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Old 12-05-2005, 09:31 PM   #31
///MP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoff@bmw
Moving to the rear passenger, I got the caliper off, but when trying to take the other piece off the bolt that was stuck in my tool previously is stripped on this side (both bolts). Any suggestions on what tool to use? It's supposed to be a 16mm, but that didn't catch at all. I went to a 15mm which held it a bit, but the bolt wouldn't move and the wrench still slowly slid around the bolt...
Which part are you talking about? Point it out on the diagram:



Quote:
Originally Posted by geoff@bmw
Went up to the front and BOTH front wheels are stuck on! I tried pulling/kicking/etc and nothing worked... I also put a 2x4 behind the wheel and tried hammering it out... Any thoughts on how to free a stuck wheel when the car is just up on one jackstand?
I usually give it a couple swift kicks and it comes off. It seems your wheels are realy caked on there. Pop the centre caps and spray some penetrating oil in there -- between the wheel and the hub-centre. Let it sit for a few hours and then try again. This may do nothing, but it's worth a try. Also, try doing a search on Max or bimmerforums.com for "stuck wheel", I'm sure some people have a good method for this kind of thing.

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Old 12-06-2005, 11:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///MP
Which part are you talking about?
Hey,

It is #4.

-Geoff

edit: see the attached pics for the stripping of the bolt
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Last edited by uber e36; 12-06-2005 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:33 PM   #33
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attached:
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File Type: jpg bolt2.jpg (198.5 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg bolt.jpg (191.7 KB, 37 views)
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:39 PM   #34
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take off #8 first then #4 if you want to powdercoat the calliper carier piece too..

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Old 12-06-2005, 02:43 PM   #35
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Taking off #8 allowed me to remove the caliper (#1). but now I want to remove #2, which requires me to undo wrench out #4. But #4 is stripping...
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:49 PM   #36
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What kind of wrench did you use to strip #4? Did you use a ratchet and a socket? or a pry bar and a socket?

Don't use open wrench on bolts, else they strip. I have special sockets for stripped bolts
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:52 PM   #37
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like Bruno said, you want to use a socket on bolts, not a wrench.

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Old 12-06-2005, 04:03 PM   #38
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I used a 16mm socket first, but it was so loose and didn't grab at all... the only thing else I had left was wrenchs

I'm going to see if my buddy who's a BMW tech can lend me a socket that will fit a stripped bolt. If not, I might be owing Bruno a favour for the use of his tool
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Old 12-06-2005, 05:01 PM   #39
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you should have coated that thing in wd40 before you removed it.. or hammered it a bit to loosen the rust. Try some WD40, then use the stripped bolt remover..

or a propane torch... make sure you pick up a replacement bolt...
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirek
you should have coated that thing in wd40 before you removed it.. or hammered it a bit to loosen the rust. Try some WD40, then use the stripped bolt remover..

or a propane torch... make sure you pick up a replacement bolt...
^^^ Yes! Hammer that thing a few times then get the mounting ears on the spindle nice and toasty with a torch (I prefer oxy-acetelyne (it heats up much faster) but I suppose hauling those tanks around wouldn't be much fun -- just go with propane). And of course, do this with the caliper removed and the brake line far away from the flame.

MP

Oh, and sockets >>> open ended wrenches. Always use a 6-point socket whenever you can.

Last edited by ///MP; 12-06-2005 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:59 PM   #41
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The purpose of the torch is to heat it and therfore make it easier to spin?

-geoff
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Old 12-07-2005, 03:56 PM   #42
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torch burns off the rust
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Old 12-07-2005, 05:16 PM   #43
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I've used our propane/oxygen and acetylene/oxygen many times, I've never seen it burn off rust. To the best of my knowledge it's all about the metal expanding ever so slightly and sorta unsticking itself from the other object.

I've been wrong before, that is just what i've been told.
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Old 12-07-2005, 06:26 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinair
I've used our propane/oxygen and acetylene/oxygen many times, I've never seen it burn off rust. To the best of my knowledge it's all about the metal expanding ever so slightly and sorta unsticking itself from the other object.

I've been wrong before, that is just what i've been told.
That's right. It's thermal expansion of the threaded hole. When you heat metal it expands. If you heat metal with a hole in it, the hole actually gets bigger. That's why you always heat the hole, not the bolt.

On a general note: be carefull when heating aluminum parts with an Oxy-Acet torch. I've actually melted aluminum parts this way. And you don't even know you're melting anything it until it's too late!

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Old 12-07-2005, 06:31 PM   #45
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that's correct, you're actually right, it's to expand it and break the rust bond. So heat up only the bolt to a nice red, not the carrier
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