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03-22-2012, 02:55 PM
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#286
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 69
Car: 96 328is
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I'm familiar with the use of peel ply in vacuum bag layups with male or female molds; we use a lot of it for the formula car at Carleton. Pretty usefull stuff! How would you have used it in this layup?
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03-22-2012, 03:18 PM
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#287
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Permanently Dirty
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 446
Car: E30 1990 325I
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Well on the Ryerson formula car  we don't vacuum the nose... Just lay the peel ply ontop of the wet layed fabric.. To help it stick you can put a touch of resin ontop of it (to make sure its attached to all of the surface) and it still comes off nicely
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03-22-2012, 03:32 PM
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#288
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 69
Car: 96 328is
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Is that using a male or female mold? I guess male since you're concerned with the outer surface in that case. Never thought of using peelply on an out-of-vacuum cure, thanks for the idea.
Does it follow compound curves well without vacuum pressure, or do you lay it down in strips?
Chris, is most of the bondo you're using to fix the surface finish or to fill large-scale low spots from the foam plug? The surface didn't look like it needed too much work last time I was over...
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03-22-2012, 03:47 PM
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#289
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Permanently Dirty
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 446
Car: E30 1990 325I
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Depends on how you cut the sheet, but you just gonna peel it off so if you fold it ontop of itself it doesn't matter too much, with a little extra resin it will stick wherever you leave it .. Strips are possible but if you know what your doin you don't need it (band aid fix) ... Female or male makes no diff really, its the same process just no vaccume
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03-22-2012, 03:59 PM
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#290
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 231
Car: 1991 318is
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Hmm interesting stuff. Good to know for next time. I just skim coated the sides/top. There is not a lot of bondo on there, just enough to fill in the little pinholes.
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03-22-2012, 04:13 PM
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#291
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Permanently Dirty
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 446
Car: E30 1990 325I
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And on that note, bondos good for the flow and shape of panel so I uget why youed use it freely.. But if your just filling pinholes gelcoat/primer is the way to go.. Again just food for thought, car looks awesome!
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03-22-2012, 04:25 PM
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#292
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 135
Car: 90-325is 88-M3 87-iX
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The peel ply would make the finished product paintable without sanding so you won't have to worry about exposing the fibres or damaging the part by excessive sanding either.
If you use a peel ply, I would make sure to use a bleeder fabric for excess resin to bleed off into, otherwise it could pool over your peel ply and give you some issues with removal.
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03-22-2012, 04:43 PM
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#293
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Permanently Dirty
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Etobicoke
Posts: 446
Car: E30 1990 325I
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Quote:
Originally Posted by North
The peel ply would make the finished product paintable without sanding so you won't have to worry about exposing the fibres or damaging the part by excessive sanding either.
If you use a peel ply, I would make sure to use a bleeder fabric for excess resin to bleed off into, otherwise it could pool over your peel ply and give you some issues with removal.
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Agreed, although, I've always used a weave and impregnated the fiber with resin off the part, then, with help transferrd it onto the mold ... It helps to make sure there's only a min amount of resin used but the cloth is fully saturated... Never had epoxy dripping
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03-22-2012, 05:12 PM
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#294
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Halifax, NS
Posts: 135
Car: 90-325is 88-M3 87-iX
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If you're not using a vacuum bag, then it might not bleed out as much. With an intitial 50:50 epoxy to fibre mix it should bleed to an ideal 40:60 if all goes well, so the epoxy would need a bleeder fabric over the peel ply to absorb it.
Impregnating the fiber off the part is definitely the way to go.
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03-22-2012, 06:56 PM
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#295
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 231
Car: 1991 318is
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Thanks for the tips guys. I'm new to composite parts (first time ive ever touched fiberglass lol) so this is good info.
I did a bit of a prime check today, and it doesnt look half bad. Apart from some tiny pinholes you can see up close. I have some filler primer stuff that i'm going to try out.
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03-31-2012, 06:00 PM
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#296
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 231
Car: 1991 318is
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03-31-2012, 06:32 PM
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#297
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BMW Tuner
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 850
Car: BMW 330CI
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I have to see this in person... Amazing job!
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04-01-2012, 12:17 AM
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#298
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if I lived . I would be ~
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 5,797
Car: e30 with e91 beater
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This has turned epic.
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04-01-2012, 08:03 AM
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#299
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 231
Car: 1991 318is
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Thanks guys!! Super pumped! Barrie stop by anytime!
Hopefully going to dive into some engine work today.
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04-15-2012, 06:38 PM
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#300
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 231
Car: 1991 318is
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So the motor is all back together. Found out i had (very) low compression in cylinder 3 because a valve seal was pooched. Replaced that and lapped a few valves and she's all good. Swaped the block for another one i picked up. Hopefully it's in a bit better shape. After finishing up the engine, having only the oil pan left to put on, I made a stupid mistake and knocked over the pan and managed to break a off corner. So I have another one on the way, and that's all i'm waiting for to finish up the engine.
This weekend started re-wiring the car. Hoping to have the wiring all done and engine back in the car by the end of next week.
Also got my wheels on friday and just had to test fit them!
Looks like i'll need a bigger spacer in the front. The rim is just touching the strut.
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