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Old 08-27-2013, 07:44 PM   #106
Woofer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cormier View Post
I have one of those tii reservoirs if you need it. Ya mounting is a pain. I used an ix brake res that has a clutch fluid bung off it. Congrats on gettin this far dude!
Thanks. Yea. Figuring a good spot was a bit time consuming. So far we are pleased with out current set up. I had the car on the DDT track during Bimmercruise and the brakes held up well. Brand spanking new brakes felt great on the track! Good way to work em in lol.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:08 AM   #107
El Gato Liso
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Ooooo yaaaaaaaaaaa
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:00 PM   #108
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Late update, but I completely forgot about this lol. I was having too much fun with 24v treatment lol.

So lets recap

97 m52 swap with obd 1 conversion 170,xxx kms
-new rear main seal
-spark plugs
-new serpentine belt
-new exhaust manifold gaskets, studs and bolts (copper coated I think)
-new pilot bearing
-rebuilt injectors.
-new throttle body gasket
-new intake manifold gaskets
-valve cover gaskets
-new oil filter, oil and coolant
-new throttle cable

Here are a few pics







Car runs great but now it's modding/repairing season so I've got a few things on my list, some with more priority than others lol.

To do list

- One of the MAIN items on the list is to tackle the rear end. It's the original sub frame so it's kicked the bucket. I have a nice crack where the diff bolts up and one of the holes for bolting the diff on is no longer there lol. Bolt goes right through. So my goal is to find a clean complete rear end that I can build off the car (paint, bushings etc). This way I can just swap them out. I'm in between poly or OEM rear sub frame bushings. What do you guys think? I read that the polys can be pretty harsh and I think if replaced with OEM bushings it'll probably last another 15-20 years, like the originals did?

-Next would be the leaky gas tank. This summer I noticed it would smell like gas whenever I filled right up. Put it on the hoist and I can see that it's leaking from the top. Too bad, the rest of the tank looks pretty clean. I'm thinking of putting a later model tank in it. Can I still run an external pump with the later style tank?

-I'm also going to do the zf tranny swap. I'm pretty sure I have everything I need, except a clutch and diff. I currently have a 4:10 LSD so I'm looking for a 3:15 LSD. I wanted the 3:73 LSD but after speaking to another member with the 3:73 and m52/zf combo he mentioned it still felt pretty short. Hwy cruising was still pretty high reving. I intend on boosting eventually (have some goodies put together) so I read that they like to run the 3:15lsd. I believe this is the diff that comes out of the roadster? Still need to do a bit more research.

- Exhaust. If you are doing the 24v swap, stay away from the m50 cast manifolds. Just buy the cheapo headers on eBay. I should have done that from the beginning. I may do the m52/s52 manifolds instead. They produce less rasp then the cheapo eBay headers. I'm already running a straight pipe so I'm afraid it'll be annoying with all that rasp.

- clutch fan delete. I read that the 16' spal fan works great. Can any other BMW aux can be used instead?

- New radiator with a built in coolant res

- If I can fit in the budget I'd like to get s52 cams.

Looks like I have a bit of work a head of me lol.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:07 PM   #109
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Here are a few shots of her before she was put away.




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Old 11-26-2013, 07:10 PM   #110
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Finally got my caps polished. Which emblem should I run? I think the BMW one looks cleaner.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:22 PM   #111
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- I'm in between poly or OEM rear sub frame bushings. What do you guys think? I read that the polys can be pretty harsh and I think if replaced with OEM bushings it'll probably last another 15-20 years, like the originals did?

Poly subframe bushings is fine, but stick with OEM rubber RTABs.

-I'm thinking of putting a later model tank in it. Can I still run an external pump with the later style tank?

This has relevant discussion http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...to-early-325is
I will also say that the siphon sytem built into the aftermarket tanks does not seem to function as well as the OEM tank. Last year with my leaky OEM tank I had no issues with fuel starvation going below half a tank of fuel. This year I put in a brand new aftermarket tank with a new fuel pump and new filter, and on both Mosport GP through turn 1 and turn 3 and on Cayuga through turn 1 I was having issues with fuel starvation just below a half tank of fuel. I'm going to have to sort that out for next year.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:46 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
- I'm in between poly or OEM rear sub frame bushings. What do you guys think? I read that the polys can be pretty harsh and I think if replaced with OEM bushings it'll probably last another 15-20 years, like the originals did?

Poly subframe bushings is fine, but stick with OEM rubber RTABs.

-I'm thinking of putting a later model tank in it. Can I still run an external pump with the later style tank?

This has relevant discussion http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...to-early-325is
I will also say that the siphon sytem built into the aftermarket tanks does not seem to function as well as the OEM tank. Last year with my leaky OEM tank I had no issues with fuel starvation going below half a tank of fuel. This year I put in a brand new aftermarket tank with a new fuel pump and new filter, and on both Mosport GP through turn 1 and turn 3 and on Cayuga through turn 1 I was having issues with fuel starvation just below a half tank of fuel. I'm going to have to sort that out for next year.
Thanks Steve. I may consider keeping an early model tank in my car.

"The early gauge expects a resistance change or 60-0 ohm (full to empty). The later tank uses two sensors wired in series and thus goes from 120-0 ohms. If you use a late gauge in an early car the fuel will be exhausted when the gauge reads a touch below half. If you use a late gauge in an early car the tank will be full when the gauge reads about half.

Sine the late tank employs a siphon to lift fuel over the drive shaft hump, two sensors are necessary to give reasonably accurate fuel levels when the car isn't being driven solely in a straight line. A good bit of fuel can wind up on the "wrong" side of the tank, and vice versa. The early tank has a cross over tube that will allow the levels on both sides of the tank to equalize."

The car has a body harness from a 91 that I had to re wire so the early style tank would work. I do remember leaving all the OEM connectors intact, assuming that I may do a later style tank. All I did was splice and make some longer wires or something, I need to double check. It also seems like the early style tank won't have the siphon issue you mentioned. Either way, I'm leaning towards buying a brand new tank. I don't want to end up with a leaky used one down the road.

I'm looking at some kits on AKG's website for the sub frame bushings and RTABS, still shopping around. I may pick up their rear toe/camber kits too.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:08 PM   #113
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I have a set of new poly rtabs sitting on my desk I'd let go for cheap....
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:42 PM   #114
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I like the wheels. The look like old skool Kerscher

http://wp1016621.wp027.webpack.hoste...885/f00885.htm


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Old 12-06-2013, 11:53 AM   #115
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My 87 325is

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I have a set of new poly rtabs sitting on my desk I'd let go for cheap....
Thanks karmatose, I think I may stick with OEM RTABS but if I change my mind I wil let you know. Can you PM me an asking price?
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:56 AM   #116
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Quote:
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I like the wheels. The look like old skool Kerscher

http://wp1016621.wp027.webpack.hoste...885/f00885.htm


Thanks Robb, I always liked the way the momos looked, but I finally splurged and bought a set of rims. They are currently being polished so I will update pics once I figure out what tires I will run.

Those kerscher look amazing on that e30, especially in that color!
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:36 PM   #117
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Found a set of used eBay headers! Great deal and it was local. Why is summer time so far away! Lol I'll post pics later on this week. Nothing special, regular headers, but to me it means no more leaky manifolds!!! Question, if I only have one o2 sensor but the headers have bungs for 2, what is one to do? Make my o2 sensor longer and install it after my Y pipe?

Found a brand new early style tank for 350, aftermarket. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, hoping to find cheaper LOL. Chances are ill pick it up after the holiday season. Unless anyone here has any leads.

I also finally!!!!! Have rims. They are in my possession. Dropped them off last week to get professionally polished. I didn't want to mess around polishing step lips, oh no, have I said to much lol? I will post pics once I get them back. Or maybe ill just wait till summer time to show you guys haha.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:17 PM   #118
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I put plugs in the bungs on my long tube headers and have the o2 sensor in a bung in my y-pipe. Hopefully the headers you got fit better than my racelands, as they hit on every possible component and were a serious pain in my ass.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:45 PM   #119
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I put plugs in the bungs on my long tube headers and have the o2 sensor in a bung in my y-pipe. Hopefully the headers you got fit better than my racelands, as they hit on every possible component and were a serious pain in my ass.
They look like they'll fit no problem lol


They actually look identical to these, just not shiny anymore.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:48 PM   #120
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My 87 325is

Seems like they look just like your raceland headers. I hope it's not as bad as I have read. I know they fit in an e36 but haven't test for then on my car yet. I have read mixed feelings regarding these headers. Some guys say the install wasn't to bad and other say it was a nightmare.

What did u do in order to make yours fit?
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