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Old 12-07-2011, 10:00 PM   #16
BrianM
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just want to say wow. I really appreciate all the time that people have put in to help me get started, >hell of a community you've got here. I've got to get to bed early so I'm not going to get into anything major right this second, but mostly I need to reread and absorb anyways haha
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:59 PM   #17
BrianM
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Ok, turns out Richie_999 had just posted an electric puller fan and a old rad on here, so I have just bought that to start backing up my cooling system.

I know it's not an all aluminum rad or anything, but having a stocker means I can do a quick swap if I need, so I'll atleast have some cheap insurance , so I'm pretty pumped to be able to start in the cooling department on minimal dollars

to be continued..
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Old 12-10-2011, 04:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
Those tires aren't officially branded as an r-comp tire are they? I have heard that they act very close to an r-comp, but I haven't seen them advertised as an r-comp tire.
You are correct - the RS-3 (like the dunlop starspec or kumho XS) are "ultra-high performance street tires - not R-comps. A DOT R-comp is like a Toyo R888.


Anyways - welcome to the world of racing. I was in your position 3 years ago, and I haven't regretted a thing. As I'm sure you're starting to realize, there's an unlimited amount of money you can spend here, so it's definitely about prioritizing. People here have already given you loads of information to start off with. For your information, I'll tell you how i got started:

Since my car wasn't going to be a street car, I gutted the interior. For you - this is probably not an option.

Next, brake pads & blank rotors - I went with an aggressive street/track pad - Hawk HP+

Next, engine oil, tranny, and diff fluid changes. I used Royal Purple for diff/tranny, but Redline is also a great product.

After that - to the track! I had terrible all-season tires, but they was great for finding the limit quicky. I started doing AutoX - i recommend you do this too. It teaches you car control at lower speeds which will help hone your skills and teach you how to react when you get on track.

When those tires were killed, I upgraded to kumho ecsta xs (awesome tires). These were fantastic and definitely enable higher speeds.

It was at this point that I took the car to the track (Calabogie) - i had decent tires, decent brakes, and a bit of seat time to understand the car. I signed up with the Motorsports Club of Ottawa's lapping day, where they provide you an instructor. For your first day on track, DEFINITELY pick a club that provides instruction. You'll pay a bit more, but there's a lot going on at high speeds, and it's definitely important to have someone experienced beside you.


So that was basically my first year. Learn your car, have fun, ask lots of questions, break things, fix things, and keep on going.

Good luck and enjoy!
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb_600 View Post

Anyways - welcome to the world of racing.
Oops... this is not what he's doing You're not racing if you're just going around a track with point-by passing rules

Quote:
Since my car wasn't going to be a street car, I gutted the interior. For you - this is probably not an option.
:jealous:

Quote:
Next, brake pads & blank rotors - I went with an aggressive street/track pad - Hawk HP+
There is no pad that is good for both street and track though, I still recommend getting a proper pad and swapping. For autox maybe, but not on a track where your speeds are MUCH higher. I wouldn't compromise initial cold bite living in the GTA and dealing with 400 series highways, and at high temp, such as what is experienced at TMP, street brakes will fade pretty quick. Since he only plans on going 2 or 3 times, swapping won't be too bad.

Might want to price out a set of slotted rotors too when the OEM ones are done... some improvement in braking / heat reduction is always good, and they might be close to the same price as blanks... worth checking out. Don't get drilled, they might look cool but they will sometimes crack and if left unattended, shatter on track. You can imagine what that would do to your wheel / car. That's because they are often drilled after the rotor is cast (what most aftermarket manufacturers do) as opposed to the holes being cast WITH the rotor (what BMW does). Drilling reduces the strength of the disc substantially when not cast with the rotor.

Quote:
Next, engine oil, tranny, and diff fluid changes. I used Royal Purple for diff/tranny, but Redline is also a great product.

After that - to the track! I had terrible all-season tires, but they was great for finding the limit quicky. I started doing AutoX - i recommend you do this too. It teaches you car control at lower speeds which will help hone your skills and teach you how to react when you get on track.

When those tires were killed, I upgraded to kumho ecsta xs (awesome tires). These were fantastic and definitely enable higher speeds.

It was at this point that I took the car to the track (Calabogie) - i had decent tires, decent brakes, and a bit of seat time to understand the car. I signed up with the Motorsports Club of Ottawa's lapping day, where they provide you an instructor. For your first day on track, DEFINITELY pick a club that provides instruction. You'll pay a bit more, but there's a lot going on at high speeds, and it's definitely important to have someone experienced beside you.


So that was basically my first year. Learn your car, have fun, ask lots of questions, break things, fix things, and keep on going.

Good luck and enjoy!
All this, agree 100%. The AutoX is a good idea, it's fun for sure, teaches car control and a whole fck of a lot cheaper than track (especially if you become a Mosport GP track addict).

I am quite excited for this year.. all my transmission (SMG) issues are fixed, still have plenty of pad and tire left for April / May.. I plan on hitting a race school if it's offered, looking to get into something competitive on track. OTA might be an option for sure.

All this talk is making me anxious. Gonna go play Forza...

-J
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianM View Post
just want to say wow. I really appreciate all the time that people have put in to help me get started, >hell of a community you've got here. I've got to get to bed early so I'm not going to get into anything major right this second, but mostly I need to reread and absorb anyways haha
You're very welcome. We want people to learn properly and have fun doing it, and good advice now will make your days more enjoyable, and ours as well when you're out on track with us

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianM View Post
Ok, turns out Richie_999 had just posted an electric puller fan and a old rad on here, so I have just bought that to start backing up my cooling system.

I know it's not an all aluminum rad or anything, but having a stocker means I can do a quick swap if I need, so I'll atleast have some cheap insurance , so I'm pretty pumped to be able to start in the cooling department on minimal dollars

to be continued..
You did the right thing... OEM cooling is just fine. You have lots of time, so that's great that you're looking for deals. See if you can't keep your eye open for a deal on a water pump too... and it never hurts to replace the hoses...

-J
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaym3smg View Post
Oops... this is not what he's doing You're not racing if you're just going around a track with point-by passing rules

Oops is right.... my bad

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaym3smg View Post

There is no pad that is good for both street and track though, I still recommend getting a proper pad and swapping. For autox maybe, but not on a track where your speeds are MUCH higher. I wouldn't compromise initial cold bite living in the GTA and dealing with 400 series highways, and at high temp, such as what is experienced at TMP, street brakes will fade pretty quick. Since he only plans on going 2 or 3 times, swapping won't be too bad.

Might want to price out a set of slotted rotors too when the OEM ones are done... some improvement in braking / heat reduction is always good, and they might be close to the same price as blanks... worth checking out. Don't get drilled, they might look cool but they will sometimes crack and if left unattended, shatter on track. You can imagine what that would do to your wheel / car. That's because they are often drilled after the rotor is cast (what most aftermarket manufacturers do) as opposed to the holes being cast WITH the rotor (what BMW does). Drilling reduces the strength of the disc substantially when not cast with the rotor.

You are right in that there is no pad that is perfect for street/track, but my experience with the HP+ has been excellent - never had any fade at all at CMP or at Shannonville. Coupled with a good fluid (ATE Superblue is my go-to brake fluid), this is a great starter pad. My brother was running these on the street too and they're a bit noisy & dusty, but still good.

Keep in mind, OP is on a beginner and on a budget. It will take a bit to get up to speed. Furthermore, as you previously correct me () this isn't racing - brake a bit early, give yourself a bit of room, and then you have an extra safety factor. This pad is a bit of a compromise but is very streetable, and surprisingly capable on track.

In my experience in asking questions, slotted rotors are not needed - blanks (chinese or brembo) are fine. CTCC guys only run blanks. Plus, at $40/rotor, replace them every year and you're fine. BMWs have fantastic braking systems so I wouldn't recommend needing a slotted rotor.

$0.02

PS - check out the build thread in my sig if you want to see where i'm at now
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaym3smg View Post
There is no pad that is good for both street and track though,
I guess you could say there is no "perfect" pad in the sense that a good track pad will always out perform a Street/Track pad under the harshest conditions. However, I would have to agree with sb_600, there are some pretty good options out there that would more then suffice for the OPís purposes which do not perform any worse on the street.

I use Performance Friction Carbon-metallic and have no issues getting the abs to kick in even on the coldest days. On the track without SS lines I experience almost unnoticeable break fade. I would highly recommend them.

The Hawks are decent too. They can get a little noisy on the street sometimes though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jaym3smg View Post
You did the right thing... OEM cooling is just fine. You have lots of time, so that's great that you're looking for deals. See if you can't keep your eye open for a deal on a water pump too... and it never hurts to replace the hoses...
I think that statement is only a safe to say if you have full knowledge of the history and maintenance done to the car. Neither you, nor I, know if that cooling system has been recently serviced, and from the looks of it neither does BrianM. It could have been brand new just before he took ownership of the car, or it could be original. He hasnít even told us how many KM's are actually on the car. That thing could be a ticking time bomb for all you know.

So yes, OEM cooling is more then fine, as long as it doesnít fail on you.

I know of three separate people who have experienced a cooling system failure on their E36. One of which was at just over 100k, and it left them stranded pretty far from home with a very expensive towing bill.

BrianM, good on you for taking the initiative and buying that extra rad. However, I would still start saving for an all aluminum rad in the near future. When the cooling system fails itís usually not something you can nurse back home and change. It tends to happen pretty abruptly, like what was shown in the video. So as great as it is to have a backup, unless you carry your tools and that spare rad around with you everywhere you go, its not gonna make a difference unless you plan on making a road or track-side swap.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:52 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Discostar View Post
I guess you could say there is no "perfect" pad in the sense that a good track pad will always out perform a Street/Track pad under the harshest conditions. However, I would have to agree with sb_600, there are some pretty good options out there that would more then suffice for the OPís purposes which do not perform any worse on the street.

I use Performance Friction Carbon-metallic and have no issues getting the abs to kick in even on the coldest days. On the track without SS lines I experience almost unnoticeable break fade. I would highly recommend them.

The Hawks are decent too. They can get a little noisy on the street sometimes though.
IMO there's no good pad for both track and street. You are compromising either way and for me, braking is one area I don't like to cheap out. There's many other factors too, getting ABS to kick in is not indicative of a good pad, lol. There's rotor wear, fade, ability to modulate, etc. If a street pad does the trick for now, then that's fine. A good track pad will come soon enough though, sure did for me. I was burning through supposed "street / track" pads like mad.

Quote:
I think that statement is only a safe to say if you have full knowledge of the history and maintenance done to the car. Neither you, nor I, know if that cooling system has been recently serviced, and from the looks of it neither does BrianM. It could have been brand new just before he took ownership of the car, or it could be original. He hasnít even told us how many KM's are actually on the car. That thing could be a ticking time bomb for all you know.

So yes, OEM cooling is more then fine, as long as it doesnít fail on you.
Yeah, that's why I said all the stuff before...

If the E36 is more prone to cooling failure, then more often than every 100k miles (160k km) may be necessary, I'll defer to those with E36's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sb_600
In my experience in asking questions, slotted rotors are not needed - blanks (chinese or brembo) are fine. CTCC guys only run blanks. Plus, at $40/rotor, replace them every year and you're fine. BMWs have fantastic braking systems so I wouldn't recommend needing a slotted rotor.
No, they aren't needed. At $40 a rotor, if that's what the vented blanks are, then yeah that's a great deal. Just saying if you can get something better for close to the same, go for it. Agreed, BMW's brakes are really good. I ran OEM ZCP until I got my BBK just last year and with a proper set of pads I had no braking issues until I went with r-comps.

-J
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb_600 View Post
In my experience in asking questions, slotted rotors are not needed - blanks (chinese or brembo) are fine. CTCC guys only run blanks. Plus, at $40/rotor, replace them every year and you're fine. BMWs have fantastic braking systems so I wouldn't recommend needing a slotted rotor.
In my experience, slotted discs helped a ton to lessen the pad buildup on the disc (or what noobs call 'I warped my discs yo')... Sure its a slight bit noisier, and a bit more expensive, but I'd go with slotted every time over blanks if possible.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:02 PM   #25
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e36 Cooling system

Yeah weak coolings systems for sure, other problem is that the cooling system has a ton of components that are prone to failure - replace so it becomes very expensive to replace the entire system- your looking at nearly $1000 for everything if you buy new and factor in labour costs.

Problem also is that if the car hasn't been maintained before you bought it your stuck changing it yourself. At this point the age and maintenance really factors in.

I have a 98 - manufactured in 9/97 and the cooling system was last refreshed in 2005 at roughly around 100k kms - I am at 185K now and here is the list of things that have gone and parts I have already replaced or will be doing shortly:

Rad - put a used one in which is now leaking (have the aluminum one sitting ready - will change at next opportunity) - done ($50) started leaking randomly
Thermostat + housing + gaskets (Depends)- done
fan Switch (Depends) - done
Auxillary fan - done ($225) (also randomly- working one day gone the next)
Waterpump - done ($70 for metal impeller Graf pump - more if you buy a Stewart high performance pump)


Fan clutch + plastic fan - next service (min $200) or go electric - ($150 for parts)
hoses - next service ($100)
Aluminum rad ($100 if you get it cheap - $200 - $300 if you buy new here in Southern Ontario ) - next service
Coolant Level sensor - not doing it
Expansion tank - next service

You can change most of this yourself if you have access to a heated garage - to do the waterpump and the clutch fan - you will need the fan clutch tool. But point is there are a lot of components.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:16 PM   #26
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Lots of great advice but I would be overwhelmed with my "to-do list" if I were the OP. Brake fluid flush, good amount of life left on the pads and general maintenance in good standing order should be enough for first time out. If you like it (very likely), eventually deal with the E36 track shortcomings everyone pointed out.

I think the best advice was to pick a good club with instructors, go in with an open mind and listen to what they are saying. Oh, and auto-x too.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:10 PM   #27
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Arg, my internet's been out of commission for over two weeks now (sending from friend's computer). will continue updating when internet is setup again. I hope everyone's had a merry Christmas.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:34 AM   #28
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+1 for the Driving School advice!
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:43 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by jaym3smg View Post

You did the right thing... OEM cooling is just fine. You have lots of time, so that's great that you're looking for deals. See if you can't keep your eye open for a deal on a water pump too... and it never hurts to replace the hoses...

-J
I'd have to disagree. #1 thing to change on these as they age is the rad and the water pump.

I've had a rad go and you won't get a warning, and you will likely take out your alternator with it (ask me how I know). Also once you over heat these engines they will have oil usage problems.

The aluminum rads' are cheap these days. Spend the money now while it's cheap.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:45 AM   #30
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OIL PUMP NUT.

If you are going to track it you should wire this so that it does not come off.
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