M20 Timing Belt Emergency - Page 2

Ceeker · 10-04-2011, 05:47 PM

it has been my experience that you best get a manual that outlines "how too" or do a google search on M20 timing belt replacement. This should be a good source to start with. if you are mech handy you should have no problems doing it. Doesn't matter where you get the parts you'll save maybe 30-50 at most. Make sure the tensioner is stamped with 27 I believe I can't recall now but has a marking on it.

also, when installing the belt you will have to double,triple check your timing marks. the easiest way to do this is after removing the fan etc. Rotate the motor manually until you get to TDC. then remove everything including the old belt. Remove the waterpump, install new one and reverse order - put everything back. the timing belt is the tricky part. you have to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE there is no slack and MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you have the right amount of tension on the belt. one that is too loose or two tight may prematurely wear your belt out, make noise, skip a tooth or snap. the rest is bolt on.

As mentioned once the belt is one rotate the engine twice to make sure the timing belt marks line up and there is no binding. IF you get binding stop immediately. reverse the rotation recheck the timing marks. Remove the belt if you have to to re-align the cam with the crank. Be careful if this happens or you can bend a valve(s) and that means you'll be removing the head.

411 · 10-04-2011, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ceeker

it has been my experience that you best get a manual that outlines "how too" or do a google search on M20 timing belt replacement. This should be a good source to start with. if you are mech handy you should have no problems doing it. Doesn't matter where you get the parts you'll save maybe 30-50 at most. Make sure the tensioner is stamped with 27 I believe I can't recall now but has a marking on it.

also, when installing the belt you will have to double,triple check your timing marks. the easiest way to do this is after removing the fan etc. Rotate the motor manually until you get to TDC. then remove everything including the old belt. Remove the waterpump, install new one and reverse order - put everything back. the timing belt is the tricky part. you have to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE there is no slack and MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you have the right amount of tension on the belt. one that is too loose or two tight may prematurely wear your belt out, make noise, skip a tooth or snap. the rest is bolt on.

As mentioned once the belt is one rotate the engine twice to make sure the timing belt marks line up and there is no binding. IF you get binding stop immediately. reverse the rotation recheck the timing marks. Remove the belt if you have to to re-align the cam with the crank. Be careful if this happens or you can bend a valve(s) and that means you'll be removing the head.

.........Now theres some "quality" info.......
........."Good on ja".."E"

Bullet Ride · 10-04-2011, 06:56 PM

One of the fun parts for me when I did my timing belt this spring was getting the clutch fan off. Unless you have the correct size clutch fan spanner you're SOL because a regular 32mm wrench won't fit, the water pump pulley bolts get in the way. Luckily I was able to remove two of the water pump pulley bolts to make enough clearance. Removing the clutch fan can also be fun if it's the first time it's being removed since it was installed.

Fortunately (and unfortunately) my car looked like this when I was working on it so I had lots of room to work.

Overall it's not too bad of a job to do. Just take your time and follow the steps in the bentley manual and you'll be fine.

MaxBell · 10-04-2011, 07:10 PM

I've got everything under control I think. Parts on the way, got a day set aside.

Ceeker · 10-04-2011, 11:15 PM

[quote=Bullet Ride;1527518]One of the fun parts for me when I did my timing belt this spring was getting the clutch fan off. Unless you have the correct size clutch fan spanner you're SOL because a regular 32mm wrench won't fit, the water pump pulley bolts get in the way. Luckily I was able to remove two of the water pump pulley bolts to make enough clearance. Removing the clutch fan can also be fun if it's the first time it's being removed since it was installed.

one thing you forgot to mention; the fan is a reverse thread so it loosen clockwise NOT counter clockwise. don't remove any of the belts before you attempt to remove the fan clutch.

also, depending on which type of reservoir you have you can use a regular 32mm wrench. If it is old school torpedo shaped the wrench won't work. I bought a cheap wrench at princess auto and had it shaved/machined down to fit in. If you have the newer style located at the front drivers inner fender you can wiggle a standard thickness wrench through. Don't ask me why it work on one and not the other. I've done many of these jobs. You might want to use a hammer to tap the wrench to break the nut loose. once done you just spin the fan off and remove it with the fan shroud.

MaxBell · 10-05-2011, 01:53 AM

Thanks for the tips Ceeker. You da man.

everlast · 10-05-2011, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaxBell

PFFTT...As if I'm driving it legally...

Then I hope that means you're not riding at all.

everlast · 10-05-2011, 02:29 AM

At thin 32mm wrench is available at most bicycle shops. I had one from my bike as a kid, but seem to have misplaced it. Once you get it onto the bolt, a sharp whack with a hammer usually loosens it!

E30M42cab · 10-05-2011, 02:37 AM

Steve, you did the right thing removing a couple of bolts from the pulley. Don't let anyone tell you that you need a thin walled 32mm wrench to do this job. That's all BS conjured up to make you buy more tools!

Fan clutch tool available from Princess auto is your friend also. Makes the job a breeze. http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...n-holding-tool

everlast · 10-05-2011, 11:13 AM

You preach about not needing more tools, then link to another tool? LOL!!

Just put a flat head screwdriver leveraged between two bolts and crank it. Always worked for me!

Get your parts yet Max? And post pics of the bike dammit!

North · 10-05-2011, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by everlast

Just put a flat head screwdriver leveraged between two bolts and crank it. Always worked for me!

This.

prop a large one between two of the four fan/clutch bolts or between the belt and pulley to stop the whole thing from rotating, and it is easy as pie.

davericher20 · 10-05-2011, 12:35 PM

what, you guys did't pay $70 for a 32mm wrench at an industrial supply store?

Don't judge me.

411 · 10-05-2011, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by everlast

You preach about not needing more tools, then link to another tool? LOL!!

Just put a flat head screwdriver leveraged between two bolts and crank it. Always worked for me!

Get your parts yet Max? And post pics of the bike dammit!

I "like you"....please be my friend

E30M42cab · 10-05-2011, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by everlast

You preach about not needing more tools, then link to another tool? LOL!!

Yeah, I have no response to that really, haha! Shut up!

This.

Jam the wrech on there with a hammer without removing two of the fan bolts, disconnect the ignition wire and turn over the engine until the fan spins off. Don't remove the fan shroud first. Let the fan fall out the bottom of the engine bay.

Ceeker · 10-05-2011, 07:21 PM

yeah, then rip everything out with your bare hands and brute iron strength.. throw all caution to the wind and use the "force" to put everything back! LOL