alignment for the track

[rider-.]

hey guys, im planning on running maddd hella flush for the streets, but we all know this isnt practical for the track, so I basically need a way to change my camber at the track, and change it back after the track without needing to get an alignment each time. also, my toe will increase as the car gets lowered? but im planning to raise it a bit for the track as it will probably upset geometry being sooo low, not too much higher probably just like a half inch higher. any ideas? only thing i can think of is having two sets of control arms and swapping them out every time, but thats bitch, especially with how close the bolt is to the m3 diff on the one side. any other suggestions? i must not be the only one......

[Mystikal]

I disagree with your problem. Most 3ers like -2.0-2.5 rear camber, which is ideal for both for both the street and track (with a reasonable toe). It's actually less negative than factory specs on some models.

Yes the toe will change slightly, and going with just one alignment for both is a compromise, but not nearly as much as you're sweating it.

[rider-.]

these are the wheels im going to be running, that def looks like more then 2.5 rear camber doesnt it?

[Mystikal]

For sure, I didn't expect you to be running a wheel that aggressive.

If I were in your shoes I'd wait until I have the wheels on, get it aligned, and see how little negative camber you can get away with. You could still reach a compromise point.

[doogee]

I highly recommend reading this thread:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=995556


Changing control arms at the track is going to be pretty unrealistic considering you'd have to unbolt the diff to move it, and you alignment will never be the same anyway.

[rider-.]

thanks ^ that was a pretty good read!

[B6T]

If you have to change camber at the track so the car handles well, chances are its going to drive like shit on the street with the 'hella flush' wheel set up. I don't know, maybe it's just me, but I'd have a hard time justifying wheels that require -5deg of camber and cause the car to feel like its steering with its back wheels over every bump.

Why don't you get wheels that actually fit the car? This seems to be the original thing to do these days.

[rider-.]

im bored of wheels that actually fit, these wheels are already ordered anyways. Heres what im thinking..

19x9.5 +20 fronts with 225's
19x10.5 +22 rears with 235's

take off the inner lip of the rear fenders, and pull them a bit.

run as little camber as possible, hoping for something around 3degrees per side, but i feel like thats not gunna happen at all.

im thinking somewhere near 3degrees will still be fine for the track.