M3 Brakes...

[yellowfever3]

ok guys, so im on the hunt for new rotors and pads all around for my 98 M3. it seems like all the rotors i find are either cross drilled or solid. now im looking for something that is slotted without the cross drills. Anyone got any suggestions?

[Mystikal]

If you're after performance (and you should be, they're brakes) get solid.

[yellowfever3]

Seems like its either solid or drilled. I'd prefer slotted to both of those. I found on the UUC website a pretty good deal. 250 for front slotted rotors, and hawk pads plus shipping and such. i think slotted rotors are the best way to go for performance.

[Dysantic]

I have slotted and dimpled EBC rotors and love them. No worry of them falling apart from the drill holes like many people are afraid of and they give off almost no heat. I got them from my uncle who at the time worked at a dealership and got me a great deal on them.

This is what they look like though:

[yellowfever3]

yeah, those are perfect, but the problem is, its like $850 for the rotors alone all around. and another 200 for pads. so its kind of pricey.

[T.Dot_E30]

Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.

[yellowfever3]

well, i wouldnt go as far as saying its just for show. There is a definite functionality to the "cosmetics" of slots and x drills. For regular street use you wont really notice anything crazy. But for track days, those cosmetics def help. Race cars dont use them because they are fancy looking. but for durability, solid is def the way to go.

[Dysantic]

Yeah, you might have to shop around. I got all 4 rotors and hawk pads for $400, but again, it was from a family member who was able to get them for me almost at cost. Just thought I would throw in my recommendation since I like them so much.

[SiR]

Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30

Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.

100% correct

[T.Dot_E30]

Originally Posted by Dysantic

Yeah, you might have to shop around. I got all 4 rotors and hawk pads for $400, but again, it was from a family member who was able to get them for me almost at cost. Just thought I would throw in my recommendation since I like them so much.

M3 brakes are not as cheap as 328s.

The slotted/drilled vs solid debate is pointless, so i'm not going to bother, the slight improvement you think you feel is not worth the stress issues and pro-longed use most of us put our brakes through. If you want to change your brakes every season to avoid catastrophic failure on a track, then go ahead.

[Mystikal]

Originally Posted by Dysantic

No worry of them falling apart from the drill holes like many people are afraid of and they give off almost no heat.

There are definitely, legit worries. And have you used a thermal device to test them vs. stock solid rotors? You can't overheat stock rotors with good pads, even on a hot summer day on track.

Originally Posted by T.Dot_E30

Solid rotors and good pads are the best, anything else is just for show.

Yes.

[bmwm5lover]

Playing devil's advocate;

So if there is no advantage how come new M/AMG/Corvettes, etc come with drilled stock from the factory? Do you not think that they tested both set ups and found one to perform better, thus they used it on these performance autos?

I am just asking, I prefer slotted for both performance and looks.

[Mystikal]

Originally Posted by bmwm5lover

Playing devil's advocate;

So if there is no advantage how come new M/AMG/Corvettes, etc come with drilled stock from the factory? Do you not think that they tested both set ups and found one to perform better, thus they used it on these performance autos?

I am just asking, I prefer slotted for both performance and looks.

They do technically offer better cooling. However, when you toss drilled rotors onto a car not designed for them two things are happening:

1. The surface area for pad contact is now reduced. The factory drilled/slotted rotors are always absolutely massive to compensate for this.

2. The aftermarket rotors people are buying don't come close to the quality of the factory units. Look at the prices of replacement rotors for a car with a proper OE drilled setup, it's insane.

So yes, in theory, drilled and slotted rotors can lead to better fade resistance. However, attempting to achieve those benefits with a stock sized rotor and at any reasonable price point will only hurt performance and durability.

[richie_s999]

Add in that normal brake fuild boil point is around 150f your more likely to boil your fluid And get brake fade due to no hydraulic pressure long before you overheat the pads and rotors.

My car had/has crossdrilled rotors on the front, they came on the car, I've not experienced any advantage in breaking with them, and will be using solid blanks when I do the brakes this summer.

As for M3 brakes, you also have the option of ordering the EURO rotors, they are solid but have a aluminum cap/center which is lighter and helps with cooling. These seem to be the rotors of choice for most m3's I've seen at the track

[3x Beemer]

Originally Posted by richie_s999

As for M3 brakes, you also have the option of ordering the EURO rotors, they are solid but have a aluminum cap/center which is lighter and helps with cooling. These seem to be the rotors of choice for most m3's I've seen at the track

The reason you see them at the track is because they're a floating rotor. The aluminum centers don't have that much to do with cooling.. it's the expansion and contraction of a normal rotor due to heat cycles with respect to the hat that makes them crack. floating isolates the rotor from the hat.

I've even seen the uuc wilwood big brake kit not recommended for track for that reason only, non floating rotors...