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Old 07-28-2012, 06:06 PM   #211
cormier
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So the drop-in moment has almost come, and im excited beyond all belief.

Trying to keep organized so I can make sure theres no loose ends and the "insertion" can go smoothly. The only thing that is left before install is to hose clamp some of the air hoses down, and install the hard fuel lines underneath the manifold (hopefully will have from Maranello by 1 week monday). I'm working all this coming week, but I have friday-friday off next week. The suspense is killing me.

On the wire tuck side of things, the drivers side wires are all routed. The brake wear sensor and washer fluid connections I'm just going to wrap up and tie down beneath the fusebox so I don't have to cut anything out.

As for the passenger side stuff, I'm thinking of drilling a hole here





Routing through the upper rad support (i hope this wont interfere with the hood latch...actually I also hope the hood release cable will be long enough as well)

And come out and down by the passenger headlamp here





I don't like the look of having the ground in the engine bay (and don't want to have to sand down my brand new paint!) So I'm thinking of grounding the seperately Left and right, on the threads that stick out here





and here





A little worried about how exposed the connections will be though. I want to find one of those rubber boots to go over the connection but not sure where to look. It seems like most auto parts stores just sell useless garbage these days

Also going to axe the factory fusebox cable, and use the e36 starter cable complete. There is a ring at the bottom of the fusebox so it looks easy to swap out.
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Old 07-28-2012, 09:40 PM   #212
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Nice. Think it'll be ready for Bimmercruise?
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:37 PM   #213
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Oh jeez dude -- I wish I could say yes but it would be pretty optimistic

After the drop in still need to get her started, put the body back on, bleed the braked and cooling, final touches on the rear suspension and complete the wire tuck. Assuming all that goes without issue, exhaust shop needs to weld it up, and it'll need an alignment. I REALLY hopes could get all that done in the next month but with my work schedule and the way things have been going I'm not gonna have high hopes about it:p
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:58 PM   #214
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Came across a thread today regarding people having trouble fitting the ix boosters when using revshift motor mounts. Because of this, and so I can consider not running a remote res, I'm going to remove the spacer on the booster, cut and re-dye the rod. Shouldn't be too bad at all, and any extra space in the engine bay will be welcome.

Will have to re-bend two of the brake lines, oh well. Will update when its done.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:48 PM   #215
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Touchdown!




Too tired to write more, worked all day getting that far. Will update tomorrow
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:37 AM   #216
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a riot in a box! congrats!!

how was getting the engine to sit on the mounts?
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Old 08-08-2012, 10:01 PM   #217
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Ya getting the motor to sit on the mounts was a PITA at first because we were trying for inside holes on the subframe, not the outside slots. Once we switched to the outside it was in like a glove

The only clearance that bothers me are the headers and the heater core pipes.

We ended up removing the spacer from the brake booster and it made a world of difference, the master is completely clear of the intake boot, and it looks like I won't have the run a remote res.

Gotta hook everything up the we'll test fire it! Gonna go with the royal purple engine break in oil I think --gotta source some of that because JRP is out of it.

Some pix!















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Old 08-09-2012, 11:34 AM   #218
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Tranny bolted up. Only issue I wasn't expecting is the e36 m3 shifter carrier is too short. I think this is because my early model used the sheet metal style carrier. I think I need to source a bracket I've seen (in the last picture) to close the gap





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Old 08-11-2012, 05:01 PM   #219
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No dice getting the motor to fire last night.

Once jumped, would crank fine but no start. Ran down some checks and figured out I had no fuel to the motor. Went to the pumps, no power to the pumps in any key position

Went back to the fuel pump relay on the e36 harness. Replaced the relay with two brand new ones, nothing. Used the multimeter and saw power going in, but nothing coming from the DME signal. Thats as far as I went with it because I just wanted to get the thing running, so I jumped the relay manually and got the pumps to turn on.

Unfortunately, once fuel started getting into the rail it began pissing out of either an O-ring or the seat on the rail itself. I'll have to take a better look next week and figure out the electrical and the fuel rail issues.
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:21 PM   #220
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nothing is more miserable than trying to figure out why the 24 valve wont start!

if it helps...

when ever the swap never cranked right away, i'd check the fuel lines to make sure they're on right.

fuese 11, fuel pump fuse

fuel pump relay *was a problem more than once*

ground wires. i used 2 for either side.

chances are it is NOT the dme. i never had any prob with mine, so i doubt it would be a prob for you. you got red lable413 right?

its probably something so little and stupid thats preventing the turn over. you should find the prob in no time!
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:36 PM   #221
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Fuses could be a problem if his relay had no power, but it does. It's just not being fired by the DME. I'd guess it's an EWS problem or the DME is fried.

For the fuel spraying, you could have made the same mistake I did. I thought the clips are designed to hold the o-ring in place, but they're designed to go into the middle notch on the injector. Here was mine installed wrong:

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Old 08-11-2012, 08:38 PM   #222
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Thanks for the help guys...

Rob:

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gato Liso View Post
I'd check the fuel lines to make sure they're on right.
Fuel lines all checked, Supply and return are correct, external pump is the right way, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gato Liso View Post
fuese 11, fuel pump fuse
I checked all the fuses with "fuel delivery" marked, fuse 11 was one of them

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gato Liso View Post
fuel pump relay *was a problem more than once*
Tried two different brand new relays

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gato Liso View Post
ground wires. i used 2 for either side.
Engine harness is grounded, DME is secured and grounded (just in case), motor is grounded, coils are grounded

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gato Liso View Post
you got red lable413 right?
Ya 413 red label.

D:

Thanks so much for that pic, I think it may be my problem.

I think either the DME or Main relay may be my issue. It sucks the car is an hour away so I have to wait until at least Tuesday for more testing. Im wondering about the Turner chip thats in it too. It wouldn't be an EWS problem because the chip removed the EWS...

If the problem persists Ill try to get another DME... and I'll check the main relay as well.

On the topic of relays -- Are all the relays interchangable? They look all the same from the diagrams and the part numbers I believe all give you this universal orange OEM one....

Only other thought I had was the CPS, which I heard could be a problem on r3v.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:55 PM   #223
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Sensors and other jazz could cause it not to fire but fuel is a much more fundamental problem. If the DME is alive,when it gets power, it should turn on the fuel pump relay for a quick prime pump. Main relay is easy to check. Stand outside the car and turn the key on and off, you should hear a very clear click of main relay. If you wired a CEL (HIGHLY recommend), it should be on with your ignition in the ON position before start (the DME saying omghi2u).

If you have a red label, you shouldn't have an EWS chip. Dunno if that could cause problems though. It could just be a problem with lack of priming. The DME *should* fire the fuel pump but it seems to only do it sometimes. I think it has a timer of some kind, it only does the prime pulse after the car hasn't ran/started for a while. So figure out your fuel leak, jump the relay to get working pressure into the rail, then try starting. Worst case it will just run for a few sec and die, but if everything else works, the DME should keep the pump running once the engine starts.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:56 PM   #224
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np man, wanna see this thing run!


btw, 413 red label doesn't need EWS delete......so if it has EWS software...maybe thats causing it not to work since its programmed for the silver label DME? just a possibility probably.

orange relays, i've used them from all different bmws. i have a 318 e36 relay in the e30, on the e34 harness.

if your injectors look like what big D put up, chop chop fix that business!
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:10 PM   #225
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I had a brain fart... Of course the 413 red doesnt have ews-- that's the whole reason I got it :p

It may be an issue I'll look into it.. Injectors for sure on the fix list. At least it should be an easy fix
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