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12-16-2011, 08:51 AM
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#1
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: London Ontario
Posts: 116
Car: Too many
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Jack stands, ramp stands, etc.
So I just read this thread and can't get it out of my mind: I'm thinking twice about using the Certified brand Canadian Tire 3-ton jacks I have after one of the guys calculated that it would only take 90 lbs of force to release the stand. They don't have the safety pins and from the site it doesn't look like any of them have a safety pin.
I bought those plastic ramps from Part Source that I can't even drive up with my e46 so I've been jacking it up from the lift points and placing the car on the ramp one wheel at a time. Feels really unsafe getting it up on that second ramp because all the weight is now on that first ramp; maybe I'm being paranoid.
I really like the idea of a ramp or a stacked solution (seen home brews that use interlocking, stacked 2x6s, but I'd rather have steel).
Besides getting a lift, what's some Canadian/USA made ramp stands you'd recommend?
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1991 Alpine II BMW 318iS
2002 Indigo Blue VW GTI 1.8T
2003 BMW Oriental Blue 330i M-Tech
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12-16-2011, 09:48 AM
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#2
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Vtec just kicked in
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: TO
Posts: 2,394
Car: 99 S52
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Im not a fan of running those adjustable jackstands at any raised height. its normal height is what I use. read way to many times of people knocking them down and dying. i just dont trust the design with no safety back up.
when you jack up the second side not all the weight is on that first ramp...your jack has most of that side you are on.
you can make some home made wood supports if you wish. no not cinder blocks(DONT EVER use that). wood is fine if dont properly. even 2x4's done right would work.
google around. they dont use wood for cribbing for no reason/or because its unsafe.
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-||Old Crayons||-
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12-16-2011, 10:11 AM
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#3
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4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Steel City
Posts: 716
Car: M3,328is,F250, CRV
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I have cut myself 4 10"x10" wood beams about 18 inches high to sit my car on, stable as can be
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03 AW on LSB M3 coupe, BMW motorsport 4.10 Diff, AA Exhaust, OEM CSL rims, Aero Res, TMS subframe, powerflex bshgs, Macht Schnell, Vorsteiner diffuser, TMS steel lines etc..
Complete Comp Pkg Upgrade
98 328is hamann HM2,3.23 diff, ZKW headlights, HID fogs, M3 front, sides, rear and mirrors.UUC rsc36 exhaust, fk coilovers, X brace,UUC tran mounts. Spal fan, Mishimoto rad, AKG rtab, Pweflex CAB. Rogue RSM,SS clutch line, m3 subframe plates, pf bushs
09 F250, 2012 Honda CRV winterbeater
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12-16-2011, 11:24 AM
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#4
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Hatters gon Hatt
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 5,032
Car: 318is roadtriper
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woooooooooood it up
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12-16-2011, 11:29 AM
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#5
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12 Years with the E30
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: St. Catharines
Posts: 1,121
Car: 325i 1987
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They should be fine. Firstly you need to apply upward pressure on the lever who is going to put 90lb of upward pressure on the bloody lever while under the car? Not me.
I've used the lever style supports for years, what I do is place the stand (lever down) and then let the stand take the load. I usually keep the jack in position at the lift point (unless I really need that space) to be there as a backup just in case. You can do the same as other people suggest and use some 4x4's or whatever.
When I did my rear subframe I but a few old tires/rims under the bottom of the spare wheel tub, and some 4x4's along the sides of the car. Worked fine and I felt safe.
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Performance one step at a time.
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12-16-2011, 06:03 PM
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#6
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Driving in the fast lane
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Missed in 'sauga
Posts: 2,926
Car: e38 Sport, e63
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Those plastic ramps are rated at 2500 lbs each. I've used them for my truck this year and love them compared to my 20+ yr old metal ramps. The adjustable ramps always recommend jack stands when getting under any vehicle.
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'04 645cic (for sale)
'05 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 CCSB 4x4
'02 Regal LS
'00 740i Sport
'06 330cic vert ZHP (sold)
'00 323i (sold)
'99 328cic vert (sold)
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12-16-2011, 07:15 PM
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#7
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JUICY J CAN'T
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: T.
Posts: 16,975
Car: S54 titties
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I have the plastic ramps, i use them with both my e36's and my wife's suv.
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12-16-2011, 08:47 PM
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#8
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4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: GTA
Posts: 697
Car: 94 325IC
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The plastic ramps are great. I had a metal ramp colapse as I was driving my car onto it. It folded like a cheap lawn chair.
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12-17-2011, 10:59 AM
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#9
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: The Landing
Posts: 1,326
Car: A4,74 TR6, 07 KX250F
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My buddy actually tests motor master parts and of course the jack stands. As he explains, he would not trust anything on the crappy tire jack stands
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12-17-2011, 01:34 PM
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#10
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4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 617
Car: 90 325is DD
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I've used the canadian tire jack stands for years, had my car on them for 3 years straight actually. As long as they are setup correctly and used properly they are perfectly safe.
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328is is no more  new project!
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12-18-2011, 11:00 AM
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#11
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: The Landing
Posts: 1,326
Car: A4,74 TR6, 07 KX250F
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^
I was referring to the ones that will be on the sales floor in the near year.... My bad
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12-22-2011, 10:41 AM
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#12
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1st Gear Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 15
Car: e39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteDice
They should be fine. Firstly you need to apply upward pressure on the lever who is going to put 90lb of upward pressure on the bloody lever while under the car? Not me.
I've used the lever style supports for years, what I do is place the stand (lever down) and then let the stand take the load. I usually keep the jack in position at the lift point (unless I really need that space) to be there as a backup just in case. You can do the same as other people suggest and use some 4x4's or whatever.
When I did my rear subframe I but a few old tires/rims under the bottom of the spare wheel tub, and some 4x4's along the sides of the car. Worked fine and I felt safe.
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+1
I use the stands and always leave the floor jack on the lifting point. I figure multiple independent supports are better than one.
I'll also shove a tire/rim or criss-crossed scrap 4x4's under the rocker panel. Better the car body gets crushed then me.
My parents next door neighbors kid was crushed to death working under his car last summer. It was pretty brutal.
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12-22-2011, 01:43 PM
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#13
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Cars in Perpetual Repair
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Guelph
Posts: 5,217
Car: 328i & 327i turbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiR
you can make some home made wood supports if you wish. no not cinder blocks(DONT EVER use that).
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I agree that if possible you should avoid using concrete block as a means of supporting your car while you work on it, especially in the off chance that you're going to be wildly swinging a hammer while you're under there
That being said... I used concrete block and crappy tire stands at the same time when I did my suspension overhaul
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12-23-2011, 10:05 AM
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#14
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Vtec just kicked in
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: TO
Posts: 2,394
Car: 99 S52
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at least you have stands there.
I wouldnt go under it otherwise.
__________________
-||Old Crayons||-
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12-23-2011, 11:58 AM
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#15
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Cars in Perpetual Repair
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Guelph
Posts: 5,217
Car: 328i & 327i turbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiR
at least you have stands there.
I wouldnt go under it otherwise.
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pffft where's your sense of adventure. It's more of a rush working on your car knowing it might kill you.
8" block has around 2000psi compressive strength anyway so using 2 blocks to hold a portion of the weight of a car that only weighs 2800lbs isn't a huge risk for me personally.
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