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Old 06-06-2012, 09:58 PM   #46
Blackedout95
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@RMP, sorry if I confused you in this thread with another shop for some stuff but I still stand by a shop asking WHY at the least or what led to this conclusion etc before performing a job. Just my opinion, it isn't the law or a code all mechanics follow just how I see things. If someone drives into the shop and says they need an oil service and we see based on km's that is the case we don't ask why but when they say change these bolts under my hood, we do. Depends on the job but you get my drift.

Also I agree with Philly, the issue can be found with enough effort but the OP said he was in a rush so...

Also it would be more time and economically efficient to find the issue FIRST. Why remove and tear down potentially the same sus components twice, remove the wheels etc? I understand how that works better for a shop per hour but not a customer. Again not the law just how I see it
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:10 AM   #47
RMPMOTORS
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I do understand what you are saying and I agree. The customer only came to our shop once about the vibration and a stalling issue that another shop could not find. We found the stalling issue and repaired it, and thrust arms that were worn but the customer declined the repair at the time.

I just didn't want us to be confused with the other shop that just changed parts with no success , thats not what we do, we actually did not install any parts his stalling problem was repaired during the diagnostic process at no extra charge .

Also the vanos bolts that we changed on the other customers car you are speaking of are a high failure point on the s54, we change them at the same time as inspecting vanos hub that also fails often, and performed a valve adjustment. It's actually more of a preventive maintainance on the s54.

I hope this clears this up for you.
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:45 PM   #48
Blackedout95
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Well that makes a difference, no harm then, sorry to have confused you, I know you guys do good work.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:17 PM   #49
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Ok - If I read your last symptoms posting and nothing else in this thread, I would look for a bump on the tire. Use the tips I wrote.

Or, if you need some help, you can come to my place in Markham. I've got a floor jack and a 2x4

send me a PM if interested
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:31 PM   #50
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Thanks a lot man. I really appreciate it. The thing that disturbs me the most is this:

After getting my new tires, new rotors, sanded brake pads, and aligned and balanced wheels the car started shaking violently as I was taking it out of the shop! Even the mechanic was clueless as of why that was happening. The whole car shock, even at idle, to the degree where I was scared of driving it! That kept happening for a day or two then went away.

But, I keep thinking whatever caused that shake could be responsible for either both or at least one of the shakes: the slow speed shake and high speed shake.

Anyway, I started a new job this week so I can't take a day off to take the car to the mechanic. But thankfully my new job is in Woodbridge so I am close to RMP Motors. I am planning to go see them next week hopefully.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:47 AM   #51
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Ok, so I had the thrust arms replaced at RMP Motors and the car feels so much better now. The front wheels and steering wheel feel much tighter. The front end doesn't tremble when I hit an uneven surface any more (such as when entering a parking lot). The shimmy has been greatly reduced but it's still there, and I feel it especially between 120-125km/h. I feel this shimmy mainly in the gas pedal, floor of the car, and seats a bit.

I wish I can just go to a mechanic once and he tells me, "Fadi, this is what is wrong with your car. This is why it shakes at 120km/h!" Of course, life is not perfect and so are people, and mechanics are just human beings who try their best.

I just want to clarify that Rocco did not say replacing the thrust arms will solve the shimmy problem but he did say it will solve the trembling in the steering wheel when braking and the car will feel so much better to drive. And he was right: the steering wheel is so smooth now, and the front end feel so much tighter too. Actually, even the shimmy problem has been reduced a lot but it's still there around 120km/h.

I am very glad I replaced the thrust arms because the car drives so much better now, but I also noticed it's pulling to the left now. Driving on the highway, I constantly have to adjust the steering wheel because of that. Of course, after any change to the front wheels (such as replacing the thrust arms) I expect the car needs alignment, but I've already done that twice in the last 3 months and I am about to give up on this car. I know it's a great car but I feel that I am not getting any where with fixing it. I just can't afford to spend time and money on it without any results. I just want the shake problem being solved once and for all.

I am going to call Darren to see if the warranty of the tires and rotors allow me to replace them. The tires because they don't seem even when run on a balancing machine--at least to my untrained eyes. (Would road force balance solve this problem? I don't know. You tell me.) And the rotors because when braking there is a slight uneven feeling in the brakes.

Oh, I also want to thank Rocco so much for fixing my front bumper without charging me or even me asking for it! The car's right side of the front bumper was loose and I wasn't very excited about going on long trips with it like that, but thanks to Rocco now I am confident again to go places with the car. To be honest, I was happier about the bumper being fixed than the thrust arms!

PS: My car is really a great drive but I am one of those people who pick on every little thing. Every one who test drives it tells me that it's a great drive and better than anything they've driven. But I am not satisfied with that--I want that shimmy problem solved or at least identified.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:30 PM   #52
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Ok, to elaborate on this shimmy issue: it comes at 120km/h and above. So I still feel it all the way up to 140km/h. And I also feel it in the steering wheel, as well as the brake pads, and the floor of the car.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:50 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wc123wc View Post
The tires because they don't seem even when run on a balancing machine--at least to my untrained eyes.
Please tell me these are NEW tires.... If it's that obvious, then this is clearly your problem. Do you have 16" or 17" wheels? The bigger the wheels, the more sensititve to imperfections - low profile rubber is less compliant. On top of that, these cars are more "precise" than let's say ...a Ford, Camry, etc. so you feel much more, even the annoying stuff.
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:19 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wc123wc View Post
Ok, so I had the thrust arms replaced at RMP Motors and the car feels so much better now. The front wheels and steering wheel feel much tighter. The front end doesn't tremble when I hit an uneven surface any more (such as when entering a parking lot). The shimmy has been greatly reduced but it's still there, and I feel it especially between 120-125km/h. I feel this shimmy mainly in the gas pedal, floor of the car, and seats a bit.

PS: My car is really a great drive but I am one of those people who pick on every little thing. Every one who test drives it tells me that it's a great drive and better than anything they've driven. But I am not satisfied with that--I want that shimmy problem solved or at least identified.
I have the same issue... VERY minor shimmy at exactly that same speed... (120) - goes away above that speed and below that speed. RMP is quite familiar with my car as they have helped me maintain it to pristine shape for years (350K now). I apologize but I do not recall what Rocco's hypothesis is for that tiny shake in my car at that speed but he did do a thorough inspection on it and drove it the last time I was there last week. In my case it is a very minor tremble at exactly that speed and I too am very nitpicky about the driving dynamics of my car but chose to hold on this for now and monitor to see if it gets worse.

I will mention it to him again and let you know if he recalls what it was on my car - maybe it will help you out too.

Is your steering wheel vibration during braking resolved now? If not I can tell you from my experience that I had the same issue as well and the root cause was warped front rotors. I drive about 50K a year (mostly hwy so not a lot of braking at all) and I had my brakes done at BMW about 21 months ago so they replaced my rotors and pads under warranty - that solved this problem entirely.
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:38 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedemn View Post
I have the same issue... VERY minor shimmy at exactly that same speed... (120) - goes away above that speed and below that speed. RMP is quite familiar with my car as they have helped me maintain it to pristine shape for years (350K now). I apologize but I do not recall what Rocco's hypothesis is for that tiny shake in my car at that speed but he did do a thorough inspection on it and drove it the last time I was there last week. In my case it is a very minor tremble at exactly that speed and I too am very nitpicky about the driving dynamics of my car but chose to hold on this for now and monitor to see if it gets worse.

I will mention it to him again and let you know if he recalls what it was on my car - maybe it will help you out too.

Is your steering wheel vibration during braking resolved now? If not I can tell you from my experience that I had the same issue as well and the root cause was warped front rotors. I drive about 50K a year (mostly hwy so not a lot of braking at all) and I had my brakes done at BMW about 21 months ago so they replaced my rotors and pads under warranty - that solved this problem entirely.
Thanks for the reply. I wish all replies were this helpful and polite! Fixing my car is on hold these few weeks. I will keep you updated as soon as I get the chance to look into it.
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:02 PM   #56
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Ok, I think I know the reason of why my car had a shimmy. I am posting this to help other BMW drivers in case they have the same problem.

My car was in an accident and I decided to replace it than repair it. So I took an E39 to Mechanic 2 for a pre-purchase inspection. The car was in a very good condition mechanically and cosmetically (inside and out), but it had a shimmy at 120km when the mechanic and I test drove it. It was the same shimmy my old E39 had: I felt it in the floor of the car. Mechanic 2 told me that he is 99.9% sure it is the tires. So I went back to the dealer and told him about the shimmy and he swapped the summer tires with winter tires and we went for a test drive, and sure enough the shimmy was gone.

This is kind of sad because the tires I had on my old E39 were new Yokohama TRZ tires, that were recommended and installed by another mechanic (Mechanic 1). I spent hundreds of dollars on new tires that shimmy! To solve the problem of the shimmy Mechanic 1 said I needed a new driver-side drive shaft which cost me $420 and solved nothing. (Afterwards, he even dared to suggest I needed a passenger-side drive shaft!) Anyway, I stopped going to Mechanic 1.

In conclusion: if you have the same shimmy problem, try to swap your tires to eliminate them as the source of the shimmy before you let any mechanic replace parts that are not broken and waste your time and money.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:17 PM   #57
Alexmsk77
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recommend that you read the information about the repair kits for BMW vanos online
www.vanos-bmw.com
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:12 AM   #58
wc123wc
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UPDATE:

1) Low speed wobble (below 40km/h; rush-hour speed) and high speed steering wheel shimmy (between 110 and 120 km/h; highway speed) are gone with the new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires (balanced). I just got the Michelin tires today and I LOVE them! Smooth, comfortable, and extremely quiet!

2) Mid speed steering wheel shimmy (between 80 and 90 km/h) is gone by replacing the thrust arms.
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:08 PM   #59
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*Correction: Michelin Pilot HX MXV4
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