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Old 03-25-2013, 01:25 PM   #16
noid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr ilia View Post
I had a plan to go to Brafasco to get 5/8 lag bolt, since Home Depot and Canadian Tire do not carry bigger than 1/2....If I can get the bushing off with this methid, than It should be easy to get the rest of the job done....I will have to do the trailing arm bushings, but I may have some one else do this for me, since I'm no comfirtable disconnecting rear break lines...
Brake lines are easy to disconnect, its just two flare nuts.

Why are you already anticipating that the inner sleeve of the subframe bushing will get stuck to the car?
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Brake lines are easy to disconnect, its just two flare nuts.

Why are you already anticipating that the inner sleeve of the subframe bushing will get stuck to the car?
lol..because it is...this is the only thing that is holding the subframe to the car...I tried and could get it down because of it...I will try again the the lag bolt method and if no go, i will go to the shop and let them do it..

..I'm not comfortable with the breaks because up on assemly I would have to bleed them and I never done it before...afraid to screw up..

Last edited by mr ilia; 03-25-2013 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:57 PM   #18
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Bleeding the brakes is honestly one of the simplest things you could do, its even easier then an oil change. Just follow the video in the link and you'll be gravy.

Have you knocked both bolts into the cabin? Remember to knock BOTH bolts into the cabin before undoing either of the side mounts.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:18 PM   #19
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I'm sure you could get someone from here to come give you a hand bleeding them
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #20
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The bolts are off and everything is disassembled...the subframe is hanging only with the help of the shocks and the rust from the bushing and frame rails...
I will try to make another attempt tonight and try to separate this sucker....
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:00 PM   #21
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I made some progress today....i went to brafasco and got 5/8 lag bolt and used it along with rust penetrator to knock down the bushing from the car frame....i will continue later on tonight after grocery shopping.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:26 PM   #22
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The old bushings are giving the headache...I tried pressing them out with the piece of pipe between the frame and the bushing and jacking up the subframe ..the bushing would not bulge..so I just drilled it out and now I have only metal sleeve inside the subframe..I tried banging them out with the 2.5 pound hammer, but had a no go....
At this time I'm not sure what I will do next. Will try again in a day or so, i hope to finish it up before the weekend.

It seems like there is no issues left, other than the metal sleeve of the bushing sitting inside the subframe..

Does any one know if Canadian Tire would have any bushing pulling tools available to buy or rent to get it out?

P.s. I will gladly pay some one to come to my house and get these bushing sleeves pulled out.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:58 PM   #23
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There are a few ways you can get the sleeve out.

1. use a sawzall to cut the sleeve out (don't go to far and sawzall the tube itself)

2. Put the lip of the old sleeve in a vise and crimp it until it collapses inward.

3. Get a 1 1/2 pipe and 2 sockets and follow the diagram in the link I provided

Heat helps this whole process. Get a MAPP torch from canadian tire (forget propane that stuff is slow and useless) it comes in a yellow canister and get the according trigger nozzle. The MAPP torch is good for burning out the old bushing and heating the tube to make the sleeve come out easier.

If you continue to be really stuck let me know and maybe you can bring it down to my place (north york) and I can pop them out, and push the new ones in.

Last edited by noid; 03-25-2013 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:29 AM   #24
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I had a plan with doing #1...just to cut the groove and use a screwdriver to collapse it...this is how I did with the front trailing ar bushings...will try again tinight.

Thanks for the offer to bring it in, but the subframe is attached to the car, so it a no go at this time.

So far, I had to fight with something every step of the way.

Quote:
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There are a few ways you can get the sleeve out.

1. use a sawzall to cut the sleeve out (don't go to far and sawzall the tube itself)

2. Put the lip of the old sleeve in a vise and crimp it until it collapses inward.

3. Get a 1 1/2 pipe and 2 sockets and follow the diagram in the link I provided

Heat helps this whole process. Get a MAPP torch from canadian tire (forget propane that stuff is slow and useless) it comes in a yellow canister and get the according trigger nozzle. The MAPP torch is good for burning out the old bushing and heating the tube to make the sleeve come out easier.

If you continue to be really stuck let me know and maybe you can bring it down to my place (north york) and I can pop them out, and push the new ones in.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:59 AM   #25
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Wait -- you still haven't removed the subframe from the car?
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:43 AM   #26
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lol, no. I have no plans removing subframe entirely from the car.. I dropped by like 3 inches and removed the rubber inside the bushing. I will try to get the metal bushing sleeve out tonight.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:23 PM   #27
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I decided to remove the subframe as it is the only way to change the rtabs as well as the main bushings...

Question...how the hell do you remove the brake lines???

I made a flare wrench 11 and 14 but it feels like they will round the corners ...Canadian tire does not have flare wrench in 14mm...crap.

I spayed wd40 all over the connection point and left it as it is for now.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:30 PM   #28
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if you round em off you can still use vice grips to take the fittings apart
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:52 PM   #29
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Ya worst case use vice grips... Ideal would be new fittings on reinstall anyhow.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:39 PM   #30
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When I did my subframe bushings, I put in new hard lines because I mangled the old fittings trying to get them out nicely. Ended up just using heat and vice grips to break it free. Just went to NAPA and bought a pre-flared stretch of pipe with the right fittings on it and bent it to shape around a beer bottle. So much easier than trying to save the old ones.

Also the new fittings on the pre-flared hard line were super beefy compared to what was on the car. Should make things really easy if there's a next time.
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