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Old 09-17-2013, 03:25 PM   #31
subarooo
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It was actually cut a hair too short. So length is not an issue.


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Old 09-17-2013, 03:39 PM   #32
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It was actually cut a hair too short. So length is not an issue.


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Old 09-17-2013, 06:09 PM   #33
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So the driveshaft is the too short, but you can't get it out? I don't get where this is going.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #34
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I unbolted the driveshaft from the diff and there was so much pressure on it that it wouldn't pull back at all.


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The ds was pressed so heavily on the chassis (gas tank) that I couldn't slide it back to remove it


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Old 09-17-2013, 08:37 PM   #35
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The ds was pressed so heavily on the chassis (gas tank) that I couldn't slide it back to remove it


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Rear end is definitely tweaked upwards then.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:10 AM   #36
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Moved the diff down a bit to take it off the frame. Took it for a boot, it lasted a little longer but it still locked up tight. So I pulled the drive shaft. Trannys spins fine. But the back wheels won't. I'm thinkin maybe I need new oil? After it heats up the gears expand and seize up?


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Old 09-18-2013, 08:14 AM   #37
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Degraded oil would not cause such a serious problem. The lash in the sets will give more than enough room for expansion of them.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #38
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What would cause this then? I'm lost. Something must be heating up after 10 minutes and expanding.


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Old 09-18-2013, 11:08 AM   #39
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What would cause this then? I'm lost. Something must be heating up after 10 minutes and expanding.


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Old 09-18-2013, 08:44 PM   #40
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Rear end is definitely tweaked upwards then.
This, sort of. There's something radically wrong that shouldn't be that hard to spot.
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For instance... why is the drive shaft even rubbing in the first place? My driveshaft isn't that close to rubbing anything.
There aren't that many attach points for the diff and subframe. Get a bright light and go look.

http://www.speichers.com/pictures/e3...sp_diagram.jpg

For a far too bizarre theory how about this: When you accelerate, force is applied via the bottom of the rear tires. The reaction to that force rotates the front of the differential upwards and the driveshaft makes contact.
Let it sit for a while and the caster slowly lets whatever is broken lower the front of the diff.

Just for grins, measure the distance from the front of a tire to the fender, go for a rip, measure the distance again. Let it sit and measure again.

Last edited by SubDad; 09-18-2013 at 08:47 PM. Reason: Why does driveshaft rub in the first place?
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:10 PM   #41
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Took it out last night for the last time before I give up. Pulled it in the shop (back end sticking). Pulled the wheels off and the calipers were lava hot. Turns out the back brakes are sticking like nobody's business. Not sure what could be causing it. Didnt stick last year. All I changed was a massive brakes booster delete. Back pads and rotars are fairly new. Could it be the factory bias? Maybe it's clogged. But if I leave it for a night the fluid seeps through and it's fine the next day.


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Old 09-19-2013, 11:53 PM   #42
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didn't you say you deleted the brake bias valve? That is a necessary component
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:37 PM   #43
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Nothing to do with bias valve. With age they lock up, Mine locked at the first autoslalom race, the rear callipers were the only thing that didn't get serviced building the car before the event, had to remove the pads to drive it back on the trailer.

I put a rebuilt set of callipers on and everything was fine
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:22 PM   #44
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Nothing to do with bias valve. With age they lock up, Mine locked at the first autoslalom race, the rear callipers were the only thing that didn't get serviced building the car before the event, had to remove the pads to drive it back on the trailer.

I put a rebuilt set of callipers on and everything was fine
The bias valve regulates the pressure to the rear brakes so that the front brakes do the majority of the work (probably around 65% front, 35% rear). Without any bias the rears are working equally as hard as the front brakes to stop the car, causing them to overheat and seize the piston in the caliper.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:41 PM   #45
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The bias valve regulates the pressure to the rear brakes so that the front brakes do the majority of the work (probably around 65% front, 35% rear). Without any bias the rears are working equally as hard as the front brakes to stop the car, causing them to overheat and seize the piston in the caliper.
Deleting the booster does not delete bias system.

Bias is not changed with the massive lee kit, its just a seized calliper
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