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Old 05-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #106
everlast
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This is a *really* informative thread. I'm learning a lot, keep it up!!
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:47 PM   #107
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Damn great info... I'm addicted to this build...
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2003 BMW 330i M-sport AA SC 5-speed -SOLD
2006 BMW 330i 6-speed black SOLD
2001 BMW X5 4.4 - Auto - black on black - SOLD
1989 BMW 535i - 5-speed - black -SOLD (kept M30B35/tranny for E30)

1985 BMW 325 E 5-speed (new project)
1987 BMW 325 5-speed - work in progress
http://bmw325e30.blogspot.com/
Part 2 (Supercharger/turbo build)
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:21 PM   #108
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me too, you're basically laying out all the things I'll be doing in the next little while, getting my stroker together. Thanks for all the great pics.
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:10 AM   #109
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awesome build m8!! m20 stroker all the way
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:27 PM   #110
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Update:

I've got the bottom end internals assembled now.

Bare block...



Bearing shells installed...



Crank dropped in (after putting a dab of oil on each shell)...



To check the bearing clearance cut a piece of plastigauge and lay it across the crank journal (make sure to wipe oil off the journal surface)....



Then install the other half of the bearing into the shell. Apply a thin layer of oil to prevent the plastigauge from sticking to the shell. Then install the cap and torque the main bolts to spec. Then loosen the bolts off and remove the cap, all the while being careful not to rotate the crank at all. When you remove the cap you should see something like this...




Compare the width of the flattened plastigauge to the scale that comes with the plastigauge to determine the bearing clearance. For a yellow classification bearing (which is what I have installed) the main bearing clearance is supposed to be 0.020-0.046mm. As you can see in the pictures above the plastigauge is wider than the 0.038mm bar, but not wider than the 0.025mm bar, therefore the clearance is between 0.025-0.038mm which is right on spec. Also make sure to keep an eye out for any taper in the width of the flattened strip indicating uneven wear of the bearing surface.

Then clean off the plastigauge from the bearing surfaces, oil up, reinstall, and re-torque the bearing cap. Do this for all 7 main bearings...



To check the rod clearances I'd rotate the crank to the position I wanted then use the timing belt and a pair of vise grips to lock the crank in place because I found it hard to keep the crank and rod from rotating during the process of installing the rod and torquing the cap on...



Repeat the same process for the plastigauge on the rod bearings...




For the rod bearing the clearance for standard bearings is 0.030-0.070mm. As you can see above the plastigauge was wider than 0.051mm but narrower than 0.038mm so the clearance was between 0.038-0.051mm, once again right in spec.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:27 PM   #111
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Before I installed the rods and pistons I checked the balance of the rods. I checked all the wrist pin ends using this set-up...



And then I checked the overall weights. The rods were all pretty much within +/- 1 gram of each other so I didn't fuss at all with balancing them.

I also checked the piston ring gaps before I installed them. Just pop a ring into a bore and use a piston to square it up, then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap in the ring. My ring gaps were right on the outer limit of the tolerance because after being de-glazed my bore diameters are on the outer limit of the tolerance.

Installing the pistons is straight forward. Install the rings making sure the gaps are properly separated. Use a piston ring compressor to compress the rings leaving a bit of the skirt exposed so you can sit the piston in the bore...



Tap the piston in until it pops out of the ring compressor...



Then turn the block over, push the piston until the bearing shell seats on the journal, apply a dab of oil to the journal, install the rod cap and bearing, and finally torque to spec. Repeat 5 more times and your're done...



That's all for now!
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:45 PM   #112
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So thanks to a member on another forum pointing out that I checked my valve to piston clearance at max lift when I should have done it at TDC... which I knew but for some reason had a brain fart and did it at max lift...I double checked the valve to piston clearance again yesterday. I used some clay this time and found that the exhaust side is ok, but on the intake side I only have a whopping 0.5mm or so which is far from enough and seems like far too little for Schrick to not specify that the 284 cam requires deeper valve reliefs. I'm going to double check the cam timing again tomorrow just to make sure that the cam gear didn't slip or anything causing the timing to advance. And if the VTP clearance is still too little I'll be pulling the bottom end apart so I can machine some larger reliefs for the intake valves.

One step forward... two steps back... but it's better than revving a fresh motor for the first time and hammering the valves!
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:08 PM   #113
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Progress update: Things are back on track...

So as I mentioned, I checked my valve to piston clearance (the proper way) and found that my clearance on the intake valve was this much...



Since that was not enough I took the bottom end apart so that I could machine the intake valve relief deeper on each piston. After scrounging around at work I found this nice dividing head with tilt adjustment tucked away in a crate of random tooling that was bought at an auction and never used. After cleaning it and lubing it I set it up on the mill...



The tool I used to cut the valve relief was pretty ghetto as well. As you can see it was a simple boring head meant for fairly large diameters. Instead I just stuck the sharpened bar of HSS on an angle in the middle at approximately the proper radius and locked it down with the set screws in the tool. To set the angle and find the center of the pocket I just lined everything up as closely as I could by eye. I would mark each pocket with marker and take a light cut to check the set-up and make small tweaks as necessary. Here's a before and after picture...



As you can see I didn't have the diameter set exactly to the relief diameter, but rather than having to brake the ghetto ass set-up on my cutting tool I opted to just clean up the edge with a rotary tool after the fact. Here's a couple pictures after I cleaned up that edge...




So this evening I slapped the bottom end back together and checked my valve to piston clearance. I was happy to see this when I cut through the clay...



The clearance is now ~1.8mm

That's all for now.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:00 AM   #114
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That head is a great tool! I've got to cut reliefs and that sure would be handy. I think I have a way though.

They should all be pretty close, but did/will you check balance again?
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:10 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supernaught View Post
That head is a great tool! I've got to cut reliefs and that sure would be handy. I think I have a way though.

They should all be pretty close, but did/will you check balance again?
Yes, I double checked the weights of all the pistons again and they were all still within +/- 1g of each other, which is expected because I took out the same amount of material from each piston.
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:22 AM   #116
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good deal. I was just thinking in terms of lining things up by eye, I can see the process being the same for each piston though. Keep the progress rolling.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:22 AM   #117
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dont forget to round the edges!
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:03 PM   #118
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Update: Not so much...

So on the weekend I went to start putting together the rest of the motor. After installing the front cover with new seals and a new gasket I move up to the water pump and as I'm installing the water pump bolts I notice that one of the bolts isn't snugging down, it won't hold any torque, so before I strip anything I take the water pump off to inspect the threads. I guess at some point in time the previous owner changed the water pump and in the process snapped a bolt head off (maybe even two because two of the three water pump bolts were newer and slightly longer) and in order to fix it they drilled out the old bolt and re-tapped the hole. This would have been fine had it been done correctly however the tap drill that was used was way oversize and it ended up leaving no meat for the tap to cut threads.

So that pretty much derailed me from making any more progress this past weekend. In order to properly remedy the issue, today I got an M8x1.25 helicoil and installed it...

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/s...rebuild304.jpg

Things are now back on track until the next problem arises
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:16 PM   #119
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Quick update: Motor is mostly assembled.

I spent a couple hours this evening and assembled most of the motor. After getting the water pump and tensioner installed I went to install the head. Now I know this one has been beaten to death already, but just to show everyone the difference between the Victor Reinz and Goetze head gaskets:

The gasket on the motor is the Goetze and the one still in the plastic is the Victor Reinz. You can see that the sealing strip on the Goetze is much beefier than on the Victor Reinz





After torquing the head on I installed the exhaust manifold studs and popped the valve cover on. Things are coming together....



I also got news today that the RD headers I ordered are finally ready. They are only 7 weeks late... but better late then never right .

That's all for now.
Cheers.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:27 PM   #120
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