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Old 09-11-2011, 10:50 AM   #1
iverson03tj
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Just added an e30 to my collection!

Ok so! i needed a winter car since im building my enigne in my e36, and i found a 325i i think, its a convertible, its auto and its got 280km comes with are hard top and brand new tires, its been repainted to matte black... no rust and underneath is pretty clean there isnt a soft top inside.... but i need a few things for the interior, like door cars and alot of stock trim pieces... the car hasnt been run for the last 3 years!!!! what kinda changes should i do! i know i should do a tune up for sure!

The front bottom half of the bumper is missing and one of the stock projectors housings need to be replaced....


the gear selector is broken :S unno how but its the first time i ever seen it snap


it starts fine but one spark plug wire does need to be replaces... any one know if i have to buy the whole spark plug wire from the stealership????

Next issue is that the clutch fan just started to rub against my rad hose!!!!

Can i do a FDM on it

The Engine is ticking pretty loud...... im going to put some locus oil addictive and see if it runs a bit better.... keep in mind it hasnt been run for 3 years....



So what do u guys think... i mean there probably will be a few more problems latter but right now its pretty.
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e39 M5 (s62)- Muffler Delete, Timmay Tips,
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e36 328is - (m52)AA S/c'd, M50 Mani, 3.23 LSD, M3 Brakes, Zimmer rotors, hps pads, Racing Dynamic Strut Bar, Depos, m3 Bumper, Intake, Spal fan, poly RTABs, Eibach Swaybars, Koni yellow, Mishimoto Rad, Silicone hose, Alumi T-housing, Depo w/LED Angels, LED tails, 12' Alpine Type R, Suede head liner, LTW Low rise spoiler
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:22 AM   #2
everlast
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I think you need to:

change the timing belt / water pump
change the oil
change the coolant
adjust the valves
flush the brake fluid
check all other fluid levels (trans, diff)
examine engine mount bushings (fan rubbing rad hose = engine mounts)
don't add lucas additive
fix all broken things
post pics

The first four things aren't things you can skip. You must do them before driving the car.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:31 AM   #3
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If you know one wire is shot you can replace the one wire. I kept the longest good wire from another car and have it in my long distance travel kit.

if you're doing the belt you'll want to do the tensioner as well.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:38 AM   #4
everlast
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Thanks, forgot the tensioner in the list.

I got aftermarket wires (Kingston brand) from ebay, Canadian seller a few years ago and was very happy, but you can usually find a wire from someone with an incomplete set if you ask around.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:51 AM   #5
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I agree, do the timing belt/tensioner/waterpump combo. then tune up which would include changing the valve cover gasket and adjusting the rockers..noisy means you need to adjust them. Don't be to alarmed if you gotta spend a grand on it up front. if it's a winter beater; don't get carried away..lol
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I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!

Last edited by Ceeker; 09-12-2011 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:51 AM   #6
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examine engine mount bushings (fan rubbing rad hose = engine mounts)

LOL...man alive, I went through a coolant hose at mosport before checking that.

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Old 09-14-2011, 08:12 PM   #7
iverson03tj
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Damn... i was hoping this is will just a cheap winter beater since i dont want to take my e36 out.... hmmm i think the waterpump is good, the coolant is clean. i know i need an oil change and a vavle adjustment asap.... the engine mounts going to take so much of my time.. and its got like 280,000km on it i was thinking maybe lucas would help... jsut 10% of the bottle mixed in with 10 w 30.....
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e39 M5 (s62)- Muffler Delete, Timmay Tips,
e30 325ic - Hard Top, Matte Black
e36 328is - (m52)AA S/c'd, M50 Mani, 3.23 LSD, M3 Brakes, Zimmer rotors, hps pads, Racing Dynamic Strut Bar, Depos, m3 Bumper, Intake, Spal fan, poly RTABs, Eibach Swaybars, Koni yellow, Mishimoto Rad, Silicone hose, Alumi T-housing, Depo w/LED Angels, LED tails, 12' Alpine Type R, Suede head liner, LTW Low rise spoiler
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:24 PM   #8
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500 to get it licenced, etested..... and like 800 for parts..... mine as well drive the e36 and just take the supercharger out .... hmmm this is a tough decision
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e39 M5 (s62)- Muffler Delete, Timmay Tips,
e30 325ic - Hard Top, Matte Black
e36 328is - (m52)AA S/c'd, M50 Mani, 3.23 LSD, M3 Brakes, Zimmer rotors, hps pads, Racing Dynamic Strut Bar, Depos, m3 Bumper, Intake, Spal fan, poly RTABs, Eibach Swaybars, Koni yellow, Mishimoto Rad, Silicone hose, Alumi T-housing, Depo w/LED Angels, LED tails, 12' Alpine Type R, Suede head liner, LTW Low rise spoiler
PREVIOUS CARS
92' 325is (m52) - M3 conversion AA S/c'd
'97 Euro Estroil E36 M3 Vert (S50B32)
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:47 PM   #9
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It sounds like you haven't done the etest yet.. I'd start with that. If you can't get it to pass etest then you're ****ed anyway.

Then, bare minimum (cheap beater method) = change the timing belt and tensioner, adjust valves (reuse the gasket, use RTV if it tears), change the oil. Engine mounts are very cheap and easy to change. Perhaps replace that hose if its chewed up.

You really do have to change the timing belt. If its old, and especially if it's sat unused, you run a high risk of it snapping and then you have 0.

Even at $1300.. what would you expect to pay to get a road worthy car?
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
hmmm i think the waterpump is good, the coolant is clean.
&%$#ing awesome.
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
hmmm i think the waterpump is good, the coolant is clean.
Unless this is some inside joke.. you can't "tell" if your waterpump needs replacing by the cleanliness of coolant. You can't tell it needs replacing by any means other than:

a. it's broken
b. it's due to be change, which on the m20 is always done when you do the timing belt

If the water pump goes, you'll have to redo the timing belt to do the water pump because the pump and tensioner share a bolt.
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:49 PM   #12
InfiniteDice
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Everlast is right about coolant condition.

Rotate the water pump by hand when it's all apart, should rotate nice. Shouldn't have bearing play, flat spots, or excessive noise.

Usually it's just the gasket that has failed.

I have changed the water pump without the belt. The tensioner spring just adjusts the pre-load on the belt before tightening, once tightened it shouldn't move so it shouldn't need the spring until the next time the belt is replaced. But yes proper procedure dictates keeping the spring/pin in there.
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:57 PM   #13
everlast
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Personally if the water pump didn't have too many miles, I would skip it, but I wouldn't skip the timing belt.
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:50 PM   #14
iverson03tj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everlast View Post
Unless this is some inside joke.. you can't "tell" if your waterpump needs replacing by the cleanliness of coolant. You can't tell it needs replacing by any means other than:

a. it's broken
b. it's due to be change, which on the m20 is always done when you do the timing belt

If the water pump goes, you'll have to redo the timing belt to do the water pump because the pump and tensioner share a bolt.

lol sorry i ment that the water pump was changed by th PO and the cooling system looks fine, the rads 2 years old and havent been used much, he starts the car every week or so.... and the coolant must have been flushed cuz its clean.
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e39 M5 (s62)- Muffler Delete, Timmay Tips,
e30 325ic - Hard Top, Matte Black
e36 328is - (m52)AA S/c'd, M50 Mani, 3.23 LSD, M3 Brakes, Zimmer rotors, hps pads, Racing Dynamic Strut Bar, Depos, m3 Bumper, Intake, Spal fan, poly RTABs, Eibach Swaybars, Koni yellow, Mishimoto Rad, Silicone hose, Alumi T-housing, Depo w/LED Angels, LED tails, 12' Alpine Type R, Suede head liner, LTW Low rise spoiler
PREVIOUS CARS
92' 325is (m52) - M3 conversion AA S/c'd
'97 Euro Estroil E36 M3 Vert (S50B32)
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:53 PM   #15
everlast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
keep in mind it hasnt been run for 3 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
he starts the car every week or so
Make up your mind.

In any case, a water pump failure is just a break down. The timing belt is what you should be discussing. It's failure = end of the motor.
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