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Old 12-11-2010, 06:07 PM   #1
Ceeker
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e30 technical question

heating issue: changed the thermostat to 70C had an 80 before. Changed the fan coupling; changed the heater core and tap; changed the update inline valve on the heater hose in the engine bay. Bled the system thoroughly.

WHY AM I STILL GETTING LUKE WARM AIR!!!! ARG!!!!???
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1 90 325is white - keepin
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latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:13 PM   #2
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Same thing happened with my E30. I thought it might have been a dying heater core.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HavocSteve View Post
Same thing happened with my E30. I thought it might have been a dying heater core.
Steve, I had all these spare parts so I am lucky but now I have spent probably 8 hours trying to figure this shit out. I don't think it is the rad because it would otherwise be over heating. I suspect it could be the heater dial/switch in the cabin. May not be sending the proper signal to the heater tap to open. I mean the system isn't complicated.
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I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:45 AM   #4
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Theres a recall for the cooling system, where they reroute the flow of coolant (in the process give you a new thermostat and some other stuff). You might want to check into if its been done for your e30, if it hasnt its worth getting shit changed for free, and potentially fixing your problem. I remember i had it done on my 87 325i when i had it.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:10 AM   #5
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Probably the heat mix dial linkage or:

Get it hot, put the heat on full and high, and open the hood.
Flex the small coolant line that goes from the back of the engine to the firewall. At the same time flex the top and return rad hoses. Sometimes air gets trapped in the heater core and you need to flex it that way. Try bleeding at the thermostat housing, repeat.

If it doesn't improve after 2 or 3 repeats it has to be the heat mix dial control.

It is possible a previous owner used tap water and the heater core is all loaded with calcium, but that's the least likely thing I can think of.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noid View Post
Theres a recall for the cooling system, where they reroute the flow of coolant (in the process give you a new thermostat and some other stuff). You might want to check into if its been done for your e30, if it hasnt its worth getting shit changed for free, and potentially fixing your problem. I remember i had it done on my 87 325i when i had it.
What cars were covered under that?
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:46 AM   #7
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enjoy:

http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/saf-sec-sur/...f=SearchResult
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:11 AM   #8
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Probably the heater core... if you have no air in your system and a good coolant flow.

If you want to try and save your heater core, you can disconnect it, flush it with water, and then fill it with CLR, let it sit over night and then flush again, connect fill/bleed your cooling system and see how it goes. If that doesn't work, new heater core time.
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:43 AM   #9
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thanks for all your input; but in my original post it does indicate I changed everything including the heater valve (SIB) in the engine bay which was a recall due to heater cores exploding causes the drivers legs to get burned. they typically get clogged when coolant isn't flushed regularly.

You can also check for updates on the heater tap as well.

parts changed:

- thermostat -71 degree Celsius
- fan coupling
- heater core
- heater tap
- heater dial
- heater valve-engine bay

So...I suspect it being the thermostat as when I sit idling the temp gauge starts climbing but as I accelerate the temp gauge drops and stays at 1/4. which I believe isn't high enough to give adequate heat to the compartment. I believe I am going to need a 80 degree one to fix this problem.
most likely oem as aftermarket sometimes does funny things with cars. I also read in another site that omitting the heater valve in the engine bay eliminates the restriction and allows better flow to the core; once done it was noted that sufficient heat returned into the cabin.
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I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!

Last edited by Ceeker; 12-14-2010 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:22 PM   #10
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Any chance you got the input / output lines reversed on the core?

I would think a higher temp thermostat would be in order, 70*C is too low IMO. For rising temps at idle, that sounds like a fan clutch. Even when they appear ok, I've never had a E30 with rising temps that a new fan clutch didn't fix. They're fairly cheap new at autopartsway.ca where I got the one in my E30 I have now.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:57 PM   #11
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Any chance you got the input / output lines reversed on the core? aluminum pipe at bottom and black plastic up top. :-)

I would think a higher temp thermostat would be in order, 70*C is too low IMO. For rising temps at idle, that sounds like a fan clutch. Even when they appear ok, I've never had a E30 with rising temps that a new fan clutch didn't fix. They're fairly cheap new at autopartsway.ca where I got the one in my E30 I have now.

it's possible, anything is possible, but it's highly unlikely since I've been doing this for a bit too long now..lol


Fan clutch is new. rising temp with a fan clutch is normal to operating temp. But mine is below operating temp so it will climb while idling. but because the thermostat is perhaps staying open it isn't allowing the motor to get to operating temp. so the clutch disengages. have to remember everything is connected and not isolated. so I used the process of elimination to narrow things down.
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I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:57 PM   #12
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... I'm confused as to why you put in a 70*C thermostat?
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #13
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... I'm confused as to why you put in a 70*C thermostat?
that was the only thing available at the time "new" which was oem. I was told it was 80. and upon pickup turned out to be 71 . I didn't want aftermarket. since it was 15.00 I figured I'd try my hands at the lack of heat problem. Thermostat was the first thing changed. So I went from there. now I'm going back there. There can't be any other explanation for my problem as I changed everything related.
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I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
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Old 12-14-2010, 05:08 PM   #14
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put in an 80 and be done with it. Your old one was probably stuck open, so put an 80 back in and you'll be fine.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:29 PM   #15
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+1 Failing heater core. Same exact thing happened to me.
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