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Old 03-13-2013, 06:01 PM   #16
E36 Power
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Im just nervous and not comfortable banging that hard on headers which the vibrations shoot through the motor haha

Call me crazy, but just doesnt seem to be best hammering away at them lol
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:04 PM   #17
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Yeah that's why I ground them down and drilled them out. It's a huge pain in the ass and you need to be dead on with your drilling because the cast iron header is softer that the bolt. Good luck!!!
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:47 PM   #18
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How did you drill them out if the tops have the flat end?

Id have to drop the drive shaft to get a really good angle to get at all six

Or would I just drill in a smaller bolt to the middle and then tighten that and keep going which would force it out the other end??

You ground down the opposite ends top? its a concave top from what my fingers felt reaching up. The replacements are a regular bolt that a socket could fit on top.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:20 PM   #19
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For the header, get a real torch - Oxyacetylene... hopefully you know how to use it. heat the flange till it's red hot and use vise grip on the studs. If that fails, use the torch to cut them out.... the proper way - oxygen cutting. This is how the mechanics do it. Do this ONLY if you know what you're doing or else you will trash the header.

FYI - if you are doing the latter, you heat the stud red hot and then oversaturate the torch mixture with Oxygen which starts a reaction with the hot metal, essentially burning it away. You should be left with the threaded bolt holes which should be cleaned up, preferably with a tap and cutting fluid, and it should be ready for new studs.

Btw - those extractors -SUCK!!! Sometimes they work, but you gotta be super desparate to try those. If your bolt head snapped or stripped it because it's seized, you really need to do something to the seized part first. What's the likelyhood the extractor can provide more torque than the original bolt?

Aren't the bolts 12 point torx? Hopefully you have the correct socket.

One more tip for next time... if you strip the screw or bolts' head, try and cut a slot in it and use a flathead screwdriver. You'll prolly need a dremel or grinder with a cutting wheel - depending on the size. Most of the time, the heat from the cutting will be enough to unseize your boo boo and it'll come out. Your axle flange screws are pretty long though. I don't think this would have worked in this case.

Did you get it off yet?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:21 AM   #20
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The 2 axle bolts are taken care of it

I popped them apart and had enough to grab via vice grip and soaked in PB over night

I was using the correct socket but when theyre nearly a circle to begin with because of lazy workmanship of other mechanics, then youre SOL!

I dont know about those torches nor do I know about the oxygen cutter

Im going to disconnect the O2 sensor today, heat them up and give them a whack. I really dont like banging the headers like that slash banging an engine like that. It cannot be good

Theres gotta be another way. hm
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:49 AM   #21
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Actually if you try to buy studs from BMW you will get a bolt and a nut. So yes bolts and nuts are fine.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:49 AM   #22
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Good for you!!!!

I know what you mean - the 12 point "torx" don't have much meat. They should have just used 6 points or something bigger.

Definitely try heat, even if it's propane. All it takes it for the metals to expand at different rates to "crack" the seized part and it should start coming loose.

If the O2 sensor is easy to remove, do it ... Otherwise, the header gets pretty hot anyway so I wouldn't be too concerned about heat.

Good luck!!!
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:04 AM   #23
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Those 12 point torx are so fragile too I feel like. Really PITA!

Its not the heat im worried about. Its my mini sledge hammer whacking at those bolts!
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:12 PM   #24
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Have u looked into getting a set of long tube header, even the eBay headers are decent, probley less work to get rid of the cast headers and go this way, plus you'll have a better exhaust system when your done.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:05 PM   #25
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I havent looked into that no

I really dont even want to remove the headers. First time really wrenching the car and dropping the subframe was great and pretty easy and I feel like the projects are piling up.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E36 Power View Post
Those 12 point torx are so fragile too I feel like. Really PITA!

Its not the heat im worried about. Its my mini sledge hammer whacking at those bolts!
Since they're studs, you do have to unscrew them. Hammering is only to try and loosen. Heat is better....
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:27 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windwagen View Post
Since they're studs, you do have to unscrew them. Hammering is only to try and loosen. Heat is better....
They are splined studs, hammer is the way to remove them.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:35 PM   #28
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Ahhhh.... In that case, they should pop out no problem. Use a drift punch to get better access.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:19 PM   #29
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You've never done this before, have you? Nothing ever pops out on an exhaust, especially that close to heat.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:24 PM   #30
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headers bring their own set of grief.

You need to trick the ECU into thinking that the AIR pump is working.

There's not a whole lot of power to be had either.
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