust and chambers...
Nice Work, Keep it up....

I enjoy looking at someone else work that knows there stuff..

SLy
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Old 11-28-2005, 02:56 PM   #19
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The intake ports are not polished, they are still rough with grinding lines, and are finished to a dull luster with a crossbuff. basicly a 3M scuffpad on a rotory attachment.

Chambers have been cc'd are are all fine, The compression ratio will drop from 10.2 down to MAYBE 10.15 with the small amount of material removed.
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:00 PM   #20
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just use a thinner head gasket and/or higher compression pistons to bump up the compression ratio. It will probably make nice power around 11.0:1

Hold on, isn't stock 9.5:1? did you increase yours already?

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Old 11-28-2005, 03:14 PM   #21
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NO 8.8 to 1 for an 87, but for JORDAN's car maybe highter...
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:10 PM   #22
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Stock CR is 8.8:1 for a 325i

My CR is 10.2:1.

11:1 would be stupid on a m20. No knock sensors and only 93 octane fuel here.

I already run the thicker headgasket to drop my compression down to 10.2:1.
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Old 11-29-2005, 12:37 AM   #23
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nice work

nice work on the cyl head jordan
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Old 11-30-2005, 02:37 AM   #24
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retard, have you ask terry who he uses, he uses brooks elliot for machine work, i use him too. he is accually right down the street from you and enlarging vale sizes should only be a couple of dollars, not that much, and enlarging like that, you can accually hurt air flow, ask any machinist, you use a flow bench and see what happens, more often than not you hurt air flow going to the gaskets, you go to...aaaaaa....i forgot there name, but brooks uses some one of 290 i think, they got a flow bench, and they can help you out, i just hope you didnt hinder performance. i had brooks totally rework many heads and even on my land cruiser went to +10mm and +5mm valves and a whole crap load of other work and it barely got over 400usd, and i have run it for over 6 years, plus i am fixing to take him +2mm valves for the bimmer and he said he does them all the time. not a big deal, not expensive, and the valve are really cheap, if your considering them i know a line on good titainium and ss valves, just hit me up or talk to brooks. or terry, he will tell you...what is his number....i think it is 512-442-5454. ask for brook elliot, accually he will be the one who answers the phone.


but dont start grinding you can hurt the performance fast believe it or not. and also a slight rough texture is a lot better than smooth....oh well i am sure master mechanic already knew this, but i just hope you didnt spend that much time and them messin' it up.
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Old 11-30-2005, 02:47 AM   #25
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tomarrow i will get the site for the how much you gain in inlarging valves site, really you gain top end and loose a crap load on the bottom, and porting with stock valves is bad for the drop in pressure that you get from enlarging the pipes before the valve and getting the sudden quick rush at the end at the valve, think a deep wide river bottle necking into a shallow thin stream.

you want a smooth flowing transition, why you need a flow bench, because you can jack it up with what looks like it should work......

but if your cam and all that is set up for top end you got it made, but drivability really goes down hill. i mean how often are you above 4500?

also are you going to be able to pass the sniffer tests? i would like to know cause i have a bunch of stuff that i was going to put on my car and since sept have reallyreconsidered weather or not to even do it, i all ready took out my cat and it didnt pass and had to put it back in. but i have 5 differ cams and four different engines but i have a stock engine that i can swap in and get inspected and swap right back out.

it really only takes about 3 hours, tranny and all, one chunk.
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:24 AM   #26
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Brooks is my machinist, and he already complimented me on my work.

You can't go much larger on the intake valve because there simply is not room.
The gains with plus size valves are also (none) I've seen flowbench number on the same m20 head casting, with +1 and +2 valves.
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:55 AM   #27
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Hey Jordan, I've got pretty much the exact same done to my head, except for the 3 angle valve grind.

Just one thing... I'm wondering I'm running a 288 288 11.1mm lift Shrick cam... any reason why u went with that duration ?

Over here our 325iS 2.7lt's ran on 276 276 Alpina Cam... not sure of the lift.

Also I'm running a higher CR than u 10.8:1 also bigger pistons and stroke... but I'm interested in the he head
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Old 12-03-2005, 11:39 PM   #28
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I installed the head today! Assembled what I could on it at home last night, then drive all my parts into work and got to it! I was at it from 10am-8pm today. Figure I have a few more hours left tomorrow reconnecting wires, and plumbing etc.

Some pictures:

Valve train hardware all neatly laid out.

Head casting with valves partially installed.

Closeup of valve stem, guide, and stem seal.

Exhaust port closeup, closed valve.

Intake port closeup, closed valve.

Bottom of head, all valves installed.

Gay head, gay exhaust manifolds.. general mess.

Carbonated mess. This is why you should install a catch can or some sort of oil seperator the first time!

Closeup of carbon coated JE Forged Piston.

Mmm cleaned up to an acceptable state.

Head, intake manifold, ready to "drop on"

Breathe deep baby. Breath deep.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:00 AM   #29
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where did you get your head gasket from? im having trouble finding thicker/stronger ones?
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:03 AM   #30
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It is a Victor Reinz headgasket, +0.3mm thicker then stock. You can get it at the dealer, or any other retail parts place.
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