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Old 09-24-2013, 11:46 PM   #16
Eurostyle
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Soooo....
You were not joking about the spider!!! Found this guy in my office today...Was not happy, but he was dead right after the picture. All good now!
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:40 AM   #17
davericher20
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So you killed it by burning the shop down? I wouldn't see any other way.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:14 PM   #18
SamE30e
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Lmao, yeah that fits the description. I might not be able to work on the car until it's -20 out so it freezes to death. Unless I find it and kill it with a shot gun...
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #19
jrsmitchell
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How can you be sure it didn't lay eggs in the seat padding of your chair?
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:27 PM   #20
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E21 Gr5 engine bay for some inspiration... even though that engine is unobtanium...
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:35 PM   #21
Robb
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cool E21.
There's a really nice white one on Caledonia and North of Lawrence, across the street from Tim Hortons sitting in front of an Auto trim shop. I think its for sale too.
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #22
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Well, little update. I ordered a bunch of parts. They should be here today. I ordered inner and outer tie rods, all the filters, cap, rotor, plugs, and braided brake lines from UUC. I'm waiting a bit to order suspension and brake parts. I want to get the Ireland engineering wilwood front brake kit. It works out to be a few hundred dollars more than front brakes with pads rotors and calipers.

I need to sort out suspension too, I'm debating between Gaz and Ground controls. Gc's are more expensive, but you get more for your money, selectable spring rates, pillow balls and camber plates. But there is more work involved with shortening strut housings. Gaz doesn't come with plates or selectable spring rates. I want to order a set of Suspension Techniques sways, and not ordering those yet stops me from ordering the euro metrics kit, because you need to know sway bar diameter.

On another note. I fixed the gauges, I was right when I said the fuse for the reverse lights powers the fuel sender and coolant temp sensor circuit.

UUC brake lines



Magic working gauges



Bullet style fuses

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Old 10-16-2013, 10:38 PM   #23
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UPDATE!
Ok, so I'm moving the car to my buddies shop to start on the body work as I can't do it at work. When I picked it up, I noticed a nasty pull to the right and a burning smell from the brakes. Low and behold, the RF caliper was stuck. I looked around for a used one with no luck, and a new one was $200. A rebuild was in order. I picked up 2 rebuild kits from PelicanParts for $25, they took a while to get here but I'm in no rush.

The E21 has a soft line that goes from the body to the strut, then a hard line to the caliper. First thing I checked was the bleeder screw, it wasn't seized so I was able to proceed. Of course, being 30 years old the fitting was seized. It luckily wasn't seized in the caliper, but the line was seized into the fitting. I hate brake lines, I made a solid attempt at heating the line and cracking it loose, but no luck, it started squirting. But luckily someone in the shop was doing lines and I borrowed a 10" piece of scrap from an X5 (it's the same size line and coated). I didn't have new fittings so I had to re-use the old ones, which wasn't a big deal, I just needed to get the seized piece out. I cut with about 1 cm left and put it in a vice, heated it up and gave it some love taps. With some finesse, the old piece came out. I flared and bent the line and I was onto the caliper.






Caliper off. You can see it's pretty rough.



I used a bit of compressed air to pop the cylinder out. The inside cylinder shot out no problem, but the outside was another story. I thought that it was because it was sticking, but it was in there pretty good. After a close look, I could see why.



The boot was destroyed and there was rust all around the piston. Most likely it was lodged between the bore and the piston causing it not to return and stick.



I needed to give a bit of love taps to get it out. They are very very tight in the bore, so I had to tap one side, then flip the caliper and tap the other.

Now these calipers are ATE, they are 2 pieced and held together by 4 bolts. I could have separated the caliper and used a brake hone that I have in my box to clean the bores, but I didn't have the o-rings that are probably sealing the 2 pieces.



After getting the pistons out, the outer one was a bit rough, no real damage. I took, the caliper to the parts cleaner and took some 2500 grit sand paper, or emery cloth to it and cleaned them up.



This is what they both looked like after.



This is the old boot vs the new boot. You can see the old one was fubar'd and full of holes, leaving it open to the elements.



I also removed the old lip seals and cleaned the bores with the 2500 grit. My main focus was to clean the rusty ring on the outer most part. It is smooth as glass here but obviously has some rust on it, the pictures don't do it justice.



I installed the new lip seals with the smaller ID side of the seal facing the pressure side, and gave the bores one last cleaning with brake clean. I put a very thin coat of silicone on the piston o-ring in the bore to help it slide in. The are very very precise and need to be put in perfectly square, otherwise it will get stuck in the bore and you'll have a hell of a time getting it in, or out. So put it in and apply pressure evenly on both sides, slightly wiggling it will help it slip in.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:39 PM   #24
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Apparently I need to do this in 2 posts (10 image limit)




Don't push the piston all the way into the bore, if you do, you won't get the boot over the lip as it will be sunk in too far. Obviously installed the new boot and retaining rings and then it was back on the car, bleed and road test. Voila, no more pull and burning brake smell. I tested it on the hoist first to make sure it released though, also checked for leaks into the boot.




Overall it wasn't that bad. Honestly, all I do is replace calipers at work. It is faster and more cost efficient. So I haven't actually rebuilt one before, so I popped my cherry today. I have a kit for the other side, but I want to get all the brake line fittings just in case I get stuck again.

I also replaced the cap and rotor on the car today, it had quite a bit of carbon deposits on it, it changed the idle a bit (went up in rpm to 1100) so I dropped it back down to 900.

Next step is body work.... Shit...
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:29 AM   #25
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Due to space restrictions. I can't keep this thing without paying out the ass for storage. So saying that, it's for sale. I want what I paid for it and I'll include the $400 in parts in the trunk. $1500 and I can arrange to drop it off.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:42 AM   #26
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:04 AM   #27
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If I had a house and not a Condo I would keep it. But it's going to cost me the price of the car to store it over the winter. You know you want it Steve.

Oh yeah, it comes with a valid appraisal and the ownership is in my name .
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Last edited by SamE30e; 10-18-2013 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:22 AM   #28
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You know you want it Steve.
I'd be lying if I said I didn't.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:48 AM   #29
SamE30e
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I give you good price and drop it off... Best price bro, in Europe.
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85 - 325
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #30
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Due to space restrictions. I can't keep this thing without paying out the ass for storage. So saying that, it's for sale. I want what I paid for it and I'll include the $400 in parts in the trunk. $1500 and I can arrange to drop it off.
I saw this at Budds the other day when I was picking up my car (the Dakar Eurospec that spent the last couple weeks sitting there)...at least I think I think this is it. Reno showed it to me when I mentioned I was looking for a daily/winter driver.

Honest opinion, how much trouble would this cause me if I intended to drive it for the next few months and then less frequently through the summer? I'm not looking for a project but am not yet despreate enough to go the diesel vw route, so this is interesting..

What would it take to certify?

Thanks,

-James
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