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Old 06-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #151
Wuzie
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Eff the weather.

Cant wait to see the paint!
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:58 PM   #152
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Glad it worked out man
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1992 BMW 325i (CHUMPCAR #296 - Metric Homes Racing)
1992 3.0L M52 325i (ex-daily driver - track car only)
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:17 AM   #153
MaxBell
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Hey so everything is ticking along smoothly.

I had a couple little issues that I'll write down for anyone diagnosing problems later.

1. I went to start the car, but didn't start it all the way. (turned it over for a second and then went back to IGN 2) When I let off the key there was a POP. The car ran terrible, shuddering and stalling after a second or two.

SOLUTION? My hose from the ICV to the intake on the M50 had popped out. Pushing it back in fixed the problem.

2. There are a few grounds in the engine bay that are safe to ground things to. These ones, with those little bolt-able shims/clips, are no good.



I had a weird bogging issue that seems to be resolved by moving my harness ground to the strut tower, rather than one of those clip things. (on the inside support of the strut tower)

ALSO (thanks to Everlast)



For some discussion, I've figured out the following so far (prepare for some pretty noob shit)



Is this accurate to how a supercharger would be set up?

I keep seeing a line from the top of the BOVs I look at. Is this a vacuum line? Where does it hook into?

How much custom tuning do I require? Get BMWConnect to write me a chip that I can put into my DME, or do I need Megasquirt/similar?

How big of an intercooler do I require?
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:11 AM   #154
Bullet Ride
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Officially I don't think the colour of the injectors means anything. Just go based off of the part number. You can check that they both have the same pintle design and impedance just to be sure.

That diagram is incorrect. The intercooler has to go between the supercharger and the motor. The goal of the intercooler is to remove heat that was added to the charged air from the compression.

The line on the BOV is a vacuum line, it hooks into the same spot where your fuel pressure regulator gets vacuum. When you go off throttle while under boost, once the throttle plate is closed pressure will continue to build between the compressor and the throttle plate unless it has a way to be released. That’s where the BOV comes in, and that’s why it’s vacuum actuated.

Tuning depends on what your plans are. If you are only going to run one boost level then a chip will be ok. However if you ever want to change pulleys for more boost you'll need to get a new chip.

Air to water intercoolers aren't very big to begin with, so I'd say as big as you can fit.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:27 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
Officially I don't think the colour of the injectors means anything. Just go based off of the part number. You can check that they both have the same pintle design and impedance just to be sure.
What kind of lbs should I go with? Obviously the stock 17# M50 injectors that are in there are too small. What size should I be going with?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
That diagram is incorrect. The intercooler has to go between the supercharger and the motor. The goal of the intercooler is to remove heat that was added to the charged air from the compression.
Does the intercooler go before or after the BOV? Or does it even matter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
The line on the BOV is a vacuum line, it hooks into the same spot where your fuel pressure regulator gets vacuum. When you go off throttle while under boost, once the throttle plate is closed pressure will continue to build between the compressor and the throttle plate unless it has a way to be released. Thatís where the BOV comes in, and thatís why itís vacuum actuated..
So I'd just get a coupling and attach that line to the intake at the same place?

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Tuning depends on what your plans are. If you are only going to run one boost level then a chip will be ok. However if you ever want to change pulleys for more boost you'll need to get a new chip..
Which do you think is more cost effective?

How do I choose what pully to run?

Quote:
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Air to water intercoolers aren't very big to begin with, so I'd say as big as you can fit.
These go on the front clip, the same as a regular air intercooler, correct?

So the main things I need to buy for this are:

1. Supercharger
2. Recirculating BOV (like this one)
3. Air to water Intercooler
4. Pully for the M50 crank
5. Chip
6. Pipes (I found a bunch on ebay, just figure out in the car approx what I need and buy?)
7. Vacuum line for BOV
8. Larger vacuum line for recirculation


Is that generally it?
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:04 PM   #156
Bullet Ride
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I'll start off by saying that most of your questions can be answered by reading this (thanks to Everlast)

https://rapidshare.com/#!download|13...75E90EBF0D|0|0

(password: boost)

And/Or this

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150958

And/Or this

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3237

Now to answer your questions more specifically...

Quote:
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What kind of lbs should I go with? Obviously the stock 17# M50 injectors that are in there are too small. What size should I be going with?
Depends on how much power you are planning on making. Do the few simple calculations found in the links I posted. I'd go for something like a 42# injector. That should be good for around 300whp.

Quote:
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Does the intercooler go before or after the BOV? Or does it even matter?
Some people have a BOV on both sides of the intercooler
It doesn't really matter, as long as it's somewhere between the compressor and the throttle body. If you'r plan is to do a recirculating BOV then it would make sense to have it somewhere just past the outlet of the compressor to reduce the amount of plumbing required.

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So I'd just get a coupling and attach that line to the intake at the same place?
Yeah you can just T off the FPR or you can drill and tap that little plate that bolts in and add a barb to it


Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxBell View Post
Which do you think is more cost effective?

How do I choose what pully to run?

It depends on how comfortable you think you'd be with tuning. There's plenty of good information and resources out there (including a few of the guys on this board) for those interested in learning to tune. It will take a good amount of time an effort compared to just paying someone else for a chip, but at the end of the day you will have learned some valuable skills. Obviously if you're not comfortable with tuning buying a chip will be the most cost effective, because a mistake while tuning (it would have to be a fairly big muck up) can result in things like a blown head gasket or worse

The pulley will depend on the unit. You'll have to do a bit of research to determine what pulley will give you what psi.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxBell View Post
These go on the front clip, the same as a regular air intercooler, correct?
The radiator for the air to water intercooler will have to go on the front clip, but the air to water unit itself is usually tucked in the engine bay somewhere

Here's an M20 with an air to water unit



And a picture of the unit that the M30 TCD kit uses




Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxBell View Post
So the main things I need to buy for this are:

1. Supercharger
2. Recirculating BOV (like this one)
3. Air to water Intercooler
4. Pully for the M50 crank
5. Chip
6. Pipes (I found a bunch on ebay, just figure out in the car approx what I need and buy?)
7. Vacuum line for BOV
8. Larger vacuum line for recirculation

Is that generally it?
3. Is there any reason you are going with air to water instead of air to air? Air to water is more expensive.
4. You need more than a pulley and a belt tensioner. I'd recommend looking at Denny's build. He's already done all the foot work for you.
6. You can buy a kit off ebay that comes with piping and an air to air intercooler for pretty cheap.
8. Whatever the size is that your BOV requires, doesn't have to be vac line, it can be rubber coolant line or w/e.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:36 PM   #157
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Ok, so I've been reading through the resources that Bullet Ride posted. All very informative, but it's like information overload. I'm starting to think I'd like to get into tuning, but I'm not sure yet.

In my continuing efforts to fix that weird random bogging problem I replaced the TPS sensor. Nothing.

I cleaned the MFingMAF again and the issue went away. I'm going to look for a new M50 MAF now.

In other news, body work began the other day. I'm just working on one panel at a time. I think the trunk was RED!! Or red primer was used during a respray?



Trunk > Hood > Fenders > Doors > Body

They're getting sanded, then any small low or high spots will be filled. Dents will be pushed out and, if needed, then filled.

The car will be blocked smooth and checked for more high or low spots. The whole thing will be sprayed with a high build primer and sanded again.

Depending on the surface at that point, it will be primed again and blocked or we will move on to the paint stage.

Paint gets sprayed and then 2 coats of clear will be sprayed. I'm going to then drive it for a few months/store it over the winter so the paint and clear will harden properly.

Next spring when I pull it out, I will start wet sanding it. 1200 > 1500 > 2000 and then polish it to a mirror.

It's going to be a lot of work, but a friend who is helping me achieved this:



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Old 06-10-2012, 11:59 PM   #158
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Ahh so this is the beast Ive heard about! Looks good man!

& cant wait to see yours painted up.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:02 AM   #159
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Ahh so this is the beast Ive heard about! Looks good man!

& cant wait to see yours painted up.
Thanks dude. Yeh my arms hurt just thinking about it.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:59 AM   #160
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If I can offer one tip: do NOT shortcut rust repair. If you think it's "good enough" it's not good enough. If you think it's "overkill", it's adequate. If you think it's "mind blowingly brand new fresh metal with no iron oxide anywhere ever", then its good enough.

There is no buzz kill like a beautiful paint job that rust bubbles 2 months later.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:09 PM   #161
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If I can offer one tip: do NOT shortcut rust repair. If you think it's "good enough" it's not good enough. If you think it's "overkill", it's adequate. If you think it's "mind blowingly brand new fresh metal with no iron oxide anywhere ever", then its good enough.

There is no buzz kill like a beautiful paint job that rust bubbles 2 months later.
Yeh, I'm going crazy with sanding to metal and then acid washing and then using etching primer on the metal.

I've gotta set up a time to come tackle the rocker and quarter panel holes.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:12 PM   #162
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Are you just going to replace the rockers with replacement parts? There is site from the US with really cheap rockers. You could just cut out the parts you need.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:35 PM   #163
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I have clean rockers from Clint. The hole is only about an inch wide, and in a area that has rocker guard.

I'll just cut a stripe out of the rockers and weld in a replacement from the good one I have. Though I'm going to sand it back and make sure it's as small as I think it is.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:42 PM   #164
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Sounds good!! Often the rust comes from the inside out, so the spot is much larger on the inside than the outside. You have to keep cutting out / back the hole until you see the metal is solid.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:30 PM   #165
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Minor update:

The hood, fenders, trunk and passenger side door are done.

Took some hammering to get the metal smooth on the front fenders, where they were bent and some shoddy body work was done. Almost 2/32 of putty in one place!!

Finished cutting the rear fender/quarter panel rust out. Going to tackle the rocker tomorrow.

The drivers door is going to get a dent puller to fix a larger dent that appeared when it was being moved into Ottawa.

Should be ready for priming next weekend!

ALSO FOR FUN:

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