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Old 04-19-2012, 10:09 AM   #91
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I like the way you think sir
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:17 PM   #92
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I like that idea, very interesting. How important is balance on that gear? would it be too confusing to alternate the hole pairs in a star pattern to balance it? Maybe its not necessary?
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:36 PM   #93
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I like that idea, very interesting. How important is balance on that gear? would it be too confusing to alternate the hole pairs in a star pattern to balance it? Maybe its not necessary?
Someone else brought up the issue of balance on another forum. Technically the plate will be out of balance, but practically, since the largest variance in hole location from side to side is only +/- 3 degrees, and it's on a short radius, and the amount of material being removed is pretty small relative to the overall weight of the plate the imbalance is negligible. I used solidworks to check the centre of gravity of the part and it shifted off of the rotational axis by 0.006mm which is so little that it might as well be 0.

It is a valid concern though and it was definitely worth verifying.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:03 AM   #94
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Great idea for the gear adjustment!
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:17 PM   #95
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Update time:

Much to my excitement I came home from work today to find a big ol' pile of parts in the garage...

This was sitting on the work bench...



Ask an oriental man to say slick and it'll sound like....



That's a Schrick looking cam...
(p.s. I've got plenty of oriental friends so I feel like I can make that joke lol)



Next up is the #becauseracecar part. I ordered the 2.7 scraper because it's stroke is close to the 2.8 crank. I'll need to adjust the clearances a bit so it won't rub




And the rest of the internals, seals, hardware, etc...



And yes you saw correctly, all those bits were sitting in front of a stack of new Toyo R888s which I got a wicked deal on...



And not directly related to the engine build, but still important...



My current tank has a hole rotted on the top left side somewhere because when it's more than half full a quick left will leave the cabin with the smell of spilt gas. I figured if I'm going to be dropping the exhaust and drive shaft to swap the motor it will be as good a time as any to swap the tank out...



And to finish off the update, I'm almost done making the adjustable cam gear. I just need to drill and tap the holes around the outside and then separate the gear into two pieces...



I'm going to try and get the head assembled this weekend and then finish up the cam gear on Monday so I can work on setting the timing and checking the valve to piston clearance next week.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:56 PM   #96
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Insane!

Gonna be a great all around e30!
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:43 PM   #97
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Insane!

Gonna be a great all around e30!
Except for the shitty body on the car lol...
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:06 PM   #98
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So I spent the afternoon yesterday assembling the head:

Here is the workroom in the basement with parts scattered across the bench along with some of the mess left over from my brother who had just finished rebuilding his dirt bike motor...



First order of business (after giving everything a final wash and blow off with the compressor) was the valve stem seals. This is probably common knowledge, but I found that an 11mm socket with a long extension made it extremely simple to install the valve seals. The socket will hold onto the seal, even when you turn it upside down, and exert force evenly around the outer edge...



The long extension gives you a bit more room to push, and they push on pretty easily...



Once all the valve seals were installed the springs had to be installed. This part of the assembly actually went a lot smoother than I had anticipated once I figured out a good way to do it. The tricky part is installing the keepers and having them stay in place as you decompress the valve springs. My method which seemed to work well was as follows. Once I had the spring compressed I'd put a drop of oil on the keeper grooves of the valve stem. Then I'd put a drop of oil on the grooves of each keeper. Using a pair of needle nose pliers I'd place the keeper on the bottom side of the valve stem. Now if you have enough oil there, the surface tension should be strong enough to hold it in place. Then I'd rotate the keeper I just installed to the top side of the valve stem. Then using the pliers again I'd install the second keeper. Once both keepers were installed I'd rotate them so that the split was vertical just so that gravity wouldn't be pulling on one more than the other.



Then rather than releasing the cam lock on the spring compressor I'd decompress the spring by loosening the adjustable pad that's clamping against the valve head (red arrow). This allowed me to ensure that the keepers seated properly in the retainer before releasing the cam lock. I felt that this was a better method than just outright releasing the cam lock and hoping the keepers don't go shooting across the room.



So after not too long the springs were installed...



Then it was time to install the cam and rockers. As I mentioned back in the original post I'm using the IE HD rockers. Here is a comparison between OEM and the HD for those of you who aren't familiar with them...



As you can see where the adjustable eccentric is has been beefed up substantially...



A few more minutes gone by and voilą! My first assembled head....



I spent today giving the old M20 it's last valve adjustment before it get's pulled so it's sounding nice and tight for auto-x next weekend. I also fiddled around with the turbo heap as it will be going on the road within a week!
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:36 AM   #99
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any new updates?
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:02 PM   #100
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any new updates?
Not much to report. Other commitments ate up most of my spare time this week.
On Monday evening I threw a piston and rod in cyl #1 and bolted the head on with the old (already squished) head gasket. Then I got all the other bits put on so I could put the timing belt back on in order to time the camshaft and check valve to piston clearance. If all is well on that end then I'll pull the head back off and check the bearing clearances on the bottom end. I'm hoping to get that done this weekend so I can get the motor assembled next week.

I'll report back with pictures when I have them.
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:14 PM   #101
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Not much to report. Other commitments ate up most of my spare time this week.
On Monday evening I threw a piston and rod in cyl #1 and bolted the head on with the old (already squished) head gasket. Then I got all the other bits put on so I could put the timing belt back on in order to time the camshaft and check valve to piston clearance. If all is well on that end then I'll pull the head back off and check the bearing clearances on the bottom end. I'm hoping to get that done this weekend so I can get the motor assembled next week.

I'll report back with pictures when I have them.
Holy crap! Was I blind not to see this build!?!? Your build is coming along amazing man... you got the same laptop I got...and basement workshop ..LOL...

I willl be doing the same but with a M30 motor... project on the backburner..!!
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:56 PM   #102
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Holy crap! Was I blind not to see this build!?!? Your build is coming along amazing man... you got the same laptop I got...and basement workshop ..LOL...

I willl be doing the same but with a M30 motor... project on the backburner..!!
Thanks Denny. You missed it because you were too busy busting out your F/I build. 6 months is a pretty quick turn around time to design and build your own S/C set-up in your spare time.. Comparatively if this build finishes when I want it to it will have taken me about 6 months.

The M30 is a torque beast. I'll be looking forward to seeing your build thread for that.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:54 PM   #103
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Awesome work on the head rebuild, looks good.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:26 PM   #104
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Unfortunately this weekend turned out to be a bust in terms of progress on the build. Saturday I was tinkering with my other car and subsequently drove it on the road insured and plated for the first time that evening

Sunday I went to time my cam, but part way into things realized that the indicator I was using only had 9mm of useful travel and my cam has over 10mm of lift. I tried taking measurements without doing a full revolution by rotating clockwise and counter clockwise over the top of the lobe, but due to backlash in the timing belt system I didn't like the variation in results I was getting. So I checked the princess auto website and saw that they have a cheap 1" travel indicator. I went to buy one and they were sold out. Bummer. Then I went to Canadian Tire and bought some plastigauge but by the time I got home I was bummed out from not getting the indicator I needed and feeling pretty lazy (it was Sunday after all) so I just decided to pack it in and go watch some touring car racing on speed.

Princess auto is supposed to be getting more in this week and they are supposed to call me when that happens. In the mean time I going to start doing some tuning on my other car (just paid for Tunerstudio registration so I can use VE.A.L.) and try to find a local shop that can hook me up with various lengths and bends of SS tubing for when I need to mock up my exhaust.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:18 AM   #105
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Small update:

Princess Auto called me yesterday to tell me my indicator was in. I picked it up today after work and got the motor timed this evening...

I already had all the front bits put on from my unsuccessful timing attempt on the weekend...



A shot of the DIY adjustable cam gear (still missing some hardware on the outer ring)...



Instead of buying a fancy degree wheel, I printed a degree scale I found online and glued it to a heavy piece of cardboard. Couple that with a piece of wire attached to the block and a dial indicator and we're good to go!...




Set the indicator up on the valve spring retainer and make sure that it's parallel to the valve stem...



To time the cam I did the following:

- With the motor at TDC (lining up the mark on the timing cover with the O|T mark on the toothed wheel) set the wire indicator on the degree wheel to line up with the TDC mark on the degree wheel
- Rotate the motor clockwise while keeping an eye on the dial indicator. As the valve opens the needle on the indicator will turn counter-clockwise, when you reach max lift the needle will stop. At this point zero the dial on the indicator.
- Continue rotating the motor clockwise and stop when the dial is reading 0.020" past max lift. Write down the degree that the wire indicator is pointing to.
- Continue rotating the motor clockwise, as you approach max lift stop 0.020" before max lift. Write down the degree that the wire indicator is pointing to.
- Add the first number to the second number and divide it by two to get the degree value for your peak timing.

When I first checked the timing I measured it to be 112 degrees which is 2 degrees retarded. I expected the timing to be retarded because of the 0.5mm the block was shaved plus the head getting shaved as well. So since every degree the crank turns the cam gear turns 0.5 degrees I advanced the cam gear by 1 degree using my dowel pin adjustment method. Then I checked the timing again using the method described and it was on 110 degrees as it is supposed to be .

After that I checked valve to piston clearance. In order to do that I turned the cam to max lift. Then I used a wood chisel (with some tape on it to prevent damaging any parts) and the rocker arm as a pivot to lift the rocker until the valve contacted the piston...



Keeping an eye on the indicator I measured approximated 0.090" (2.28mm) clearance, I also had my valve lash set to zero so in reality I'll have an extra 0.25mm so overall approximately 2.5mm clearance which is adequate.

So now the next step is checking main and rod bearing clearances.

To be continued...
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