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12-16-2003, 06:47 PM
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#1
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Red Deer - Alberta
Posts: 434
Car: e30 318i
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what could be making my car idle up and down
i have a 1984 318i and rebuilt motor . the rpm gauge shows that my car idles up and down a little yet never stays constant. the gauge maybe moves 2mm at most yet you can feel it what could this be.and what could i do to fix it .
thanks ahead of time
__________________
1995 VOLVO 850 Turbo
1986 Chev Camaro Z28 running 250 horse with just a stock motor and open air filter carbed.
allcanadianreject84@hotmail.com
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12-16-2003, 07:08 PM
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#2
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old school US member.
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 647
Car: 97 328ic sport 5spd Moreagrun.
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that first place I would start is check the fuel filter.
__________________
02 BMW X5 // 97 BMW 328iC // 89 325is w/ M50 swap // 06 Audi A3 w/ APR stage II
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12-16-2003, 07:38 PM
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#3
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BMW = Big Money Wasted
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 497
Car: BMW
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alternator? low charge??
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12-16-2003, 08:01 PM
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#4
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Gets Blown Daily
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Scarghetto
Posts: 6,151
Car: 1994 333HP Supercharged Project E36, 1996 Hummer H1
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I've battled this problem on my E36, but the same things can happen to the E30 as well:
1. Idle Control Valve (make sure it's clean, connected, and the arrow on it is pointing up)
2. Air Flow Sensor (make sure it's not upside down)
3. Check for air leaks, and vaccum leaks
4. Clean your air filter
5. O2 sensor (I check this one last because it's an expensive part)
__________________
'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)
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12-16-2003, 09:55 PM
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#5
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---
Join Date: May 2003
Location: etobicoke
Posts: 12,340
Car: e36 m42
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had this problem until a few days ago... changed my voltage regulator. If you notice your lights flicker a bit too... then I'd say this is likely the prob.
But check your ICV, Air Flow Sensor and Air Filter first.. (as djcontra said...)
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12-17-2003, 05:45 AM
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#6
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3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Red Deer - Alberta
Posts: 434
Car: e30 318i
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well see i had my whole engine out during summer when i did my rebuild and i also just installed new alternator. thus when doing this i had to take off my air box and what not. so i will check the air flow meter first then for leaks hopefully i find it thanks guys.
__________________
1995 VOLVO 850 Turbo
1986 Chev Camaro Z28 running 250 horse with just a stock motor and open air filter carbed.
allcanadianreject84@hotmail.com
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12-17-2003, 08:18 AM
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#7
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 63
Car: BMW 325i M-Tech II
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Hi,
I have the same problem with my 325i E30 and I found that this only happens when I turn on more electrical devices.
So my guess is to check also if it is possible to install a bigger battery for instance a gel battery.
Bastiaan
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12-17-2003, 08:48 PM
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#8
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 2,227
Car: Car Less
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check the alternator
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12-17-2003, 10:42 PM
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#9
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 12,583
Car: MK4 Jetta TDI
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Quote:
Originally posted by djcontra
I've battled this problem on my E36, but the same things can happen to the E30 as well:
1. Idle Control Valve (make sure it's clean, connected, and the arrow on it is pointing up)
2. Air Flow Sensor (make sure it's not upside down)
3. Check for air leaks, and vaccum leaks
4. Clean your air filter
5. O2 sensor (I check this one last because it's an expensive part)
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See ihaven't checked all of this stuff, but i notice that my IDLE starts BOUNCIN sometimes when i apply the brakes, moderately enough to stop, what the hell can that be from?!
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12-17-2003, 10:42 PM
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#10
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4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: some terrestrial planet
Posts: 663
Car: E30, 318i, 84 (project restoration)
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I thought this was normal when i got my car it idealed between 500-1000RPM. However, now with my burnt cat (don't tell anyone IE: popo, gov, EPA I told you that) my car now ideals at 750-1150+/-RPM.
Getting off the subject I feel that my car has a little more get up and go and the heater get hotter faster.
Getting back on subject in the Bently Service Manual, I have, it reports the following ideal speeds 318i (84-85) 750/850+/-50 RPM, 325, 325e (84-87) 700+/-50 RPM, 325,325i/is/ic (88?) 720+/-40 or 760+/-40 RPMBut if your worried check your idle control thingies.
If you don't mind me asking how did your rebuild go and what was replaced/rebuilt?
__________________
Mad E30 lover
Last edited by BladeRunner; 12-17-2003 at 10:44 PM.
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12-17-2003, 10:46 PM
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#11
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Barrie/Oakville
Posts: 2,006
Car: 1997 Jetta GLX VR6, 1998 BMW E36 323is {M52}(SOLD!), '04 e46 325iT (pops), '86 e30 325e {M20}(My Classic),
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Had the exact same problem, It was the air boot coming from the mass air flow sensor to the manifold, there was a hole in it.....Also check the idle control valve.......
Jay
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Past: 1998 323is (E36)
1986 325e (E30)
Present: 1997 Jetta GLX VR6
2004 325iT (E46) (pops)
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12-18-2003, 08:26 PM
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#12
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Stouffville
Posts: 174
Car: 97 Z3 2.8
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I too think this sounds like a vaccum leak issue.....
Bill
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Bill
1997 Z3 with N/A power adders....
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12-18-2003, 10:19 PM
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#13
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Street - Ville
Posts: 1,264
Car: Wolfsburg Golf 2011
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i used to have that problem too after installing the Dinan chip and BMW dealer mechanic told me it's the idle control valve needs to be clean or replace. it would happened when the engine is hot especially after racing around. where the idle control valve is located it's a bitch to get at but for some strange reason the problem went away after a week later and never come back until now.
__________________

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