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Old 09-23-2013, 08:21 PM   #1
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I'm back, and now with more hipster.

Greetings friends..

First of all... I was told there is a spider the side of my hand in there. After the ridicule I received from the other technicians at the dealership for the actual purchase of this vehicle, I was informed of this godzilla sized potentially deadly spider lurking. I looked and have not found it yet. I slip into the driver seat with fear... Anyways...

I took a dip into the Subaru world, and well... That ended up costing more than 10 Canadian E30's.... I also got a E46, which well... It's an E46. My pride and joy is my 99 Plymouth Neon Highline race machine, it let me down once, we had a pep talk and never again will it happen.

But enough of that, I'm back. With the help of our good friend Phil over at Eurostyle, I picked up this...errrr ummmm Gem?

It's not an E30, it's got less rust than one... Kinda... And it's older then me.. Perfect... The underside is pretty solid, no holes and just surface rust.

It's a 83 320i (E21 for those who don't know). It might have 200k on it, pretty sure the odometer doesn't work, along with every non essential gauge. 5spd, M10B18 KL-Jetronic goodness..

First issue that Phil mentioned was the idle. It wouldn't idle when it was hot, it was previously though to be a IAC valve (Or in M10 terms a Air Regulating valve) but after some further diagnosis old school style it was actually a combination of things. As you guys know the M10 is a mechanically fuel injected, for the most part.

It actually has an Oxygen sensor and "Lambda control". It's a series of relays connected to the fuel pumps, air regulating valve, WOT switch, coolant temp sensor and other schnanigans. Basically "gates" in a DME, but much larger, slower, and prone to being a dick.

First thing was, the timing. When I was driving it home after doing some sweet brake stance burnouts. I noticed the car fell off up top and of course, wouldn't idle hot and off throttle. This is a sign that timing is off as it's not advancing enough, or too little at high RPM. It could be more complicated with Dwell settings, vacuum advance, and points. But the I covered the basics and got lucky. Checking the timing is pretty easy actually, you need a timing light, of course, and there is a fancy hole with a dent in the flywheel you need to line up revving the car at 2000rpm with vacuum advance disconnected. I works out to roughly 15 degrees BTDC. It was out by a few degrees and the distributor was actually loose when I went to check it, which may account for it actually being out.

After that was sorted out it still wasn't right. It still didn't want to idle, but it would with slight throttle input. So rightfully so I adjusted the idle screw. Brought it up around 900rpm which is around the spec. I could tell it wasn't running right by the exhaust smell. It wasn't burning clean and it was either really rich, or really lean which is hard to determine without a wideband O2. So I did the next best thing, it has a single wire 0-1v Zirconia Ceramic sensor. What does this mean? Well to put it simply, it will read between 0.1 and 0.9 volts, high voltage means rich, low voltage means lean. So 0.4 should be 14.7:1 AFR. The fuel in regulated by a giant AFM type mechanism that runs off vacuum, as vacuum decreases, the fuel flow increases. At idle rpm it's at high vacuum. There is a lot more to it, but that's the basics. There is a small hole with a 3mm allen key to adjust spring pressure, this adjusts your mixture. So I hooked up a multimeter and measured voltage from the O2, I was looking for 0.4 volts roughly. This wouldn't be possible on a OBD car like an E30 because the voltage fluxuates as the DME try's to adjust fuel.

After fiddling around with idle rpm and mixture I got it pretty dead on. I took it for a boot and it run's a lot better, less popping on decel, and most of all, it idles perfect.

The list of stuff it needs:

Body work (Good thing I have a friend who can help)
RF Caliper rebuild
RF inner tie rod.
Exhaust is broken before the rear subframe.

I plan on putting it on a set of GC coil overs. It's the same setup as E30 except the rear is a Macphearson style like the front. I also plan on doing some sort of brake upgrade, IE makes a wilwood setup for a decent price. Sway bars will be a must and I found the wheels I want. They're wide, require a stretch and the hipsters and VW crowd will love the "HERRA FRUSH" look. But still functional for auto-x. Also I want the EuroMetric full bushing kit. I think that will make a huge difference.

Engine.. It's still up in the air from some DCOE's, megasquirt and FI swap, or a engine swap all together. Fund's will determine this.

I was also looking at doing a dash swap, maybe an E30 if I could get it to fit. And it would be pretty cool. The front seats are fubar'd so some cheap chinese recaro's might do the trick.

I hope to do all that over the winter, but only time will tell.

Also, I'm a attention whore, so don't move this to the classics section.

85 325 - Turbo M52B28.

Last edited by SamE30e; 09-23-2013 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:35 PM   #2
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So hip.
REMEMBER: Be safe and have fun is Rule Number 1.

Originally Posted by 411 View Post
just letting this furom [*forum] know
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:42 PM   #3
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:56 PM   #4
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sub'd for obvious reasons.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:05 PM   #5
black and blue
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Sick , welcome back Sam!

Originally Posted by JINT View Post
Some people have serious track experience from the cruise, so what is fast to you, isn't fast to them.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:12 PM   #6
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Nice you found my tarantula!!! ROFL....J/K, I've never seen and spiders THAT big around the shop!!! (altho we might have some Black Widows!)

Good to see you have big plans for it, I got that M60 6spd ready for it!!!
Specialized in BMW recycling, all OEM used parts
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:17 PM   #7
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Phil, I'm pretty sure it is one. I have no clue where it is. I'm scared shitless..
85 325 - Turbo M52B28.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:20 AM   #8
Parts hoarding partner...
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You might want to run a fresh tank of premium through it if you hadn't already seeing it might have been sitting for a bit and fuel might be stale. could also attribute to the rough running.

I think I've had 18 bmw's in 6 years.

1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.
latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
KEEPER 88 5sp Vert 2016
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:33 AM   #9
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Very cool dude. Congrats and good luck!

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Old 09-24-2013, 02:01 PM   #10
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This car needs more turbo! I've got the turbo and manifolds that can make it happen!

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Old 09-24-2013, 03:19 PM   #11
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I am really, really glad that car went to someone on Max.
I was really tempted, but 3 BMW's in the family is enough, so I decided to grab another old school Euro instead.

Plans for euro bumpers/de-US spec bumpering?
www.enthusiastauto.caNeed a car???

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Hers--'07 BMW M5/6.:Indianapolis Red/Black:.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:39 PM   #12
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Glad to see you back in a proper car. Subscribed for build
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:53 PM   #13
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I'm up in the air with what I want to do. I'm kind of just ordering parts now and tiding things up. I would love to do a cool swap like a RWD 4G63, a F22, or a SR20. It's a lot of work and takes a lot of space.

The engine isn't my focus right now though, that's the last thing on the list. I'm more concentrating on body, suspension, brakes and wheels and tires. I wouldn't mind tracking it, ultimately that would be my goal. But I still want it to be a DD.

I might just do a shadow line, and tuck the bumpers. Maybe a trunk lip spoiler. Not too sure. I want to be original and creative, more function over form though.
85 325 - Turbo M52B28.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:30 PM   #14
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Little update... Nothing big. I stopped by work tonight to grab some papers out of the glove box. It gave me a chance to cold start the car with the new fuel adjustments. Started up like a champ.

I also need to fix the coolant gauge and gas gauge, I don't remember if I mentioned it. I know they share a fuse, so it could be that. But the Tach also shares a fuse with that, and it's operative, but works kind of weird. Some simple test's will make it easy to trace the fault. I have an extra cluster, so I can always mix and match parts if need be.

If anyone cares, here's some wiring

I also noticed the reverse lights don't work. Which I know for a fact is a fuse, why it blew, I don't know. It could be the slop in the shifter causing the wire to be pinched on the tunnel when going to reverse, if it's anything like an E30. The wiring is simple on this car, so it shouldn't be too complicated.

I ordered a bunch of parts today from AutoPartsway. I called around to get prices and oddly enough, I got all Bosch, Mahle and Lemforder parts for much less than anyone else. I ordered front inner and outer tie rod ends, plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, oil filter and fuel filter. All for less than the price of 1 tie rod from work... I also spoke to Rudy today and he said he can hook me up with front caliper seals and boots so I can rebuild my front calipers.

The rad is leaking, like I mentioned before. I need to measure it for a aluminium one. Looks like a Civic radiator will be about the same size, maybe slightly bigger and have the water inlet and outlet in the similar position. I will just have to get someone to TIG weld some brackets on. I like the idea that the Mitsu guys use with a stainless straight pipe and two 90 degree silicone hoses for upper and lower hoses.

It looks pretty, is functional, easy to make, and cheap. Vibrant makes all the parts I would need. I just need diameters and such to get the materials.

85 325 - Turbo M52B28.

Last edited by SamE30e; 09-24-2013 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:22 PM   #15
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I was curious who picked her up. Sweet!
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