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Old 10-08-2013, 08:49 PM   #16
noobeee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sok View Post
Looks like a good base to start with, e30's are pretty easy to work on but being as old as they are you can blink & your wallet is empty lol. If you can do basic work like spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, belts it will help.
is there any how to's for doing this stuff on an e30 that you know of?
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:08 PM   #17
SubDad
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Quote:
is there any how to's for doing this stuff on an e30 that you know of?
Oh gosh, there's just a serious crap load of great advice and parts suppliers out there. Just Google E30 xyz, where xyz = whatever you're wanting to fix or are curious about.

RealOEM will take you to the part number you need with the last 7 digits of your VIN.

You'll want to get a Bentley manual, too, and I like the book "E30-3 Series Restoration Bible" by Andrew Everett.

Got tools? I mean good ones?

Welcome!
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:31 PM   #18
noobeee
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Originally Posted by SubDad View Post
Oh gosh, there's just a serious crap load of great advice and parts suppliers out there. Just Google E30 xyz, where xyz = whatever you're wanting to fix or are curious about.

RealOEM will take you to the part number you need with the last 7 digits of your VIN.

You'll want to get a Bentley manual, too, and I like the book "E30-3 Series Restoration Bible" by Andrew Everett.

Got tools? I mean good ones?

Welcome!
i do have the manual that came with the car if that helps? ill order that book as soon as i can though, but in the meantime i will google all the repairs that are easy to do, as for tools i have none really other than wrenches and allen keys, what would i need to start?
thanks for the info!
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:49 PM   #19
SubDad
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The book that came with the car tells you how to operate it.
The Bentley manual is a shop manual that tells you how to repair the car. There are other shop manual publishers, but I think most people prefer the Bentley. YMMV. There are digital versions on the web, too.

A shop manual will let you look at the job and decide if you have the skills and the tools.
Everybody starts dumb and gets smarter. Don't be afraid, and celebrate the money you save doing it yourself and the skills you learn along the way..
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:14 AM   #20
aviator
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OK I think I can translate some of it for you... total lack of punctuation by the computer does'nt help lol but here goes...

The belts are cracked [I assume they mean alternator/ac belt etc.] = easy cheap fix.
Front links? - steering links may need replacing [get clarification from shop] - relatively easy fix - will need an alignment after new parts are installed.
Drivers rear cv shaft - the drivers side half shaft from the differential to the wheel may need replacing.
Tires worn - replace - a set of good used tires will cost @$200. Note tires in the 14" size are very rare these days and your selection for new will be very limited. Up sizing to 15" rims is a good optiion to get more tire selection.
Rear muffler holes - replace the muffler - relatively inexpensive depending on which muffler you choose.
Pass. strut leaking - the passenger front strut needs replacing - not too hard a job to do yourself - several options available -
Strut mounts broken - strut mount is a plate that attaches to the top of the strut so you can attach the top of the strut to the car - more clarification - which struts specifically? [I would guess the same pass. strut but who knows?]
Rear links - I would guess they are talking about the rear sway bar links but you should ask for clarification - another relatively easy/cheap fix - but a PITA to do with the car up on jack stands - much easier on a hoist lol...
Rear rotors - replace rear brake rotors.
Header flange broken - one of the flanges that attaches the the header to the exhaust needs to be welded - could be the motor side or the exhaust pipe side - it may not be possible to repair depending on where the break is - header may need to be replaced...
hoses cracked - ask which hoses... vacuum hoses? coolant hoses?... i would guess they mean coolant hoses ... in any case both are easy fixes just replace them ... do the vacuum ones [if they mean these] one at a time so you don't make a mistake.
Spark plug wires broken - replace - you would anyway as part of the tune up.
Fan not working - probably means cabin heater fan - [its part of the safety check... you have to be able to run the defroster] could just be the rheostat ... not a hard job to do... ask which fan?
Shifter linkage loose - not a hard fix there is a kit available - just a fussy PITA to get to...
Brake flex hoses cracked -refers to the rubber brake hoses from the car to the wheel - replace them - not hard job - brakes will need to be bled after.
All mounts broken/cracking - could get spendy - basically all the rubber bushings in the various mounting points ie differential, motor, suspension etc. are wearing out ... replacing them would be a matter of pick a place to start and work your way around... which ones need doing for sure and which can wait is a topic that needs to be discussed with a professional.

Hope this helped.
Aviator

*the above information is not a professional assessment and I am not responsible for any results caused by any person[s] acting on it.*

Last edited by aviator; 10-09-2013 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:19 AM   #21
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Nice buy! Now take it to a forum sponsor shop lol
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:31 AM   #22
aviator
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As for tools other than the wrenches/allen keys you have... get a good socket set from canadian tire/sears with 1/4 and 3/8" drives [they go on sale all the time] and a good set of screw drivers - you'll mainly be using philips and standard heads [star and blade] fwiw...

special tools such as pullers/pickle forks etc you can rent from CT for a small fee/free...

a torque wrench is a good to have for setting the nuts/bolts to the torques specified in the bentley manual - good ones are avail. at Princess Auto for around $40, very good ones from CT go on sale regularly... get the "click" kind not the dial/bar kind they are more accurate... any mechanic will be able to explain them to you if you need.
kinda hard to explain without the tool in hand since some of the adjustments are different depending on which one you have.

Last edited by aviator; 10-09-2013 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:51 AM   #23
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Quote:
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and I like the book "E30-3 Series Restoration Bible" by Andrew Everett.
That book is absolutely 100% useless. Do not buy.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by aviator View Post
As for tools other than the wrenches/allen keys you have... get a good socket set from canadian tire/sears with 1/4 and 3/8" drives [they go on sale all the time] and a good set of screw drivers - you'll mainly be using philips and standard heads [star and blade] fwiw...

special tools such as pullers/pickle forks etc you can rent from CT for a small fee/free...

a torque wrench is a good to have for setting the nuts/bolts to the torques specified in the bentley manual - good ones are avail. at Princess Auto for around $40, very good ones from CT go on sale regularly... get the "click" kind not the dial/bar kind they are more accurate... any mechanic will be able to explain them to you if you need.
kinda hard to explain without the tool in hand since some of the adjustments are different depending on which one you have.
I wouldn't suggest getting 1/4" sockets. Go for 1/2" and 3/8"
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #25
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nice set of tools, bentley manual and MOST important...


an updated tetanus shot:-P
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:09 PM   #26
SubDad
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For now, like Cormier said take the car to a forum sponsor, or to a good neighbourhood garage.
Later, do things that are just slightly too difficult for you and gradually nothing will be too tough to tackle.

Sorry OP, gotta do this:
+1 on 1/4 drive.
Hard to over-torque something with 1/4 drive and it fits where 3/8 won't. I used my 1/4 universal adapter quite a bit last Sunday.
Also my duckbills and side cutters.

Quote:
That book is absolutely 100% useless. Do not buy.

Bentley is "How To", the Everett book is a conversation with an experienced Brit E30 fettler and is "What do, What Don't Bother, What's a Right PITA" and is great winter reading. It steered me the right way to actually getting my current E30 running in the first place, (pages 106 to 110), was right about all the places my previous car had terminal rust ( pages 30 and 49 to 54), and has gobs of other good information.
Of course, as always...YMMV.
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:42 PM   #27
noobeee
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Originally Posted by SubDad View Post
The book that came with the car tells you how to operate it.
The Bentley manual is a shop manual that tells you how to repair the car. There are other shop manual publishers, but I think most people prefer the Bentley. YMMV. There are digital versions on the web, too.

A shop manual will let you look at the job and decide if you have the skills and the tools.
Everybody starts dumb and gets smarter. Don't be afraid, and celebrate the money you save doing it yourself and the skills you learn along the way..
Oh ok thanks for clearing that up, im going to order those two off ebay asap!
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:43 PM   #28
noobeee
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Originally Posted by aviator View Post
OK I think I can translate some of it for you... total lack of punctuation by the computer does'nt help lol but here goes...

The belts are cracked [I assume they mean alternator/ac belt etc.] = easy cheap fix.
Front links? - steering links may need replacing [get clarification from shop] - relatively easy fix - will need an alignment after new parts are installed.
Drivers rear cv shaft - the drivers side half shaft from the differential to the wheel may need replacing.
Tires worn - replace - a set of good used tires will cost @$200. Note tires in the 14" size are very rare these days and your selection for new will be very limited. Up sizing to 15" rims is a good optiion to get more tire selection.
Rear muffler holes - replace the muffler - relatively inexpensive depending on which muffler you choose.
Pass. strut leaking - the passenger front strut needs replacing - not too hard a job to do yourself - several options available -
Strut mounts broken - strut mount is a plate that attaches to the top of the strut so you can attach the top of the strut to the car - more clarification - which struts specifically? [I would guess the same pass. strut but who knows?]
Rear links - I would guess they are talking about the rear sway bar links but you should ask for clarification - another relatively easy/cheap fix - but a PITA to do with the car up on jack stands - much easier on a hoist lol...
Rear rotors - replace rear brake rotors.
Header flange broken - one of the flanges that attaches the the header to the exhaust needs to be welded - could be the motor side or the exhaust pipe side - it may not be possible to repair depending on where the break is - header may need to be replaced...
hoses cracked - ask which hoses... vacuum hoses? coolant hoses?... i would guess they mean coolant hoses ... in any case both are easy fixes just replace them ... do the vacuum ones [if they mean these] one at a time so you don't make a mistake.
Spark plug wires broken - replace - you would anyway as part of the tune up.
Fan not working - probably means cabin heater fan - [its part of the safety check... you have to be able to run the defroster] could just be the rheostat ... not a hard job to do... ask which fan?
Shifter linkage loose - not a hard fix there is a kit available - just a fussy PITA to get to...
Brake flex hoses cracked -refers to the rubber brake hoses from the car to the wheel - replace them - not hard job - brakes will need to be bled after.
All mounts broken/cracking - could get spendy - basically all the rubber bushings in the various mounting points ie differential, motor, suspension etc. are wearing out ... replacing them would be a matter of pick a place to start and work your way around... which ones need doing for sure and which can wait is a topic that needs to be discussed with a professional.

Hope this helped.
Aviator

*the above information is not a professional assessment and I am not responsible for any results caused by any person[s] acting on it.*
THANKYOU!!! this is what i needed,everything is simplified. thank you!!!
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:45 PM   #29
noobeee
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Originally Posted by The Twin View Post
nice set of tools, bentley manual and MOST important...


an updated tetanus shot:-P
I will go and get some tools on the weekend, oddly enough I actually just got a tetanus shot ahah!
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:46 PM   #30
noobeee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubDad View Post
For now, like Cormier said take the car to a forum sponsor, or to a good neighbourhood garage.
Later, do things that are just slightly too difficult for you and gradually nothing will be too tough to tackle.

Sorry OP, gotta do this:
+1 on 1/4 drive.
Hard to over-torque something with 1/4 drive and it fits where 3/8 won't. I used my 1/4 universal adapter quite a bit last Sunday.
Also my duckbills and side cutters.



Bentley is "How To", the Everett book is a conversation with an experienced Brit E30 fettler and is "What do, What Don't Bother, What's a Right PITA" and is great winter reading. It steered me the right way to actually getting my current E30 running in the first place, (pages 106 to 110), was right about all the places my previous car had terminal rust ( pages 30 and 49 to 54), and has gobs of other good information.
Of course, as always...YMMV.
I am going to take it to a forum sponsor as soon as i can rent another uhaul or buy caa! thanks for the advise !
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