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Old 12-02-2010, 05:25 PM   #1
K///Mikes
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subframe bushing DIY?

just like the title says, i plan on changing my subframe bushings this weekend. ive found plenty of DIY's but they all tell u how to do it when u pull the subframe completly out, found tid bits of info but nuthin in full detail. i baught a 6" puller for the job, sum PB blaster just in case. if n e one has any info that be great! thanx again!
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:45 PM   #2
Bullet Ride
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here's a rig some guy came up with that he used for on car removal
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1389953
or there's the old fashion way...burn them out with a torch
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:11 PM   #3
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Take the subframe out, it's not so bad. You can do your trailing arm bushings at the same time too.
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
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here's a rig some guy came up with that he used for on car removal
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1389953
or there's the old fashion way...burn them out with a torch
forget the torch....camp fire in a friends back yard !!
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:47 PM   #5
InfiniteDice
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Unless you have a special tool for removing them it's better to pull the subframe.

Problem is the subframe can still get seized on there really well and it might take hours of terrible language and perhaps some blood to get it off.

I've done it twice in the driveway and it's not a job for the timid.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:39 PM   #6
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i really didnt wanna take the easy way out and just take it to my machanic but from reading and reading it seems like it could be a very painful n lots of cursing on saturday. if never done this type of job before so im a little worried that once i start i kinda have to finish, one way or another.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:37 PM   #7
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You might find a few pointers in my thread from when I replaced all my bushings earlier this year
http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132524
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:23 PM   #8
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Honestly, I did my subframe bushings in an hour, without removing the subframe.

Its documented in a bunch of places, but I'll give you the gist of it:

- support the car, etc (not via the subframe), support the subframe separately
- remove the long bolts holding the frame in place
- bang on the frame until it drops, keep a jack under it so it only drops 1"
- buy a dent puller (about $20)
- put the dent puller shaft up through the old bushing, using a large washer and nut in between the subframe and the car body
- from this position, if you were to pull and bang the dent puller, the force is slamming into the bushing, downwards (but it won't come out just yet!)

Next, you're going to heat (NOT BURN) the bushing. I used a cookie sheet as a shield to shield the sensitive bits nearby. A propane torch, moving around the whole bushing area (from the outside) will gently heat the rubber. 10 minutes (a full ten minutes!) and the bushing starts to make crackling sounds like bacon.

Note that the heat is not applied to the bushing, but the subframe. The frame literally begins to slowly melt the outside of the bushing, and it turns to a slippery (hot) goo. It really was as easy as it sounds.

At this point, a few sharp blows with the dent puller and the bushing was on the ground. I lubed up some new poly bushings and slipped them in, bolted up, done.

Repeat on the other side.

On another E30 I owned the subframe was seized to the body. Doesn't matter which method you choose, this is a real problem for which there is no easy answer.

Good luck!
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:33 AM   #9
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On another E30 I owned the subframe was seized to the body. Doesn't matter which method you choose, this is a real problem for which there is no easy answer.

Good luck!

The solution to that is to knock the pins out from from underneath, then start beating the shit out of it.

Or, before you even start, loosen all the brackets and pins and roll the car back and forth in the driveway slamming on the brakes.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:37 AM   #10
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Other solution is to get a 5/8" tap and tap the bottom of the bushing. Insert a 5/8" bolt then go inside the car with a piece of steel bar or threaded rod that fits in the subframe pin hole and start pounding with a BFH.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:50 AM   #11
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Yes that's how I managed to eventually get it out (bullet ride). Funny thing is the bottom 1/4 of the bushing broke off... that thing was really jammed.

On my first car it practically fell off, so this varies greatly by car.
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Old 12-03-2010, 12:40 PM   #12
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The solution to that is to knock the pins out from from underneath, then start beating the shit out of it.

Or, before you even start, loosen all the brackets and pins and roll the car back and forth in the driveway slamming on the brakes.
My old eta subframe was SO stuck, that leverage / hammer / bashing eventually *broke* the subframe where the bushing goes, leaving about 1" of metal stuck to the body. I was installed a new subframe anyway, but even an air chisel didn't remove the metal right away. Corrosion had set in and fused the two bits of metal literally into one.

Good times, I remember thinking then I'd look back on it and laugh, and I am now.

edit: On my current car the subframe lowered down on it's own without so much as a touch, but then it's got 1" of Krown build up to protect it and get me dirty.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:09 PM   #13
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well ill be tackeling this 2morrow morning starting bright and early, gonna get a 5/8 tap and bolts to go along with it just in case, either ill come back and report happy or pissed off lol! hopfully all goes well! and thanx for all ur info and knowledge! u guys have been a very great help to me!
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:31 PM   #14
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yeah definitly a BIG pain in the AS*!! number 1 my POS jack couldnt even jack the car high as i would have wanted it. got the bolts on the side and the nut off, pounded the bolt up. subframe would not for the life of me drop low enough, the metal peice in the middle of the bushing is sepparating from the rest of the rubber and its not moving anywhere! think im gonna have to swallow my pride here n take it to my machanic this week.
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:34 AM   #15
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subframe would not for the life of me drop low enough, the metal peice in the middle of the bushing is sepparating from the rest of the rubber and its not moving anywhere! .
That's because the upper part of the bushing is corroded and stuck to the carrier on the chassis. This is where you need the 5/8" tap and bolt so you can hammer it out.
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