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Old 08-30-2011, 09:29 AM   #16
Bullet Ride
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Quote:
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How the hell can you snap that bolt?
x2 ?
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:38 AM   #17
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There is no reason to touch anything related to the diff, that's just stupid. I've done several cars and never had to.
I believe it is to lower the rear end as much as possible as to put the least "pressure" on the axles/cvs.
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:11 PM   #18
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yep, sheared the 19mm bolt.(not the head, but about 1/4") the bit that goes into the T/A.

I'm going to get an extractor bit kit tonight and try my luck with that, otherwise i'll need to shop around for a use left rear trail arm.

I snapped it by NOT putting a jack or stand under the whole assembly, and when I was removing it it just fell, thus snapping the bolt.

it was pretty seized to, so I imagine the stuck part is going to be a PITA to try to get out too..

we'll see...everything is fixable.

bad luck wrenching on this E30...my 86 was so much friendlier lol
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:13 PM   #19
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I believe it is to lower the rear end as much as possible as to put the least "pressure" on the axles/cvs.

thats what I read...I wouldn't want to tackle this on our canadian cars...those bolts would be in there pretty good, plus to line it up afterwards would be nightmarish.
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:33 PM   #20
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gonna heat up the eff out of it with a torch and extractor it.
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:23 PM   #21
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The only way this could happen is if you have side force on the bolt while you were removing it. I've never ever seen a bolt that size break.

I'd say heat the surrounding metal of the trailing arm up, then slowly try to turn it out. You might have to carefully drill a small pilot hole in the middle, then slowly enlarge the hole. Just don't damage the threads.
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:44 PM   #22
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It doesn't surprise me that you snapped a bolt on an east coast car. I dropped the front section of my exhaust using hand wrenches and unbolted my differential without any issues... you Ontario e30 guys are seriously bad ass.
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:18 PM   #23
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you Ontario e30 guys are seriously bad ass.
This part is definitely true. But, I've dropped many of these and never came close to snapping it. It must have been rust-seized in place. In which case no amount of placement would have prevented this.
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:55 PM   #24
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It was rust seized. No chance of it coming out even after heat and bit extractor.

Got my hands on a set of used trail arms.

Huge thanks to Denny from the board for helping me out when I was in a bind. Nice meeting u, and trully that black e30 is simply badass. Completely done right.

Cheers
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:25 PM   #25
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Now you'll have the fun job of cutting the parking brake cables because they are rusted into the trailing arms.

Oh, and you have two roads to choose from for the trailing arm swap. You can pull the arms separate, you may need to grind a box end wrench so it's skinny enough to fit between the body of the car and the outer trailing arm bushing bolt. Let's say this is not too fun.

Or... You can drop the whole subframe and change the subframe bushings while you're at it. That's a fun job too.

Keep us updated!
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:51 PM   #26
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Shit, that's right. That sucks.
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Old 08-31-2011, 06:32 AM   #27
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I've allready dealt with the e-brake cable months ago, so it shouldn't be too much of a headache.

And by dealt I mean eliminated
As in I have no left side e-brake.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:50 AM   #28
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It was rust seized. No chance of it coming out even after heat and bit extractor.

Got my hands on a set of used trail arms.

Huge thanks to Denny from the board for helping me out when I was in a bind. Nice meeting u, and trully that black e30 is simply badass. Completely done right.

Cheers
Ryan
Yeap Rusted bolts... my restoration would of been so much faster if it wasnt for things like this.

Now patience is your only friend, start by using a center punch mark the middle of the bolt then with a very small drill bit drill the center of the bolt, keep going up in size, soak it with Fluid film hit the sides with a hammer let it sit all night then next day use a socket(Big thick phillips head) bang it in as deep as you can in the drilled hole then very very slowly turn with the wratchet if it doesnt move at all more fluid film then hit with a hammer on the metal around the bolt fluid needs to get in that thread... yeah major Pita but you will succeed.


Back end of an E30 needs lots of work I decided to take the whole subframe and dealt with things off the car (expect damn e-brakes but I managed to change both after 2-3 days work of drilling and pulling and a lot of cursing!!) kind of job you do once and try to forget so in with Poweflex bushings everywhere

Nice meeting you too Ryan...good luck my friend.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:00 AM   #29
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Twin, I have a large coffee can of old ebrake parts. You're welcome to scavenge through it if you want.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:23 AM   #30
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I had a simlar situation happen on my 77 mini. All I did was drill it out tap it, put a stud in then seam weld it on and then used a nut and washer rather than a bolt. Of course if you want to remove the shocks in the future you have undo them from the top first in-order to slide the bottom onto the stud.

Anyways sounds like you have things under control.
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