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Old 11-22-2010, 10:57 AM   #1
sweet6e30
1st Gear Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34
My E30 4door Lemans Blue build

Hi everyone, I was posting a bit over at DTM, but theres virtually no action there at all, so i thought that this forum would be better. So heres pretty much a copy of what i had posted there.

The Project begins

Over the past couple of years or so Ive been slowly aiming for a restored lightly modified fun car to drive. When i first picked up my E30 it was in really rough shape mechanically, the t belt was about to snap!!! but the frame and body were in great shape. The Paint was dead, and the interior needed some help. the body of the car has 380,000kms and has a fresh 2nd M20B25 motor installed from the previous owner.
I am a mechanic that works at an all in one shop, we do mostly JDM cars/motors/swaps/body/paint/ and go fast goodies




list of mods:thumbs:

Billy sport shocks
Tokiko springs ( front spring lower half coil cut, rear no pads
ground control rear upper shock mounts
front and rear strut tower bars
ESM 17" wheels +20 offset
215/45/17 Nexxen 3000's
custom exhuast Cat delete
CAI with custom heat sheild
Walbro255 fuel pump with new lines
Dinan DME Chip (very noticable difference in the power band)
short shifter and all bushings
4 x Brembo blank discs ( used to have zimmerman x drilled garbage)
Hawk hp pads
replaced all 4 calipers ( Girling painted silver)
SS brake lines
sparco shift knob
m tec steering wheel
OEM M speedo cluster face
de badge
light tinted tail lights
smoked front signals
HID projectors 6000k
eurolight hi beam
black interior door cards
91 plastic bumper conversion OEM
ix wheel flares and skirts OEM
front '87 plastic valence OEM
rear lower valence( fiberglass unknown replica)
new OEM hood
new OEM front fender x2
replace all 4 doors NO RUST ( a real find at the scrapper)
front and rear sway bar re-inforcement
CUSTOM M5 Lemans Blue varient paint ( something from Mercedez, but not telling what ingredient) LOLZ, but it pops more than regular M5 lemans blue
Autometer sport comp II guages ( oil pressure/water temp/ volt)
custom guage pods and mount
front euro grills with eye lids
sony explode stereo/ premium speakers
redline heavy shockporof pink oil in trans and diff
motul 15w50 syth all the time

the entire body was done over 3 days, i killed myself almost 20 hours a day
a few friends helped me out with prepping/ sanding
all the panels and frame were painted inside and out Properly)

the car still has to be wet sanded and polished.

ok heres the pics!








[IMG]/http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee14/s13size/untitled.jpg[/IMG]

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Old 11-22-2010, 10:57 AM   #2
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34









se the insides of the parts got sprayed and cleared


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Old 11-22-2010, 10:58 AM   #3
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34
Then the entire car was primed and sealed





SOME MAGIC on the Computer!







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Old 11-22-2010, 11:00 AM   #4
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34











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Old 11-22-2010, 11:03 AM   #5
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34



yeah, the exhaust will be reworked soon, Ill probably make a complete engine back at the shop. i might even boost the M20, but for now just NA. so either way, new exhaust. I got a complete motor build to do on my SR for my s13, So one thing at a time.



heres some new and old pics i thought i would throw up. Got a few things to do on the car over the winter. Pelican parts btw FOR THE WIN. even with shipping and exchange rate it turns out cheaper than my already cost price on OEM and WorldPac prices CDN funds. So a little advice to all for parts price hunting, SHOP AROUND and DO YOUR REASEARCH, spend once SMARTLY and not 5 times over !

My headgasket is leaking ( common for M20 eventually)

SO
- my pops picked up a clean "I" head at his friends scrapper just across from Ottawa on the frenchie side! getting a complete refresh now. that way its
a matter of taking off the head and replacing the head alltogether. To have one ready to go makes sense.

-headgasket and all head seals/gaskets/bolts
-t belt,w pump, seals

anyways







When i converted to the plastic bumpers i picked up a front '86-'87 valence, made it fit and close to flush. ( So long as it sits even) So for anyone wanting to do it, you need to trim the ends a little and mount it a little differently.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:03 AM   #6
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34

HAAA! what a find at Cambodian Tire just what i needed for the front valence not bad for 19.99( already opened for clearence) gonna wire it up to the existing oem fog light harness and switch! It never hurts to browse!





the ix fender flares come real close to the tires, at full lock and turning they rub in the front, the rears rub a bit on acceleration. the tokico springs are ok but are not stiff enough, the typical ASSS sag due to soft spring rate, so ill be going with the H&R race springs and go with a 40 profile tire instead of the 45 profile.




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Old 11-22-2010, 11:04 AM   #7
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34
I ended up changing out all the shifter bushings and rod, its not too too bad doing it with the tranny on the car, but its tight, Ended up unbolting the trans mount and letting the tranny drop a little to get to the shifter linkage u joint, the so called "bitchh clip" was easy as pie. skinny precision screw drivers work well to lever the clip up. If you r going to do the shifter linkage CHANGE EVERYTHING including the ROD, that way the locking clips at the but ends have good strong new ridges to lock to. old rods tend to corrode away where the clips lock to making it easy for the locking tabs to fly off.
the Ralco RZ Shifter is awsome.
the shifter if awsome now, no sagging and no floppyness, i found a Pelican parts forum step by step .
heres the link
Pelican Technical Article: Replacing BMW Shift Bushings






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Old 11-22-2010, 11:05 AM   #8
sweet6e30
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Posts: 34








A little Nostalgic pin for my german slider! and yes I am half german, on my pops side. stubborn and workaholics! lolz

Scored BIG at the scrapper on an M cluster trim, and a perfect condition M tec sterring wheel,

I made a guage bezel for three guages autometer sport comp II( oil pressure, water temp, and volts) its aluminum plating painted SEM trim black. i used the autometer angle rings to face the driver side to add a little style, it also helped with clearence on the back side, as i did not want to cut into the OEM center console, the plate is bent shaped and anchored behind the ash tray with two screws. snug and tight.

picked up some black door cards from california on Cheesebay. all 4 complete for 100 bux, they r mint condition.



all i got to do if get a black carpet ( stock interiors.com)
and find some black sport seats ( its like trying to find wmd in Iraq):shocked:
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:07 AM   #9
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 34
I picked up another intake manifold, with rebuilt injectors from a great e bay seller out of Windsor, Ont. i got my bumpers and ix stuff from him too. goes by the seller 'alexgoesracing' really cool guy and hes always got some good stuff.

got some good old paint i wonder whats gonna happen with those colors!!!

brainy smurf pointing out something thats also gonna happen when the head arrives.







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Old 11-22-2010, 11:08 AM   #10
sweet6e30
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Location: Montreal
Posts: 34
I picked up a winter beater, and had my bottlecaps kicking around, so i decided to make them usefull! hahahahaa representing the dtm korean style! its great on gas!




heres my other slider that is going to get some major attention very soon








So for now Im gonna howl like this guy here.........



and praise at this guy herecause TOP GEAR is the tits!



thanks for all your comments. Both projects have been years in the making.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:09 AM   #11
sweet6e30
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Montreal
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some general parts came in from Pelican:
A complete head gasket kit with everything needed, head bolts, and w pump is the tits!









a nice little TDC and breakdown positioning in the T belt kit from Contitech:thumbs:
Also thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the tensioner spring seeing that springs do loose resistance with age and also corrode.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:10 AM   #12
sweet6e30
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Got a good start on things already, and found some not so good stuff





Good old 885 head!


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Old 11-22-2010, 11:12 AM   #13
sweet6e30
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going to clean up the injector harness and connectors as well, found some classic "BMW" corrosion on the main connector!



Theres a lot of cleaning up to do with over 20 years of shiit built up, this car will never see another winter again.





some more progress. Gonna hit Pelican up for a couple more things.



more to come.......
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:13 AM   #14
sweet6e30
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Location: Montreal
Posts: 34
In medevil times.. the saying goes OFF WITH HER HEAD! muhaaaaaaahh!

The Correct Reverse Torx Socket is E14, for the headbolts if anyone wants to know.





well on a 20 year motor, you'd expect some crud to build up.[puke]




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Old 11-22-2010, 11:14 AM   #15
sweet6e30
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Location: Montreal
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Well if this is not testament to a SOLID MOTOR those Octoberfest Sausage eating Krouts sure built a GEM. even after 20 years the hatching in the cylinder walls is still there.



so the cleaning began, I used a blade to scrape off any gasket boogers, but it actually came off pretty much all intact.
cleaned up the deck of the block and the pistons one by one turning the crank ( but always remembering the turn counts and returning in reverse to the Proper TDC positiion that i first started with.) i used brake and parts cleaner and WD40 with 3m Red scotch pads all with some good old elbow grease.






I was expecting some sort of minor Piston pitting damage from minor detonation that the M20 is known for as it leans out a bit at high Rpm. BUT HOLY SMOKES nothing the pistons were in Amazing shape





Once all cleaned up i cleaned out the head bolt holes shooting brake cleaner in forcing all the junk that fell in out. The threads r now all clean and ready to accept new bolts. I also sprayed WD40 on the pistons and deck of the block and turned the crank like before to line the walls to prevent and rusting as it pretty cool and a bit damp now at this time of year. It doesnt take long at all to start rusting especially exposed as it is.
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