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Old 04-26-2011, 09:47 PM   #91
E30M42cab
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^No Steve, Sam used an airgun on the three nuts that holt the strut bearing to the tower... well, he tightened one with the air gun and snapped it off. I was like WTF?! 16 ft/LBS motherf*cker!!!! NOT FULL AIR GUN TORQUE! It's okay, I don't mind doing the job again.

I actually told Kevin that you did that to me when I was putting them on his car, hehe
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:04 PM   #92
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I really wanted to get to the bottom of that fuel leak so the car went back up on jack stands again today. I swear this car spends more time in the air then a goddamn Boeing!!! Technically I only put the front on jack stands so the car is still touching the ground. At this point I consider that progress.

I figured this would also be a good time to install my skid plate. Thanks again Herb!



It wasn't hard to install at all. You definitely want to put a piece of wood or something between the radiator core support and the radiator just to make sure you don't drill through it!

Needs a good cleaning...



Now about that fuel leak; it's gone. I started the car and there is no leak anymore. It definitely was leaking, and I can even see areas where it looks like fuel was leaking but it has apparently fixed itself. I'm going to run the car tomorrow for a while just to be sure.

Has that ever happened to anyone before?
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:12 PM   #93
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It's probably happened to El Gato. I'm sure it will be back... fuel doesn't just stop leaking.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:46 PM   #94
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fuel doesn't just stop leaking.
I know and that is what makes me worried. I wanted to fix it now because I don't want it to happen again when I'm driving.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:41 PM   #95
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Yesterday when I was underneath the car installing my skid plate, I noticed that my a/c compressor didn't even have a belt on it.

Now I was going to pull out the a/c anyways but I was planning on waiting for warmer weather so I could at least see if it worked. I'm assuming if the belt had been removed then the compressor wasn't working. I tested to see if there was any R12 in the system and it was completely empty so I started unbolting.

I removed the lines from the firewall to the compressor and the compressor itself. Tomorrow I'll go for the condenser.

Can I remove the condenser without removing the radiator? I read a post that you can unbolt the top of the rad and tilt it back far enough to pull the condenser. Has anyone done this?
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Old 04-29-2011, 05:47 PM   #96
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I know and that is what makes me worried. I wanted to fix it now because I don't want it to happen again when I'm driving.
Lots of e30s leak fuel with a full tank, did you use some fuel between leak / no leak? I mean apart from dribbling it on the floor. Although in time that would do the trick too.

Maybe you have that new congealing fuel. Look for scabs on your fuel lines. (nyuk)
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:11 PM   #97
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Lots of e30s leak fuel with a full tank
That's true but my tank is definitely not full and and it was coming from the front of the car. It looks as if it was leaking from where the soft fuel return line connects with the hard line but I am not certain.

I guess I'll have to wait and see if it happens again.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:51 AM   #98
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There so many places for fuel to leak on a 25 year old e30.. the most likely places are the vent line on the driver side top of the tank, which is inaccessible other than dropping the tank.
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:25 PM   #99
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I was trying to figure out why my horn fuse (#7 15 amp) keeps blowing as soon as I push the horn.

I checked the wiring from both of the horns to the point when they enter the engine bay. From there they join the wiring harness and I can't see anymore. Everything looked okay and there didn't seem to be any exposed or cut wires. Is it possible that there is a short in the actually horns themselves?

I tried to remove the connectors from the horns, but they are so stuck on that I can't separate them. The tabs on the sides already broke off as soon as I touched them. Is there any safe way to clean the dirt off of them?

Would it be a bad idea to just put a 20 amp or higher fuse in and see what happens?
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:22 PM   #100
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Yes, bad idea.

If you can't see / trace the wires, you won't be able to see where the fire starts. Spray some penetrating oil in the connectors to pull them, but I doubt its the horn. Its likely the wiring.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:42 PM   #101
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Someone should call Hell and see if it's frozen over because my car is out of the garage!!!



I think you can see a pig flying around in that photo... It may look like my car was in an accident but it'll all be put back together tomorrow (I removed the grille to get to the condenser lines).



And of course a new day brings new issues. Todays topic, overheating.

I changed the coolant and the oil. The oil level was good and I bled the coolant. I took the car for a short drive and the temperature quickly rose to between three quarters and the redline. Shut the car off and pushed it back home.

Topped up the coolant and bled the system again. Started the car and let it idle until it reached halfway. No air bubbles. Took it for a drive again and it sat right at half. When I parked it back in my driveway and let it idle, it went back up to three quarters and didn't go any higher.

I'm thinking it is my thermostat. Is there somewhere else I should be looking or is that probably it?
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:51 PM   #102
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Changing the thermostat can't hurt. If it's getting hot standing still, your fan clutch is probably done. My experience with thermostats is always that they're stuck open and undercooling the car.

On the other hand, let the temp gauge get back to 3/4, and wack the dash and cluster with your hand to see if it jumps back to even. F-ing clusters like to jump around all the time.

Waterpump okay? Belt tight enough?
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:28 PM   #103
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car sits nice!!

you're spending some quality time on your car and it's paying off!!

Keep it up and don't loose momentum!!
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:44 PM   #104
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Yeah, I vote fan clutch. They're almost all going bad by now with their age. A new one in my car took me from 3/4 to solid 1/2 steady.

And +1 on the bang the dash, but that's usually when it acts up quickly, like you're driving at 1/2 and it goes "BOING" to full red.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:30 AM   #105
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There so many places for fuel to leak on a 25 year old e30.
I located the fuel leak and I think I managed to fix it. Hopefully.

As I was bleeding the coolant it started to leak again. I go t underneath and it looked like it was coming from where the rubber fuel return line meets the solid fuel return line. I tightened the hose clamp and it stopped. It hasn't leaked since so I'll just keep an eye on it.

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Yes, bad idea.

If you can't see / trace the wires, you won't be able to see where the fire starts.
True. The car had an aftermarket alarm. It did have it's own siren but I'm thinking it could have been connected to the horn somewhere and maybe that's where the short is.

Anyone with experience with aftermarket alarms?
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