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Old 11-15-2005, 08:45 AM   #16
JazzM
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rebuilding calipers is quite easy (I did that on my M3 calipers) as long as you have all the new gaskets (in essence that's all you're doing - changing gaskets)

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/caliper.htm

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Old 11-15-2005, 09:24 AM   #17
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Eurostyle - can you post this shop's info?

I wonder if they would clean it up and give it back to me without putting the new seals etc in... then I can get it powdercoated... then give it back to them to put the new seals, etc. in?
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Old 11-15-2005, 09:28 AM   #18
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UPDATE:
Rob @ R & M Metal Colouring says it will be ballpark $80 total to powdercoat 4 calipers black. I said I also wanted to powdercoat the caliper spring clip red and he said maybe $20 extra... I asked about sandblasting and he said he has a friend that he subs it out to and it might be about $20 to sandblast.

So basically it's going to be ~$120 to have the calipers sandblasted and powdercoated. I'll just have to rebuild the seals, etc myself (JazzM posted the DIY so it should be ok)

Anyone else interested?
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Old 11-15-2005, 10:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzM
Both my cars have torx... the z3 with M3 front brakes and the e30. Axxe was very suprised by that too..

T.
Wow. Sorry to doubt you Tom. Torx on brake parts is a very General Motors thing to do. Surprising indeed!

Geoff: If you're around the west end (Etobicoke), I can take apart the calipers for you. It'll take all of 30 seconds. PM me if interested.

MP
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:39 AM   #20
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///MP - Thanks. I live in the East End, but my car is stored up near Barrie for the winter

I'm pretty confident in removing the calipers from all the reading i've been doing. I'm just not sure how I can keep the car properly jacked for a few weeks while the wheels are off. I know you're supposed to stand them from under the suspension, but not sure where...
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:53 AM   #21
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geoff, do you want to borrow my rims for the winter? if you want something to put the car on you can use them the rubber is gone anyways.

I can't guarantee it will be for the WHOLE winter, i may be moving back to BC in march or april.
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Old 11-15-2005, 12:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoff@bmw
I'm just not sure how I can keep the car properly jacked for a few weeks while the wheels are off. I know you're supposed to stand them from under the suspension, but not sure where...
Just place the jack-stands under the jack points (y'know, where those rubber pucks are supposed to be located under the car). Their location corresponds with the holes in your side skirts. Your car will be fine like that for a couple weeks...or just use Mirek's rims.

I took some pics last time I rebuilt my calipers. I'll post them up soon...it should help you out with the rebuild.

MP
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Old 11-15-2005, 12:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///MP
Just place the jack-stands under the jack points (y'know, where those rubber pucks are supposed to be located under the car). Their location corresponds with the holes in your side skirts. Your car will be fine like that for a couple weeks...or just use Mirek's rims.

I took some pics last time I rebuilt my calipers. I'll post them up soon...it should help you out with the rebuild.

MP
the only problem is that the suspension should have pressure put down on it. Put the car on wood or you can borrow my rubber
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Old 11-15-2005, 12:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mirek
the only problem is that the suspension should have pressure put down on it. Put the car on wood or you can borrow my rubber
If it was the whole winter I agree. But it's only going to be a couple weeks. I wouldn't worry about it really. Plus, this way it forces to Geoff to finish the project quickly instead of procrastinating.

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Old 11-15-2005, 12:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///MP
If it was the whole winter I agree. But it's only going to be a couple weeks. I wouldn't worry about it really. Plus, this way it forces to Geoff to finish the project quickly instead of procrastinating.

MP
ah, i thought he was storing the car for the whole winter
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Old 11-15-2005, 01:47 PM   #26
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I am storing it for the whole winter, but it will only be off it's wheels while the calipers are being rebuilt and sandblasted.

I'm going to take mirek up on his offer though, because it will save the new tires I bought this year from possible flats spots.



///MP - pics would be great, but no rush - I won't be doing this for 2-3 weeks
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Old 11-15-2005, 06:23 PM   #27
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Here's the style i'm going for:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010008.JPG (87.6 KB, 82 views)
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Old 12-04-2005, 11:58 AM   #28
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well, had troubles the first attempt (couldn't get at one of the spots to undo the caliper, so today i try again with the assistance of a friend and some tools my BMW Tech friend let me borrow... wish me luck!
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Old 12-04-2005, 02:37 PM   #29
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Hey Geoff, here's those pics I promised you (I hope it's not too late!). I took these while rebuilding my ///M calipers, but the process should be the same.

Remove caliper, drain it (through the brake line hole) and place "upside down" on table. Place piece of wood (good wood: 1/2" thick plywood, not some crap particle board!) as shown. KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THE WAY!!! Using a blow gun (set it low, 30-45 psi should work) pop that piston out of there. Wear safety glasses and please, keep your hands out of there. That piston shoots out like a bullet!


Then remove the inner O-ring:


And then you're going off to powdercoating. When it comes time to reassemble do the following:

Inspect the piston and clean it (I buffed mine) so it's nice and shiny!


Buy the rebuild kit. I could only find mine at the dealer$hip, but you might have better luck at an auto parts store.


Install the inner o-ring into the caliper and then coat it with new brake fluid. You need to coat (sparingly though) the shiny surface of the piston in clean brake fluid so it'll slide on and not catch on the ring or boot. Now here comes the fun part! You also need to install the edge of the boot into the large groove in the caliper. Here's a trick I use: stretch out the boot like so (see pic) and secure it with zip ties (this step will save you much frustration!):


Now with a small screwdriver (do not puncture boot!) seat the boot into the groove. It's important that the boot be fully seated. The previous owner had the calipers painted and they didn't put the boot on properly, so water got inside and corroded the caliper, and that's why I had to rebuild them...both sides! Give the piston a little tug to make sure the boot is seated.


Then cut the zip-ties and push the piston straight down. As you push, the boot will catch the groove in the piston and flip the right way. Then you're done.


And don't forget to bleed the brakes when you put them back on the car!

MP
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Old 12-05-2005, 09:17 AM   #30
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///MP - thanks!

Well I started with the rear drivers side and with a bit of a roadblock (having one of the bolts get stuck in my tool) managed to get everything off.

Moving to the rear passenger, I got the caliper off, but when trying to take the other piece off the bolt that was stuck in my tool previously is stripped on this side (both bolts). Any suggestions on what tool to use? It's supposed to be a 16mm, but that didn't catch at all. I went to a 15mm which held it a bit, but the bolt wouldn't move and the wrench still slowly slid around the bolt...

Went up to the front and BOTH front wheels are stuck on! I tried pulling/kicking/etc and nothing worked... I also put a 2x4 behind the wheel and tried hammering it out... Any thoughts on how to free a stuck wheel when the car is just up on one jackstand?

Thanks,

-Geoff
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