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Old 01-31-2004, 01:03 AM   #1
snd84318i
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oil on spark plug ?

i did a plug change . awhileback and noticed pil on the plug. the car has only 120000 miles on it . i was thinking of doing a rebuild this year (i hope) . i wanted to know if there is damage to the motor from this . i need the car . its my only car now and i need to drive it . can this problem be fixed . is it a high or low cost fix. i noticed this only the rear two plugs have oil on them the front two had no oil on them .thanks for any help guys
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Old 01-31-2004, 01:59 AM   #2
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ALL YOU NEED:

http://www.xs4all.nl/~ekieboom/spit/plugs.html
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:26 PM   #3
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Oil Fouling
Wet deposits of oil. Caused by worn bores, pistong rings or valve guides. Sometimes happens briefly during running-in period
what do i need to do to fix this . does the motor need to be turn out completely for this ? can i do this myself or best left to the pros ?
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:29 PM   #4
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All out engine rebuild is ALWAYS best left to pros... If you have to ask the question that is.
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Old 01-31-2004, 02:58 PM   #5
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i know i will do that in time but i just want to know if im damaging the motor if i would to keep driving it the way it is ? can i just fix the problem without the rebuild ?
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:20 PM   #6
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i noticed a bit of oil on one of the plugs last time i changed them too, but ive just been driving it like this anyways... is it bad for the car?
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:47 PM   #7
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dude take if from me don't rebuild that motor i did mine this summer and well it was way to expensive just for the old 4 cyclinder m10 engine. if i was you i would take a 325is motor and rebuild that and do the swap . cause rebuilding the engine cost me like 5 grand that is with labor and parts
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:42 PM   #8
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you probably dont know what you are doing so let me help. go to autozone and by a cheap compression tester. it doesnt matter that its cheap, because you are using the same gauge for all the cylinders. also buy some marvel mystry oil. and a seringe (spelling). take out your plugs and do a compression test, write down your results. now take the seringe and get a little bit of oil (marvel) and put it in the cylinder, test that cylinder again. repeat this with each cylinder, make sure you use the same amount of oil per cylinder (only use a little bit, i use and oil can like in wizard of oz for the tin man and just squirt it two times [maybe 50cc's?]). now the reading should be higher than the dry cylinders, if not then you know that the valve stem seals or guides are worn and all you have to do is rebuild the head. if the rings are bad the compression will not be so accurate and will need to have a leak down test preformed. the rings mean you have to rebuild the bottom end. hope this helps. this is the cheapest way to find out, so if you have a friend with the gauge you wont have to buy one, they are only 10 bucks at autozone. you can buy a good one like the one i have for 185 bucks but that is only because i am a mechanic and i use it all the time and need one that can be accurate over and over again. it is also used for other things so i recomend the cheap stuff because you arent going to need it as often.
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:44 PM   #9
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if the rings are bad the compression will not be so accurate and will need to have a leak down test preformed.

should read:

if the rings are bad the compression TEST will not be so accurate and will need to have a leak down test preformed.
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Old 02-01-2004, 07:04 PM   #10
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yes but even if the top end or bottom end have to be rebuilt why not when your in the process rebuild the whole motor if you going to do half any way. also like i stated before waste of money to rebuild the m10 84 motor go for something newer and bigger
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Old 02-02-2004, 03:09 AM   #11
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^^^^thanks but i like the m10 i think if i would to swap it out for anything it would be for a v8 chevy motor . but im not so m10 it is . i dont need massive power just enough to get me around . if anything i would work on a vortec to see if it will work. i read somewhere on here . he is working on his to put it in . with some work you could get the m1o to about 150 hp slap on a vortec and it could bring it to about 200 250 hp ? maybe . but thats later i just want to make sure that im not going to damage it even more . how would i check them do i need to crank the motor for that or does it work off a handpump?
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Old 02-02-2004, 03:36 AM   #12
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its the vavle guide seals no big deal i have the same year you do ,ive noticed oil on my plugs about 60000 k ago it blows a little smoke decelerating from high rpms right? just drive it its not ready to die yet!just pull the plugs and clean then every 5000.
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Old 02-02-2004, 11:50 AM   #13
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M10 enough power? Ok I have 325E 6 CYL with 170 Torque I think 122hp that means I should be totally fine. Thanks for sharing it.Me 2 ,just to get me around .
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:52 AM   #14
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ok so no damage being done ? as soon as i can find a tranny for my maxima and replace it i plan o nputting away my bmw and rebuild it . but 4 now its all i got . thanks
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