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Old 02-09-2004, 07:38 AM   #1
fuzion
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hello all, new to the forum need some help. Turbo E30 and have issues.

Hello all, back many months ago i posted(my initial posts actually) that i had started a turbo build on a 86 325e.

Well after many months of hell, the car is running, and strong for the most part, however i need some help from those who have done this sort of thing.

I was having blow by issues with the crankcase pressurizing. The breather line that goes bwtn the valve cover and the throttle body kept coming off, so i plugged the TB bosse and installed a catch can that would safely vent the crankcase to the atmosphere, without theoretically causing any vaccum leaks.

Well with the hoses clamped on tight and set up so the V/C vents through the catch can and out, i have stupid amounts of smoke existing the exhaust, to the point where i couldnt see cars behind me.....ok so what do i do?

I went to a gas station, pulled the clamp off the hose going to the valve cover and took the breater hose off, essentially creating a huge vaccum leak and allowing the crank case to vent to atmoshere while under boost.

Well i did this and it runs great, pulls stronger than with the car running through the catch can....this makes no sense to me.

As well, when the car came back to me originally a few days ago, i saw that breather line had slipped off the valve cover, telling me that the crankcase was still pressurizing under boost. I slid the line back on, played with the AFM adjustment and cold start injector and all was good.


Now my concern is this. Tomorrow morning when my buddy goes to start the car in the morning, breather line off, im *assuming* the car is gonna idle poorly and initally run like shit, but it will not smoke. The alternative to hook the line up and and create smoke screens all day.....

I dont know what to do.... if anyone knows what could be the potential problem, pls post up and help a fellow euro tuner.



Jas
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Old 02-09-2004, 07:38 AM   #2
fuzion
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here are 2 pics of the car for ya'll. Sry the first one is a little blurred.



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Old 02-09-2004, 05:00 PM   #3
notmpowered
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I'm sorry I can't answer your turbo question, but very nice car. Ask diegom6, he knows a lot about turbos.
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Old 02-09-2004, 07:59 PM   #4
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sleeper......
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Old 02-09-2004, 08:20 PM   #5
davide30
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i have turbo project me to

ok , i would like to know how many hp and PSI do you do with your turbo , with IC or not.

thank you
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Old 02-09-2004, 09:50 PM   #6
BladeRunner
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davide30 the trim around your rear windshield is that new or redone? i'm asking because my trim is comming off and the little metal piece, like on yours, on mine is a little rusted. your tint looks just like mine.
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Old 02-09-2004, 10:01 PM   #7
fuzion
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turbo setup includes.

Factory ETA engine

Rebuilt Garett T3 Turbo Trim .48 Compressor .60 Turbine(ill have to double check this when i get home, i cant remember)
Starion Front Mount Intercooler
2.5" T304 Stainless Steel Tig Welded Charge Pipes
Blitz Dual Drive BOV
Turbonetics Deltagate II Wastegate
Turbonetics MBC
3" stainless Downpipe going to a 2.25" custom exhaust(going to 3" stainless in the summer)
19lbs mustang injectors
12:1 Vortech FMU

Currently running 5psi.
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Old 02-09-2004, 11:51 PM   #8
taadow
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Your problem is that you have a 325e 2.7 and you need the head from a 325i 2.5 88-91 you will need to have the wires and the ecu from the 325i for this to work you will need to change the head gasket to the thicker gasket....you will also need to change you fuel system to a stand alone system and a bigger fuel pump...if you are going to change you fuel injectors dont use ford mustang injectors you will want to have a injector that will spray fuel not pore fuel into the block and if you are using a oil cooled turbo use the oil cooler set up from the 325i T off the line so your oil will go back into the block.
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Old 02-10-2004, 12:24 AM   #9
fuzion
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Quote:
Originally posted by taadow
Your problem is that you have a 325e 2.7 and you need the head from a 325i 2.5 88-91 you will need to have the wires and the ecu from the 325i for this to work you will need to change the head gasket to the thicker gasket....you will also need to change you fuel system to a stand alone system and a bigger fuel pump...if you are going to change you fuel injectors dont use ford mustang injectors you will want to have a injector that will spray fuel not pore fuel into the block and if you are using a oil cooled turbo use the oil cooler set up from the 325i T off the line so your oil will go back into the block.

um.....no.

1) the turbocharger is a oil/water cooled turbo. The feed or the pressure is coming off of a "T" in from the Oil pressure sending unit. The return is going to the oil pan via a place on the pan where i had 5/8" drain tube welded on so the oil has a place to return quickly and safely. I could potentially benefit from an oil cooler, but it does not seem to be a necessity.

2) why do i NEED to go the IS head? is there any particular reason, along with the ECM? The 9:1 compression engine pulls just fine and has no actual running issues other than the blowby, which is the problem. Telling me to swap heads and ECM is not helping me solve the prob. With the ETA head and a 3mm thicker head gasket that is available for the engine, compression should drop to around what the IS engines run and i shouldnt have to worry.

3) The injectors are a 19lb bosch injector, identical to the 15lb injectors that i pulled out of the car. The only difference is that of the higher flow rate the so it can feed the engine it needs.

4) standalone fuel management eh? Really since the stock pump is more than enough fuel at 5psi. With a secondary pump, the car was getting too much fuel and it was bogging and back feeding raw fuel into the charge pipes. Fuel is not an issue.
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Old 02-10-2004, 01:08 AM   #10
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Well come a board "again" I had/still have in minnor proportion the same problem.

looks like we aren't the only ones... look Other similar Case

and read also the 4 page.

I sealed the vaccum valve cover and TB.. I took the pipe that goes from the intake manifold to the blcok, I sealed the top part and made a "T" in the pipe, so the vapor fumes only(sopously) in to the sucker turbo pipe...but I still getting a bit of oil, always I smell burned oil
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:14 AM   #11
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I would put a mini K&N filter on the valve cover and on the crankcase, plug the hole in the intake manifold and everything should work fine. Think you already might know this but the pressure building up in your head is probably causing the smoke since the oil able to pass through the valve seals.

Hope this helps and hope I'm not repeating something you already know

Eric
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Old 02-10-2004, 02:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by theo325
I would put a mini K&N filter on the valve cover and on the crankcase, plug the hole in the intake manifold and everything should work fine. Think you already might know this but the pressure building up in your head is probably causing the smoke since the oil able to pass through the valve seals.

Hope this helps and hope I'm not repeating something you already know

Eric
thanks anyway! your help counts, but if I ever put a mini K$N filter in the valve cover for breathing....it will spray the oil in all the engine bay...won't work, I will add again my device that separates the vapor fumes from oil.
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:18 PM   #13
fuzion
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diegom6:

Are you talking about the springloaded pipe that is on the driver side of the car, just in front and to the left of the power steering resevoir that is situated bwtn the oil pan(or block, just going off memory) and to the intake?

If so, you want me to plug the top part of that pipe, drill, and well a T junction to that pipe and run it to the compressor side of the turbo? Basically bwtn the Air Filter and compressor wheel?

If by reading your post, that is what helps cure the prob, ill get on that during my reading break from school.

As well, i see that you plugged both the TB and Valve Cover vac ports, while i have my TB blocked and my Valve cover going to a oil catch can and then allowing the catch can to vent. I will post a picture when i get a chance.

thx again guys, you guys are a really a huge help!
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by fuzion
diegom6:

Are you talking about the springloaded pipe that is on the driver side of the car, just in front and to the left of the power steering resevoir that is situated bwtn the oil pan(or block, just going off memory) and to the intake?

If so, you want me to plug the top part of that pipe, drill, and well a T junction to that pipe and run it to the compressor side of the turbo? Basically bwtn the Air Filter and compressor wheel?

If by reading your post, that is what helps cure the prob, ill get on that during my reading break from school.

As well, i see that you plugged both the TB and Valve Cover vac ports, while i have my TB blocked and my Valve cover going to a oil catch can and then allowing the catch can to vent. I will post a picture when i get a chance.

thx again guys, you guys are a really a huge help!
Yes , you are correct, it's the springload pipe...if you see carefully in my sig you will notice in the filter pipe is conected or welded a small pipe, that is where the vaccum it's produced to pull the vapor fumes from the springloaded pipe.

But still I have a bit of problem I will see how can I fix it soon.

I tapped at first the TB and was runing the vaccum from the valve cover , but I was getting much oil from, I don't recomend you that way..
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:58 PM   #15
fuzion
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awesome, well i turns out i already have a port in my filter housing, so ill just screw in a large barb fitting into there and run the line back to the spring pipe.

Can that pipe be removed with out removing the intake?
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