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Old 07-11-2003, 02:58 PM   #1
Autotechnica
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Rough idle and acceleration

I just got my alternator replaced because my voltage regulator was malfunctioning on my old one. I thought that was the cause of my rough idle and "Check Engine" light. But after the alternator was replaced, I still have the same problems. When I turn on the fan or A/C the idle gets even more rough, at times feels like it's going to stall.

A few things I thought about, possibly the O2 or Oxygen sensor? I've seen some people post about clogged PVC casuing rough idle as well.

Anyways, totally new problem recently and it seems to be getting worse. The check engine light is still on and I noticed that somtimes when I accelerate say from 2500rpm (just an example) the car will bog and then start to accelerate. Almost like turbo lag. Sometimes when I shift from 1st to 2nd I get this bog as well. The car will bog, then start to accelerate again. I don't think it's a misfire, I just changed all the spark plugs and ignition wires. I use Octane 92 fuel. I've also done the clutch slip test and it isn't my clutch. I don't want to change things if it isn't necessary. Just in the past month I've spent over $400 on repairs and I'm really starting to get fed up with it.

I've said it a million times and I'll say it again. BMW's are real money pits.

Any help would be appreciate, thanks!

Just to update, I've owned my '94 318 for 1 year. Here is what I've had replaced/repaired...

engine mounts
shocks/struts/springs
exhaust
A/C freon refill
thermostat
L/R control arm bushings
L/R ball joints
tranny seals
wipers and blades
brakes (rear)
shock mounts
shifter linkage
battery
alternator
ignition wires
spark plugs
X-brace (entire reinfocement bar was missing)
exhaust heat shield (was missing)
power window arms

Lots more I can't recall right now, but god, what a lemon. I enjoy driving the car, it handles great and I can't think of any other car I'd rather own. But the repairs are driving me nuts.

Bry
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'02 C32 AMG @ 18psi - Eurocharged custom ECU/TCU, ASP 178mm crank pulley + NW PSK, CM30 i/c pump, NW i/c iso kit, EC i/c, Magnecore wires, NW CAI, SL55 Y pipe, NW ported intake manifolds + gaskets/spacers, NW inconel exhaust manifolds, NW catch can, dual exhaust, H&R sways, H&R coilovers, H&R spacers, Quaife ATB LSD, goodridge lines, EBC yellowstuff, AMG 18" rims, Zeitronix datalogger.


Last edited by Autotechnica; 07-11-2003 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 07-11-2003, 03:06 PM   #2
Gamite
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02 sensor? Distribu cap/rotor?

are you running rich? Does the bogging continue after you've driven the car for a while?
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Old 07-11-2003, 03:09 PM   #3
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I know it sounds silly, but check to make sure all the fan blades are still attached to the engine fan. When enough brake off, it creates a really rough idle and problems.
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'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)

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Old 07-11-2003, 03:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gamite
02 sensor? Distribu cap/rotor?

are you running rich? Does the bogging continue after you've driven the car for a while?
It's not running rich, but I haven't really driven the car enough to know when it kicks in exactly. I mean when it does happen the car was driven for no more than 10 min. So I'm sure the normal running engine temp. was not reached, yet it was enough for me to notice there was a problem. The check engine light is on, so there is definitely something wrong.

I can't recall if I've experienced this bogging problem after the car has been driven for a while. However, the rough idle continues reguardless.

Thanks,

Bry
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'02 C32 AMG @ 18psi - Eurocharged custom ECU/TCU, ASP 178mm crank pulley + NW PSK, CM30 i/c pump, NW i/c iso kit, EC i/c, Magnecore wires, NW CAI, SL55 Y pipe, NW ported intake manifolds + gaskets/spacers, NW inconel exhaust manifolds, NW catch can, dual exhaust, H&R sways, H&R coilovers, H&R spacers, Quaife ATB LSD, goodridge lines, EBC yellowstuff, AMG 18" rims, Zeitronix datalogger.

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Old 07-11-2003, 03:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by djcontra
I know it sounds silly, but check to make sure all the fan blades are still attached to the engine fan. When enough brake off, it creates a really rough idle and problems.
Hmmm, that's actually a good idea. I noticed that the previous owner of the car must got been in a minor accident, because the side of the fan cover was ripped up. The fan must have hit the cover when the side was hit. However, when the car is started, the fan seems to spin without hesistation and very smooth. Since Charlie had removed my fan previously I doubt the blades are missing but I will check. Thanks for the advice though, everything helps.

Bry
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'02 C32 AMG @ 18psi - Eurocharged custom ECU/TCU, ASP 178mm crank pulley + NW PSK, CM30 i/c pump, NW i/c iso kit, EC i/c, Magnecore wires, NW CAI, SL55 Y pipe, NW ported intake manifolds + gaskets/spacers, NW inconel exhaust manifolds, NW catch can, dual exhaust, H&R sways, H&R coilovers, H&R spacers, Quaife ATB LSD, goodridge lines, EBC yellowstuff, AMG 18" rims, Zeitronix datalogger.


Last edited by Autotechnica; 07-11-2003 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 07-11-2003, 03:32 PM   #6
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Also, one thing I usually suggest first is trying to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 15mins. It did wonders for my car the other day when I reset the computer. Now the drive is much smoother and I get better gas consumption.
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'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)


Last edited by djcontra; 07-11-2003 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 07-11-2003, 03:32 PM   #7
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ummmm could be a number of things:

vacuum leak
fuel injector
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
fuel pump regulator
air mass sensor
clogged fuel filter
clogged air filter
dist cap/rotor (if yours em)
comp
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Old 07-11-2003, 05:04 PM   #8
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I agree with sadda///M. Start by changing the fuel filter first.

SL


Quote:
Originally posted by sadda///M
ummmm could be a number of things:

vacuum leak
fuel injector
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
fuel pump regulator
air mass sensor
clogged fuel filter
clogged air filter
dist cap/rotor (if yours em)
comp
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Old 07-11-2003, 05:39 PM   #9
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It's not a vaccum leak for sure. I changed all my hoses in advance after I purchased my car. The MAF is also not malfunctioning, I had this checked out. The air filter is a new K&N CAI. I haven't changed the fuel filter before and I have no idea how.

Where is the fuel filter located and how much does it costs? Can I change this myself?

I used 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner (concentrated) but how can I check to see if an injector is physically clogged? Will it be easy to remove?

My mechanic suggested that I change the O2 sensor, does this sound like an O2 sensor problem?

I realize that it's difficult to diagnose the problem. But I just wanted some opinions before I try the replace everything till it works method.

Thanks!

Bryan
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'02 C32 AMG @ 18psi - Eurocharged custom ECU/TCU, ASP 178mm crank pulley + NW PSK, CM30 i/c pump, NW i/c iso kit, EC i/c, Magnecore wires, NW CAI, SL55 Y pipe, NW ported intake manifolds + gaskets/spacers, NW inconel exhaust manifolds, NW catch can, dual exhaust, H&R sways, H&R coilovers, H&R spacers, Quaife ATB LSD, goodridge lines, EBC yellowstuff, AMG 18" rims, Zeitronix datalogger.

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Old 07-11-2003, 05:51 PM   #10
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A fuel filter is only about $15 or less. I had it changed on my last car and it made the car run a lot smoother. Only downside is I used more fuel afterwards

I'm not sure where it'd be on your engine though
__________________

'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)

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Old 07-11-2003, 05:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by djcontra
A fuel filter is only about $15 or less. I had it changed on my last car and it made the car run a lot smoother. Only downside is I used more fuel afterwards

I'm not sure where it'd be on your engine though
Thanks! Did you change it yourself? If so, was it difficult?

Bry
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'02 C32 AMG @ 18psi - Eurocharged custom ECU/TCU, ASP 178mm crank pulley + NW PSK, CM30 i/c pump, NW i/c iso kit, EC i/c, Magnecore wires, NW CAI, SL55 Y pipe, NW ported intake manifolds + gaskets/spacers, NW inconel exhaust manifolds, NW catch can, dual exhaust, H&R sways, H&R coilovers, H&R spacers, Quaife ATB LSD, goodridge lines, EBC yellowstuff, AMG 18" rims, Zeitronix datalogger.

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Old 07-11-2003, 07:41 PM   #12
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i have that same problem too...it kinda lags right when i start driving the car...but after that it is fine/when it warms up....can someone tell me what is wrong with my car?
Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2003, 07:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Autotechnica
Thanks! Did you change it yourself? If so, was it difficult?

Bry
No, my mechanic did it for me, and later told me I could have probably done it myself. He didn't charge me any labour for the job since he said it was so easy.
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'94 Supercharged E36 325is (150,000 original km's)
Mods
-Vortech V9 G-Trim @ ~10psi w/ BOV
-Shortstack headers
-Vortech RRFPR
-255LPH Walbro fuel pump
-TEIN SS Coilovers w/ Pillowball mounts
-Keskin KT1 17x8.5 & 17x10
-Remus full catback
-Authentic Rieger Infinity I body kit
-SMT6 EMS (Untuned)

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Old 07-11-2003, 07:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by djcontra
I know it sounds silly, but check to make sure all the fan blades are still attached to the engine fan. When enough brake off, it creates a really rough idle and problems.
I've had a similar problem, my clutch fan siezed up and all the ball bearings inside were messed up, it was incredible to the amount of vibration it made.



Bryan, check your fan, maybe the clutch is gone too?
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Old 07-11-2003, 07:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by moregothanshow
i have that same problem too...it kinda lags right when i start driving the car...but after that it is fine/when it warms up....can someone tell me what is wrong with my car?
Thanks!
My car is doing that right now, and I think its running rich.
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