Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > maXimum Tech > 3 Series > E30 (1983 - 1991)
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 11-22-2010, 11:26 AM   #1
Ceeker
Parts hoarding partner...
 
Ceeker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,374
e30 - problem starting

Car ran fine - well maintained I removed a cable from the fuse block and saw a spark. Replaced it and now the car cranks but doesn't start. I opened up the shrink tube on the 50amp fuse near the battery and it doesn't seem like anything is wrong with it. How can one tell if the fuseable is blown? I traced the other lines and don't believe there is another one to locate? All the fuses in in the fuse box are good.

Help would be appreciated since this is the last day of mind weather and I'm outside..LOL.
__________________

I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
Ceeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 12:29 PM   #2
everlast
if I lived . I would be ~
 
everlast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 5,847
Do you have a multimeter? Test for 12V on the hot side of the fuses to make sure you didn't blow a fuse link somewhere else.. Try jumping the main relay in case its cacked. Pull a spark plug wire, hold it near ground (1cm away from any grounded metal) crank and check for spark.

*might* be the ECU though. While in my experience its almost never the ECU, large sparks tend to create voltage spikes that toast things electronic.
__________________
everlast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 12:58 PM   #3
K///Mikes
2nd Gear Member
 
K///Mikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Whitby
Posts: 185
+1 on what everlast said, u can also test a fuse by using a multimeter by using the tone setting or the ohm's settin, take the fuse out n put one lead on one side, the other lead on the other and if u get a beep then its good, if u dont then it may be blown, if using the ohm setting, and the fuse is blown u will get an infinit ohm reading, if not blown u will show almost no to little ohm resistance.
K///Mikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 01:06 PM   #4
Ceeker
Parts hoarding partner...
 
Ceeker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,374
Quote:
Originally Posted by K///Mikes View Post
+1 on what everlast said, u can also test a fuse by using a multimeter by using the tone setting or the ohm's settin, take the fuse out n put one lead on one side, the other lead on the other and if u get a beep then its good, if u dont then it may be blown, if using the ohm setting, and the fuse is blown u will get an infinit ohm reading, if not blown u will show almost no to little ohm resistance.
thanks guys...!! upon closer inspection and a test with a test probe found no power going to car. Cut it out and shows its blown. I was hopin and prayin it was this cause I wasn't about to go through testing everything.lol.
__________________

I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
Ceeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 01:34 PM   #5
Ceeker
Parts hoarding partner...
 
Ceeker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,374
what is the best option here: I have a spare which I cut from my parts car. Do I solder it back with heat shrink or can I just crimp it will connectors and heat shrink?
__________________

I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
Ceeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 02:16 PM   #6
everlast
if I lived . I would be ~
 
everlast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 5,847
To clarify what "it" is, you're talking about what exactly? A fuse link near the battery?

If you're talking about the large gauge wire, I'd do a solder job myself, with shrink wrap. For this type of thing, I usually strip about 1" of wire, spread the strands apart on each that I'm going to connect, and slip them together end to end, then twist them back into a tight bundle. Note that this means there is twice as much material there, plus solder, so your shrink wrap has to be about a 3:1 reduction when shrunk at minimum.
__________________
everlast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2010, 08:45 PM   #7
Ceeker
Parts hoarding partner...
 
Ceeker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 3,374
Quote:
Originally Posted by everlast View Post
To clarify what "it" is, you're talking about what exactly? A fuse link near the battery?

If you're talking about the large gauge wire, I'd do a solder job myself, with shrink wrap. For this type of thing, I usually strip about 1" of wire, spread the strands apart on each that I'm going to connect, and slip them together end to end, then twist them back into a tight bundle. Note that this means there is twice as much material there, plus solder, so your shrink wrap has to be about a 3:1 reduction when shrunk at minimum.
Yes, I would say that is the thorough method and the way I also do it. But I bought a heat shrink/solder connector. When crimped and heated up melts the solder crimp and then shrinks around it. Way easier and I actually managed to get additional heat shrink around it and worked great! thanks for the tip. :-)
__________________

I think I've had 14 bmw's in 4 years.
2 IX's -sold and parts
2 325i 4 dr - sold
4 318is all white - sold and parts
1 87 325is red - parts
1 89 325i vert grey - parts
1 90 325is white - keepin
1 87 325i vert -red - keepin
latest addition 1 88-325is red - parts
latest addition 1 89-325i vert - white -fixin/sold
latest addition 1 92-318i vert - blue - parts
latest addition 1 87 325is blk - parts.

latest addition as of 2013-Gold 87-325is auto! it's a keeper!
Ceeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Maxbimmer Copyright 2001 - 2014