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Old 10-09-2013, 10:47 PM   #31
noobeee
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Originally Posted by cormier View Post
Nice buy! Now take it to a forum sponsor shop lol
thanks man. I will as soon as i can haha!
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:32 PM   #32
SubDad
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What the report didn't say was very good news; it doesn't say "Body rusted to heck, floor shot, junk this basket case." All the stuff is fixable mechanical stuff that can be fixed in your driveway, except possibly "Strut mounts broken" (bad towers ?) and welding the header flange (?).
Do the stuff in the report as Aviator translated* and you've got yourself a Car.

*(That was nice of Aviator to do that translation for you. I thought about doing it but I'm too lazy, being an Old Aviator.)
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:42 PM   #33
noobeee
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Originally Posted by SubDad View Post
What the report didn't say was very good news; it doesn't say "Body rusted to heck, floor shot, junk this basket case." All the stuff is fixable mechanical stuff that can be fixed in your driveway, except possibly "Strut mounts broken" (bad towers ?) and welding the header flange (?).
Do the stuff in the report as Aviator translated* and you've got yourself a Car.

*(That was nice of Aviator to do that translation for you. I thought about doing it but I'm too lazy, being an Old Aviator.)
I guess there is a silver lining ahah, yeah i'm going to bring it in somewhere (don't know which sponsor to go to yet lol) for the suspension stuff and too actually get a proper inspection.

when i bought the car the owner said it had been rustproofed every year or something, and when i looked underneath there wasn't any rust other than the muffler and springs.

yeah i was soo happy to see that someone did that it made everything a lot easier to understand! its ok someone did it and thats all that matters.
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:52 AM   #34
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On most cars and light trucks the only thing you would ever use a 1/2" drive socket is the wheel lugnuts and the main bolt on the front of the engine [to manually turn the engine when setting valves etc.] and maybe the strut/shock mounts. It's just too big for most other purposes... you're far better off using a good penetrating oil like LPS2 or LPS1 or others or carefully applying a little heat with a torch and using the 3/8" ...much less chance of breaking fasteners that way.
the 1/4" drive will get in most places due to the smaller size of the sockets/handle and is big enough for just about every fastener you'll come across.

Glad I could help noobee.

Last edited by aviator; 10-10-2013 at 01:56 AM.
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Old 10-10-2013, 07:47 PM   #35
noobeee
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Originally Posted by aviator View Post
On most cars and light trucks the only thing you would ever use a 1/2" drive socket is the wheel lugnuts and the main bolt on the front of the engine [to manually turn the engine when setting valves etc.] and maybe the strut/shock mounts. It's just too big for most other purposes... you're far better off using a good penetrating oil like LPS2 or LPS1 or others or carefully applying a little heat with a torch and using the 3/8" ...much less chance of breaking fasteners that way.
the 1/4" drive will get in most places due to the smaller size of the sockets/handle and is big enough for just about every fastener you'll come across.

Glad I could help noobee.
aright ill keep that in mind, thanks again for the help.
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Old 10-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #36
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is there any cheap alternative for towing other than caa, i called them today and apparently i need a valid license plate on my car for them to tow it anywhere so thats out of the question for now.i have uhauled before but i am going to be taking my car from aurora to ajax (stance factory) hopefully next week so im wondering if anyone knows if there is a better way to get it there that wont cost me a million dollars?
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:11 AM   #37
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Don't know any cheap way to do it if they are going to be all officious about it...

fwiw CT has a very good socket set on sale this week for $59.99 [@60% off] that has just about every thing you will ever need. and their warranty is second to none if you ever break or wear out any tool just bring back the socket/wrench/screwdriver whatever and they will give you a new one with no hassle at all.
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Old 10-11-2013, 06:37 AM   #38
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is there any cheap alternative for towing other than caa, i called them today and apparently i need a valid license plate on my car for them to tow it anywhere so thats out of the question for now.i have uhauled before but i am going to be taking my car from aurora to ajax (stance factory) hopefully next week so im wondering if anyone knows if there is a better way to get it there that wont cost me a million dollars?
Just throw plates from another car on it. They don't run the plates.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:42 AM   #39
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Just throw plates from another car on it. They don't run the plates.
this is true.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:12 PM   #40
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Just throw plates from another car on it. They don't run the plates.
I was going to suggest that but did'nt want to be the first to suggest "fraudulent activities" LOL...
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:52 PM   #41
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Legal way to do it is to buy a 10-day permit at the MTO. If you bought the car privately and it was branded Pass-Fit, I believe you should be able to get it, although not sure if there's a time limit in which you must do that.

If you got it through a dealer, you're SOL unless they can throw temp plates on to get it to a garage.
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:10 PM   #42
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OK I think I can translate some of it for you... total lack of punctuation by the computer does'nt help lol but here goes...

The belts are cracked [I assume they mean alternator/ac belt etc.] = easy cheap fix.
Front links? - steering links may need replacing [get clarification from shop] - relatively easy fix - will need an alignment after new parts are installed.
Drivers rear cv shaft - the drivers side half shaft from the differential to the wheel may need replacing.
Tires worn - replace - a set of good used tires will cost @$200. Note tires in the 14" size are very rare these days and your selection for new will be very limited. Up sizing to 15" rims is a good optiion to get more tire selection.
Rear muffler holes - replace the muffler - relatively inexpensive depending on which muffler you choose.
Pass. strut leaking - the passenger front strut needs replacing - not too hard a job to do yourself - several options available -
Strut mounts broken - strut mount is a plate that attaches to the top of the strut so you can attach the top of the strut to the car - more clarification - which struts specifically? [I would guess the same pass. strut but who knows?]
Rear links - I would guess they are talking about the rear sway bar links but you should ask for clarification - another relatively easy/cheap fix - but a PITA to do with the car up on jack stands - much easier on a hoist lol...
Rear rotors - replace rear brake rotors.
Header flange broken - one of the flanges that attaches the the header to the exhaust needs to be welded - could be the motor side or the exhaust pipe side - it may not be possible to repair depending on where the break is - header may need to be replaced...
hoses cracked - ask which hoses... vacuum hoses? coolant hoses?... i would guess they mean coolant hoses ... in any case both are easy fixes just replace them ... do the vacuum ones [if they mean these] one at a time so you don't make a mistake.
Spark plug wires broken - replace - you would anyway as part of the tune up.
Fan not working - probably means cabin heater fan - [its part of the safety check... you have to be able to run the defroster] could just be the rheostat ... not a hard job to do... ask which fan?
Shifter linkage loose - not a hard fix there is a kit available - just a fussy PITA to get to...
Brake flex hoses cracked -refers to the rubber brake hoses from the car to the wheel - replace them - not hard job - brakes will need to be bled after.
All mounts broken/cracking - could get spendy - basically all the rubber bushings in the various mounting points ie differential, motor, suspension etc. are wearing out ... replacing them would be a matter of pick a place to start and work your way around... which ones need doing for sure and which can wait is a topic that needs to be discussed with a professional.

Hope this helped.
Aviator

*the above information is not a professional assessment and I am not responsible for any results caused by any person[s] acting on it.*


Jesus! I thought my e30 had problems
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:02 PM   #43
noobeee
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Originally Posted by cirrusblau View Post
Legal way to do it is to buy a 10-day permit at the MTO. If you bought the car privately and it was branded Pass-Fit, I believe you should be able to get it, although not sure if there's a time limit in which you must do that.

If you got it through a dealer, you're SOL unless they can throw temp plates on to get it to a garage.
i tried this when i bought the car haha but it was marked unsafe for road because it hadnt had a safety for a few years
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:03 PM   #44
noobeee
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Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
Jesus! I thought my e30 had problems
you in for a build!
hahah i guess so!
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:06 PM   #45
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Noobeee, got a friend with a pick-up or SUV? You can rent a full trailer for 65/day or one of those Godforsaken half trailers for probably less.

Personally, I think getting a trip permit is an age thing and has nothing to do with dealers or time off the road or anything real. Until I reached 35 or so they'd take one look at me, snear and refuse the trip permit. Now they help me to a chair, hand me the permit, take my pulse and help me out of the building with kind and gentle smiles.

[Aviator, I sent you a reply to your PM, but I'm not sure it went through. Thanks for the LPS info.]
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