Idle "flipped"

[mgunter]

I'm hoping you guys can help me figure this out.
I have a '85 325e and my idle is completely flipped. When the car is cold it idles at ~750 and when warm it idles at ~1200.
Has anyone else encountered this issue?
I've looked through the bently (and tested some coolant sensors/switches) but nothing really fits my symptoms.

Thanks

[MarkD]

Originally Posted by mgunter

I'm hoping you guys can help me figure this out.
I have a '85 325e and my idle is completely flipped. When the car is cold it idles at ~750 and when warm it idles at ~1200.
Has anyone else encountered this issue?
I've looked through the bently (and tested some coolant sensors/switches) but nothing really fits my symptoms.

Thanks

Check for an intake air leak. You can use a propane torch to help you out as explained here:
http://www.vw-resource.com/air_inleakage.html

[mgunter]

I used some brake clean and sprayed the hoses that were cracked back when the idle started acting up a bit, but maybe i'll have to go back over them because it is getting worse and i'll spray them all this time.

Thanks!

[mgunter]

No luck on that one. Could this symptom be coolant related? Because recently i've been smelling a faint smell of coolant, but not all the time. The idle issue is all the time (as well as some hesitation), but maybe they could be linked?

[Wannabe]

Mike...

FYI - your timing belt and waterpump were done @ RMP motors

-James

[Wannabe]

Also,
If you take off one side of the strut tower, you will find the Idle control valve. It's literally right under the bar. You can control the idle like that for a quick fix.

[Ceeker]

Clean your idle control valve. Check wiring going to it as well for breaks. I've recently had this problem with my 325i and also checked the Bentley manual. You should have a control unit behind the glove box cover located on the ceiling of your glove box. earlier version e30 have a 2 connector ICV which have a control unit separate from the DME. The later version is a 3 pin conn omits the control unit which is in the DME. Mine would warm up no problem and then bounce back and forth violently from 500-2000rpm. Finally after changing everything I decided to replace the DME. the problem was solved.

[mgunter]

Thanks James!
The water pump "gasket" is leaking...it looks like they just slapped on a bunch of silicone in there instead of using the proper gasket (it's a mess). I was going to make fun of your "handywork" if you were the one who changed it!
And if I adjust the idle, I could get it to idle normal at either cold or warm, but not both since one is higher than it should be and one is lower than it should be. But i'll definitely take it off and give it a clean...if I can get it off this time. I couldn't seem to get the connector off it the other night...it was stuck on there pretty good and it was too cold, too dark, and when I went to remove it I noticed the coolant leak

[mgunter]

Oh and I still have the release bearing, disc, and pressure plate if you want them! I was going to figure out something cool to do with them but...meh...they're yours if you want them!

[Ceeker]

Originally Posted by mgunter

Thanks James!
The water pump "gasket" is leaking...it looks like they just slapped on a bunch of silicone in there instead of using the proper gasket (it's a mess). I was going to make fun of your "handywork" if you were the one who changed it!
And if I adjust the idle, I could get it to idle normal at either cold or warm, but not both since one is higher than it should be and one is lower than it should be. But i'll definitely take it off and give it a clean...if I can get it off this time. I couldn't seem to get the connector off it the other night...it was stuck on there pretty good and it was too cold, too dark, and when I went to remove it I noticed the coolant leak

also check the ICV connection for corrosion. the fact it is hard to get off tells me your pin connections may need cleaning. use brake clean or contact cleaner - this can also cause erratic idle.