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Old 10-05-2010, 02:15 PM   #31
starscream
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Seems like the reinforcements are expensive (especially if you dont have your own welder).

Is it immediately required? Or is it something that I can track the car for a bit while saving and then get it? Any idea on difficulty level of subframe removal? OR is it better to just take it to a shop?

Also is there a factory service manual, any recommendation on where to get it from on the cheaps? I would assume a decent bit of my questions would be answered by looking through that.

For those that actually track their E36 where did you start? Like in my head I feel I am getting too ambitious by thinking RIGHT OFF THE BAT, that I need to do all sorts of stuff. Almost seems like before my first track day I'll be spending 2-3 grand ontop of the car before even being able to take it on the street. Like I totally get that some things need to be done, but how much of it needs to be done NOW vs in a bit so the costs can be spread over time sorta speak.

I should also note, I am mechanically inclined. So its not that I fear doing it as this car wouldnt be my DD so I can take my time. However there are some things that I am kinda iffy on doing from lack of doing them (like subframe removal) never really had to do it so lack of experience there. But removing intake manifolds, exhaust, doing turbo work (on my previous cars) and all that no problem. Just a bit of a FYI.
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:42 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by starscream View Post
Seems like the reinforcements are expensive (especially if you dont have your own welder).

Is it immediately required? Or is it something that I can track the car for a bit while saving and then get it? Any idea on difficulty level of subframe removal? OR is it better to just take it to a shop?

Also is there a factory service manual, any recommendation on where to get it from on the cheaps? I would assume a decent bit of my questions would be answered by looking through that.

For those that actually track their E36 where did you start? Like in my head I feel I am getting too ambitious by thinking RIGHT OFF THE BAT, that I need to do all sorts of stuff. Almost seems like before my first track day I'll be spending 2-3 grand ontop of the car before even being able to take it on the street. Like I totally get that some things need to be done, but how much of it needs to be done NOW vs in a bit so the costs can be spread over time sorta speak.

I should also note, I am mechanically inclined. So its not that I fear doing it as this car wouldnt be my DD so I can take my time. However there are some things that I am kinda iffy on doing from lack of doing them (like subframe removal) never really had to do it so lack of experience there. But removing intake manifolds, exhaust, doing turbo work (on my previous cars) and all that no problem. Just a bit of a FYI.
I got the bentley manual pdf, so pm me your email address and i will sent it.

second you will have to judge the condition of ur subframe, and consider the milage the wear and tear and the PO's.. if they tracked it or drove harsh or if it looks like they didnt take good care of the car.
Also the reinforcements are the MUST IF your building a dedicated track rat. but if ur bushings are fine and if you have no need to touch that part of the car, then i wouldnt worry to much. since your fairly new to the tracking i wouldnt worry you wont hit enough lateral g's to damage it of the bat. (IMO) but also keep in mind that if it does tear its costly. depending on the tools and access to a hoist.. but if your going to do it in your garage, like richie said.. its a PITA... Welding isnt difficult but making stong welds are.... (im still practicing.)

dont worry about every thing that you should do right away, just take ur time. rome wasnt built in a day
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:02 AM   #33
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Seems like all the ones I am looking at now are in the 280-330K range.

Any comment on how long you guys think the engines would last with that many Kms and going on the track?
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:47 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by starscream View Post
Seems like all the ones I am looking at now are in the 280-330K range.

Any comment on how long you guys think the engines would last with that many Kms and going on the track?
Again, like any other motor, it depends how it's been maintained.
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:13 PM   #35
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My 328i has 290+kms on it. Runs beautifullyyyyy

I bought mine with 280km on it because i have heard how bulletproof these motors are. I change my oil regularly and run 91 or 94 and she runs like she has 80kms on her

Great cars, solid motors
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:11 AM   #36
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So back again, back to the search for a E36 track car. One of the questions I havent been able to answer is:

How bad is the rust on these cars structurally? I know costmetically there can be a fairbit (depending on how the car has been maintained) BUT are there really any main trouble spots on the underbody? Spots that are tell-tale of bad maintenance? or any spots that no matter what will have rust?

Any of it repairable?
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:53 AM   #37
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So back again, back to the search for a E36 track car. One of the questions I havent been able to answer is:

How bad is the rust on these cars structurally? I know costmetically there can be a fairbit (depending on how the car has been maintained) BUT are there really any main trouble spots on the underbody? Spots that are tell-tale of bad maintenance? or any spots that no matter what will have rust?

Any of it repairable?


Rust and rot are always repairable, just depends on what you want to spend, check the rocker panel area, side skirts can hide rust, look carefully, also rear quarters wheel well by the bumper.

Rust isn't realitve to maintenance. You could find a totally rust free car that needs everything else done to it. Rust can show up quickly when it wants too
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:44 PM   #38
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Rather then asking all these questions that don't go anywhere, why don't you just buy a clean one with no rust.

If you're going to be building a trackcar, you're going to want a mint body.
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:14 PM   #39
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^^x3^^ All too often I see these threads and people really set way too low of a budget to get into a car like this. For example, you CAN buy an e36 325 for 1500 dollars. But, it will be rusty, need all or many of the bushings changed, need tires, brakes, electrical issues etc....or you could look hard and be patient and spend 4-5 g's with little to no rust be a more desirable 328 and have had the previous owner keep up with repairs such as bushings etc. But be diligent in your search to make sure the cars with the premiums on them actually had that work done. If you choose the first scenario, you'll be spending more and not as happy because you made a compromise. It's just not worth it. Also if I may, rust is like cancer, once it starts, you can clear it but it almost always comes back. If something mechanical is broken, you can wrench it off, and wrench a new part on, and voila, as good as new. You're better off with a mechanically broken car but a great body/chassis, rather than great mechanics and rapant rust issues.........
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:50 AM   #40
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Rather then asking all these questions that don't go anywhere, why don't you just buy a clean one with no rust.

If you're going to be building a trackcar, you're going to want a mint body.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dble Trouble View Post
^^x3^^ All too often I see these threads and people really set way too low of a budget to get into a car like this. For example, you CAN buy an e36 325 for 1500 dollars. But, it will be rusty, need all or many of the bushings changed, need tires, brakes, electrical issues etc....or you could look hard and be patient and spend 4-5 g's with little to no rust be a more desirable 328 and have had the previous owner keep up with repairs such as bushings etc. But be diligent in your search to make sure the cars with the premiums on them actually had that work done. If you choose the first scenario, you'll be spending more and not as happy because you made a compromise. It's just not worth it. Also if I may, rust is like cancer, once it starts, you can clear it but it almost always comes back. If something mechanical is broken, you can wrench it off, and wrench a new part on, and voila, as good as new. You're better off with a mechanically broken car but a great body/chassis, rather than great mechanics and rapant rust issues.........
While I do thank, and respect both of you for the help. My situation, for me doesnt allow me to spend 4-5 grand right now, at once. I agree being able to spend a few thousand more would get me a better starting point, BUT however again, its not something I can do right now, and would take me quite a bit of time to get there. My main thing is getting more seat time and work on a car (truly enjoy doing it, just tired of tinkering with a DD car and being like "shit gotta fix this so I can go to work"... LOL.

I dont have a problem with wrenching on the car, I have been wrenching on all my past cars (current included) however its gotten to a point where some things I cannot do unless the car is off the road for a few days and with me only having a DD, and wanting to go on the track a track specific car makes sense. I can source out parts and all that with more time, and if the car is down for a bit, its down. I dont need to worry about how I am going to get to work.

I know that maybe what I am looking for is a long shot, however I personally think I have got a lock on a decent car for a price that is well within my range. I was merely asking as I am new to this platform common engine issues, longevity and rust spots (however maybe should have been a wiser choice to have a separate thread on the rust as the title of this thread doesnt exactly make sense with some of the questions, again my mistake for that).

Doogee; seems like your coming off hostile and sorry if I am interpreting it wrong but I had tried to do a search and all I got was questions on specific cars rather then a general consensus. For the years of car's I am looking for a 100% mint condition one I am looking at 4-8K (from what I have seen), for that cost there would be other platforms I would pick (not saying the BMW is bad, just saying for that cost I would choose another platform). I need something that is affordable (to me) and able to grant me seat time. Even if its just learning auto-x first.

dble Trouble; I agree with you, however again I gotta look at my situation and what I am able to do. To some I totally get that I am going to get the "well if you dont have the cash, dont do it". However I have seen others do it on other various platforms, I just think its gonna require alot more work from me which I am totally ok to do.

The point for me is two fold, 1) track specific car 2) work on the car/learn more.

Again, sorry for all the questions but hey gotta ask if the search function doesnt return something that I am looking for. Duplicate thread are a bummer, and yeah call me a noob for that, but hey gotta learn right. Dont mean to come off hostile with any of you, sorry if I have. Truly think the bimmer folks are a great crowd.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:54 AM   #41
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Didn't mean to sound hostile at all. Just trying to get the point across that if you want a track car, you can't skimp out on some things, especially when it comes down to the condition of the body itself.

You might be better off buying a clean shell which is how my track car started out.
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:10 AM   #42
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IMO "bodywork" and "track car" dont go together...As nothing will last long, with all the body flew. You can try patch things up, but with all the stress on the body, it will always show (crack/rust). Best bet is to find a rust/accident free shell and transfer everything on it. Lots of hard work, but it wouldnt be fun otherwise!
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:51 AM   #43
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Starscream

Maybe think of things a bit differently, you seem to have the track bug, and you do realize that that a rwd platoform is the best for the track and performance driving.

depending on how serious you are, you could always sell the Mazda, and split those funds between a good shape E36, and a DD/tow vehicle.

you really have to ask yourself if your serious about it, and go for it. a decent early 2000's pick up can be had for around $3000, its not gonna be a pimped out ride but gonna be reliable and offer you the option of traillering or hauling the car, and parts around when you need, and offer you the chance to build and wrench as needed. I myself am thinking this will be the route I am going after the 2011 season, the E36 will probley be receiving the suspension mods I have been waiting to do, and if so I would like to not drive the car in the winter, but have the option to tow when I want, also extra tires, tools, food, cooler, wife ect really will be easier to get to events with a 4dr tahoe or something along those lines, not to mention is I need a few days to fix something, or want to do a big rebuild/overhaul in the off season, I can.
Guess the option or point i'm passing is, I have realized from going myself and watching friends, a tow/DD is a huge asset for this kinda thing, and usually you gotta pic between a mint/wicked DD and a good track car.
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:02 AM   #44
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Nobody mentioned the oil pump nut ?

Starscream, these engines have a engineering flaw in them. The oil pump nut has to be safety wired on. I'm in the middle of doing mine right now. It looks like a weekend job.

Also if you want one without rust in your price range you will have to go to the states. But seriously you will probably spend 2k in maintenance/upgrades on anything that hasn't been looked after by an enthusiast. Bushings, brakes, etc.

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Old 01-09-2011, 09:43 PM   #45
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Hey no need to apologize for all of the questions, that is what an open forum is all about. Plus we're happy to share our experiences and opinions. I hear you about expenses so if you're buying an older or out of shape car, that's cool too, just get as best as you could afford.

I have a '91 325i as you could see from my sig pic. I bought it with a mint body and floor pan, but a blown clutch and some worn out bushings etc. I paid $1500 for the car, then put a $400 clutch and over time another $1000 in bushings, tie rods motor and tranny mounts and a few other bits. The car was bought with 232000 on the odo. 2 years ago in March, and now has 320000km on the odo. Yes I drive a lot. The car has attended approx 25ish track days and 16 autocrosses since I have it and it tows the Trillium event trailer as well to all of the mentioned events. The only reason why I'm saying this is that if you maintain the vehicle and make sure all is looked after accordingly it will serve you wonderfully! I DD mine, winter drive it and do all of these performance events. I put about 1200km/week on the car and love every minute of it. I hope you find the same success with your search!

Cheers.

John
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