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Old 05-18-2011, 10:43 AM   #1
vic325ci
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polishing my head...lol

Hey guys, I was thinking about doing a port and polish on my m54 cylinder head to get some extra, and cheap hp out of my motor (about 400$) ...But is there anything else that goes along with a P&P? for example, if I do a P&P do I have to change anything like valves or gaskets or anything, or can I just keep everything stock?
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:52 PM   #2
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Unless you are doing the work yourself I can't see how this is going to cost $400.

You'll need a new head gasket plus I would replace valve cover gasket and anything else you can get to by removing the head (ccv, etc).
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:55 PM   #3
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I'm not going to lie, I don't see this happening for one of two reasons:

1. Given the question you asked, you almost certainly won't be doing the work yourself
2. Once you see the price tag of removing a head, reinstalling with new gaskets, threadserts (or helicoils), and the cost of the port polish...you'll find headers are a much better bang for buck alternative.

I am curious though, where did you come up with the $400 price tag?
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:27 PM   #4
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^ for sure.

M54 doesn't really take all that kindly to having the head removed and reinstalled. It's not like an M20.

The head bolts can strip the block quite easily even if you follow the proper procedures to the letter.
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:00 PM   #5
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^ I wouldnt agree with this. I removed a few heads off of M54s and never had any problem. If you follow proper procedure, you shall never have any problems.

OP, unless you can take your head off and put it back on, it will never cost $400. Plus if you WERE to p&p the head you would need more then just p&p to make any power. Better flow headers, different tune.

On a 325 its not worth the time and effort.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:02 PM   #6
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Maybe he is doing it like this:

http://www.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80267
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:07 PM   #7
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My uncle owns a machine shop and said he would do the port and polish for 400 bucks, I probably should have mentioned this before lol
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:38 PM   #8
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Ok well I only brought up this question because a relative of mine did it to his Mustang GT and he said it did a world of difference...now obviously he has double the power and displacement of my engine which means even small mods makes a big difference so from what I've read so far, its not a great idea............which brings me to another question; I WAS going to buy some headers from AA BUT I then read the product description and it read something like this; " FOR OFF-ROAD AND RACING USE ONLY DUE TO THE REMOVAL OF THE CATALYTIC CONVERTERS SITUATED RIGHT UP AGAINST THE ENGINE BLOCK" or something along those lines...my first question is "why the @#$% would BMW throw their cats between the block and the headers"? my second question is "Am i just over-reading all this stuff about racing use and not passing emissions?" Bare with me guys, I'm not that bright when it comes to BMW systems and how they work lol
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:46 PM   #9
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Most aftermarket parts are "for offroad use only", they put that to cover their ass.

Your uncle will do the machining involved, ok. Whos gonna remove the head and reinstall it? If you do it yourself, go ahead, it;ll be a nice weekend project.

If however you cant do it yourself, call any BMW shop and ask them how much they'll change. Make sure you're sitting down when you're on the phone.

If you want my suggestion, buy a set of bimmerbrakes.com headers and call it a day. It;ll give you just about the same power as a p&p job by itself and it'll cost WAY less. AA headers are $1200 last time I checked, do not under any circumstances buy them. They are Identical to BimmerBrakes.com headers, which cost $250.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:35 PM   #10
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wow your a savior man, I was gonna buy them thinking its brand name so its gotta be good, but I was cringing at the price lol, I'll def. check them out...thabks for the help guys
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:34 PM   #11
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The catalytic converters you'll be removing are a part of the original 'header'. The reason they're put so close to the head is that way they'll warm up faster and function sooner. Be advised, if you replace the stock exhaust manifold with headers, you WILL get a check engine light. At that point you have a few options, live with the CEL (worst option imo). Get antifoulers to prevent the post cat sensors from reading properly (better idea). Or finally, have bungs welded onto the exhaust pipes after the main cat (best idea). Oh, and power aside, your car WILL be louder.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Most aftermarket parts are "for offroad use only", they put that to cover their ass.

Your uncle will do the machining involved, ok. Whos gonna remove the head and reinstall it? If you do it yourself, go ahead, it;ll be a nice weekend project.

If however you cant do it yourself, call any BMW shop and ask them how much they'll change. Make sure you're sitting down when you're on the phone.

If you want my suggestion, buy a set of bimmerbrakes.com headers and call it a day. It;ll give you just about the same power as a p&p job by itself and it'll cost WAY less. AA headers are $1200 last time I checked, do not under any circumstances buy them. They are Identical to BimmerBrakes.com headers, which cost $250.
I got some cheaper brand headers from ebay and the welds were OK but when my friend installed them none of the flanges lined up correctly)....the flow may be the same but fitment suuuckkedd!
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:05 PM   #13
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The catalytic converters you'll be removing are a part of the original 'header'. The reason they're put so close to the head is that way they'll warm up faster and function sooner. Be advised, if you replace the stock exhaust manifold with headers, you WILL get a check engine light. At that point you have a few options, live with the CEL (worst option imo). Get antifoulers to prevent the post cat sensors from reading properly (better idea). Or finally, have bungs welded onto the exhaust pipes after the main cat (best idea). Oh, and power aside, your car WILL be louder.
There are other options to keep that CEL off, but you didn't mention those. It can be done in the ECU's firmware.
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:12 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by don_miguel View Post
I got some cheaper brand headers from ebay and the welds were OK but when my friend installed them none of the flanges lined up correctly)....the flow may be the same but fitment suuuckkedd!
I bought some from ebay as well, they're made by M power or something along those lines, I got them for 60 bucks I think...I haven't put them on simply due the fact that I'm skeptical that they'll fit properly, I'm looking to get something er...more well known, so those bimmerbrake ones sound good
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:58 AM   #15
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Not to jack this thread but LOL.
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