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Old 03-27-2013, 12:18 PM   #31
mr ilia
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is there a trick to undo the break line?
Do I have to undo the nut at the metal line ot the nut at the rubber line?
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:38 PM   #32
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Metal line threads into the rubber line.

PS: I feel your pain. Getting brake lines loose was the hardest part of my subframe refurbishment too.

Last edited by karmatose; 03-27-2013 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:10 PM   #33
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The piece that goes through the little bracket is part of the rubber section. Heat them and grab each poor little fitting with huge vice grips. Or just cut the rubber line and be done with them all :p
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:33 PM   #34
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some made some progress today.... run to can tire after work and picked up a set of flare wrenches....they really helped to break loose the brake lines...

Then I realized I do not have enough room to access the input shaft to disconnect the drive shaft....so I decided to just undo the 4 bolts that hold the diff in the subframe...this has freed up the whole rear assembly enough for me to maneuver it where i would be able to start working on the remains of the old subframe bushings.....

I was able to get the old bushing out completely on the drivers side..by that time it was a little late and I also got tired, so I left the passenger side for tomorrow...I hope to get the other side done tomorrow.

I feel very happy today because I can sort of see the light at the end of the tunnel now.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:41 PM   #35
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I'm pulling for ya, man. Here's some inspiration.

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Old 03-28-2013, 12:50 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karmatose View Post
I'm pulling for ya, man. Here's some inspiration.

More inspiration from when I did mine:

I changed the subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, boots on both sides on both half shafts, wheel bearing on the passenger side, diff mount, diff gasket, diff fluid. All with OEM stuff; not like some people who pushed in their new bushings by hand.

Using the rod method I bent one of the trailing arms in the process of trying to install a trailing arm bushings. Instead of bending it back, I had a guy from California send me a trailing arm that was as minty fresh as my old one. Long story short, that was a $150 lesson (after shipping) I wont be repeating

May I reiterate that using a vise makes pushing the bushings in/out exponentially easier? Honestly, I don't even know why I even attempted the rod method when I had a vise the whole time. With the vise everything came out and went in so smoothly and without issue.


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Old 03-28-2013, 09:42 AM   #37
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Thanks guys.
It must to feel nice having your rear end reabuilt.
Both you are lucky dudes!
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:44 AM   #38
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You'll be enjoying the fruits of your labour soon enough. It'll taste even sweeter because you did it yourself.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:29 AM   #39
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Git 'er dunnn!!

Here's mine...




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Old 03-28-2013, 11:41 AM   #40
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I did a quick search and could not find any DIY for bleeding brakes.
Any tips as how to do this efficiently?? Rear brakes it is.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:48 AM   #41
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A few hours before you start... grab some penetrating oil and spray the bleeder screw. They can be sticky. Better to do this than have the bleeder screw break off (which sucks to deal with).

Anyway, fill your reservoir a bit past "full" go to the rear right. Rig up a pop bottle and some hose and place it over the bleeder screw. Have someone pump the brakes until they start getting firm and have them hold the pedal down. Loosen off the bleeder and the pedal in the car should go to the ground. Repeat this process until the pedal feels firm and there's no bubbles coming out of the fluid into your catch bottle. Then, top up your reservoir and move to the other side. Repeat the process.

Last edited by karmatose; 03-28-2013 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:49 AM   #42
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I'll play ball



I think pelican had a good bleeding DIY. Make sure you know what fluid you will be using, it may be a good idea to put all new fluid in if it hasn't been changed in a while. 2 people and/or a power bleeder are required. A vacuum system or at least tubing with a can are nice to have. All can be found at princess auto. New bleeding screws are usually a good idea as well, they tend to strip
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:58 AM   #43
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fill your reservoir a bit past "full" ...top up your reservoir and move to the other side. Repeat the process.
And make sure to put the cap back on before you start pumping the brakes.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:03 PM   #44
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And make sure to put the cap back on before you start pumping the brakes.
Good call.

Also, it should say it on the brake booster, but DOT4 fluid is required. I ran the Penzoil stuff last year and it was fine, but gonna give the Super Blue a shot this year.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:34 PM   #45
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Is there a special tool needed for the bleed screw?
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