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Old 10-01-2010, 03:24 PM   #16
SickFinga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigIS View Post
REally? I thought there were 3 different sizes for diffs, and gear boxes on E36's.

318 has a small casing, 325, and 328 have medium, and M3 has large. At least that is what I was told when I was looking for an LSD for my 318. Perhaps is just the connections that are 3 different sizes, and the casings are the same?

On the note of headers, I was also told that the headers differ from 325 - 328 - M3. Was I misinformed on that too?

I am only just getting to know my 325 btw.
For US markets there are only 2 sizes for diffs.
Small one - 318/320 and bigger one for 323/325/328 and US M3s.
European M3s got an even bigger diff.

Now transmissions on 4cyl and 6cyl cars have the same bell housing, so you can install 6cyl tranny on a 4cyl engine and vise versa. You will have to play around with the drive shaft though.


Headers are the same on the 2.0l, 2.5l and on the 3.0l M3.
323, 328 and 3.2l M3 use a different set of headers.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickFinga View Post
For US markets there are only 2 sizes for diffs.
Small one - 318/320 and bigger one for 323/325/328 and US M3s.
European M3s got an even bigger diff.

Now transmissions on 4cyl and 6cyl cars have the same bell housing, so you can install 6cyl tranny on a 4cyl engine and vise versa. You will have to play around with the drive shaft though.


Headers are the same on the 2.0l, 2.5l and on the 3.0l M3.
323, 328 and 3.2l M3 use a different set of headers.
Correct
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:28 PM   #18
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Something else to consider is your level of track experience, it may be smarter to spend less and get a 325, and put any mod money in suspension, brakes and tires, and the most important mod for a track car, performance schools and laps!!

A better driver is the best mod !!!

Look into the Trillium BMW club events in the track junkie section.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:30 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by craz azn View Post
Yeah dude, its true. 328 uses the same gearbox as the M3.
Good to know, I haven't done any reseach yet into the trans as suspension and brakes are next on my list b4 driveline.
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:06 PM   #20
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all the reasons why i went with my 328is.....
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Old 10-02-2010, 10:36 AM   #21
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Here is a few things you should read...

Thats if ur interested in m3's

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=300562

This one is the general problems that bimmers have.. dont get scared not all of them are going to happen...

http://www.carsales.com.au/advice/20...es-199198-7438

This one is also helpful... a must read because these are problems MOST bimmers have...

http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?...d=24&Itemid=55


All in all... dont get scared by the big list of failures... its more fufilling... mine has 240k and its running mint, there are problems on mine, because i bought it for cheap... so its only expected... i only had to replace a few things though (bigs ones were rear shocks. RSM, Clutch, Spall Fan, Fan delete), and the engine n tranny and diff are bulletproof.. main thing when u are test driving it, TEST everything, press ever button, and turn every knob... and check the jack points for rust, main places are usually fenders, trunk lid, around the windsheild...

Quote:
Originally Posted by starscream View Post

I DONT think I can get a 328. 1) they are hard to find used in my price range 2) most of them I have seen on craigslist,kijiji,autotrader have been auto. Although I have seen a few 325's that are VERY appealing (price range and condition). I know its not the 328 that I would prefer, however I am thinking that for me to get to know the car, get used to tracking and that I would be gutting it and putting all that together it seems like a pretty decent way to go.

My main concern, which seems to be addressed, is getting the car with over 280K kms on it and knowing that it can still take a beating and that I wouldnt have to replace the engine already (knowing that I try to maintain it, and not just let it go to shit).

Thanks for all the words guys, keep them coming. I know there was a post above going over some basic things to watch out for. Anyone else have more to comment on that? What else I should look out for? What to look out for when buying a E36? Major rust spots? Things to keep an eye out for?
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by iverson03tj View Post
Here is a few things you should read...

Thats if ur interested in m3's

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=300562

This one is the general problems that bimmers have.. dont get scared not all of them are going to happen...

http://www.carsales.com.au/advice/20...es-199198-7438

This one is also helpful... a must read because these are problems MOST bimmers have...

http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?...d=24&Itemid=55


All in all... dont get scared by the big list of failures... its more fufilling... mine has 240k and its running mint, there are problems on mine, because i bought it for cheap... so its only expected... i only had to replace a few things though (bigs ones were rear shocks. RSM, Clutch, Spall Fan, Fan delete), and the engine n tranny and diff are bulletproof.. main thing when u are test driving it, TEST everything, press ever button, and turn every knob... and check the jack points for rust, main places are usually fenders, trunk lid, around the windsheild...
Dude! Thanks for those threads!

So few more questions:

1) Does anyone have a link to a thread on what to look for when purchasing a E36 BMW?

2) Do all of the E36's come with LSD, or were those options and some MAY or MAY NOT have a LSD?

3) Reading on forums, but were not addressed in any of the links provided. What about bushings? Rear subframe problems? Diff bushings? Those things to be worried about/watchout for?

4) What aftermarket ECU mods are there that people actually have? I know there are a few different type of chips, anyone here use any 1 in particular? Any self tunable ones (I would assume Rom Raider and Open ECU would be required for that...and a EEPROM chip writer).

THANKS for all the help and suggestion guys, Been looking this weekend for some. None of which are coming though (people arent getting back to me to see them, 1 of which wouldnt allow me to test drive it and wanted me to take it as is without that LOL).
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:56 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Dude! Thanks for those threads!

So few more questions:

1) Does anyone have a link to a thread on what to look for when purchasing a E36 BMW?

2) Do all of the E36's come with LSD, or were those options and some MAY or MAY NOT have a LSD?

3) Reading on forums, but were not addressed in any of the links provided. What about bushings? Rear subframe problems? Diff bushings? Those things to be worried about/watchout for?

4) What aftermarket ECU mods are there that people actually have? I know there are a few different type of chips, anyone here use any 1 in particular? Any self tunable ones (I would assume Rom Raider and Open ECU would be required for that...and a EEPROM chip writer).

THANKS for all the help and suggestion guys, Been looking this weekend for some. None of which are coming though (people arent getting back to me to see them, 1 of which wouldnt allow me to test drive it and wanted me to take it as is without that LOL).
2) Not all e36 comes with it, mostly m3's and i heard older model 325's came with it... i think the obd1 ones.. i belive the ones with out asc+t... not too sure... but its not too difficult to find the lsd, and the one most people get is the 3.23.. a 3.23 roughly should cost u like $350.. a decent one.

3) as for the bushings, like any car they will wear out,, when they do replace them with poly urethane ones.. and belive me most of the poly ones are about the same price as the rubber ones that u buy them from the dealer. The subframe isnt something that really happens alot UNLESS the cars been beaten... but reenforcement ESPECIALLY for the track is a must. and poly bushings will help.

If you want a chip your in luck.. also obd1 has chips you can do yourself, the obd2 require a shark injector or programed by MarkD. I personally recommend MarkD, he is local, knows what he is doing and IMO has the best on the market... you can find cheaper but i garentee you wont find one like MarkD's. Im just hoping hes going to have that sale this winter like he did last winter (Hint)

Its a car you would love to drive n work on. Challenging and you might have to stretch your budget but all in all its worth every penny the car will have more personal value to it that most consumers wont see or think is reasonable.

Im actually planing to get a mazda protege5 or a 3 as a winter car, how do you like mazda's? im looking at a 2000-2004 one.
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:01 PM   #24
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2) Not all e36 comes with it, mostly m3's and i heard older model 325's came with it... i think the obd1 ones.. i belive the ones with out asc+t... not too sure... but its not too difficult to find the lsd, and the one most people get is the 3.23.. a 3.23 roughly should cost u like $350.. a decent one.

3) as for the bushings, like any car they will wear out,, when they do replace them with poly urethane ones.. and belive me most of the poly ones are about the same price as the rubber ones that u buy them from the dealer. The subframe isnt something that really happens alot UNLESS the cars been beaten... but reenforcement ESPECIALLY for the track is a must. and poly bushings will help.

If you want a chip your in luck.. also obd1 has chips you can do yourself, the obd2 require a shark injector or programed by MarkD. I personally recommend MarkD, he is local, knows what he is doing and IMO has the best on the market... you can find cheaper but i garentee you wont find one like MarkD's. Im just hoping hes going to have that sale this winter like he did last winter (Hint)

Its a car you would love to drive n work on. Challenging and you might have to stretch your budget but all in all its worth every penny the car will have more personal value to it that most consumers wont see or think is reasonable.

Im actually planing to get a mazda protege5 or a 3 as a winter car, how do you like mazda's? im looking at a 2000-2004 one.
Thanks for the help. I'll look more into the bushings. But what do you mean reinforcement for track? Other then the cage what do ya mean?

I'll also look around for a LSD, however is there any definitive way to tell if the car does or does not have LSD?

As for the Mazda's I personally like them. Always been a Mazda fan. The Protege 5 is cheap to maintain, and they are fun to have as a winterbeater. However they are prone to rusting. The Mazda 3's are nice sometimes you can find them in the cheaper range and they are roomy, fun and have decent aftermarket support.

If your looking for a Toronto based board for them, check out TOProtege.ca (its my home forum when I started with My protege before I moved to the Mazda 3). Name on there is the same for me; starscream.
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:17 PM   #25
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Thanks for the help. I'll look more into the bushings. But what do you mean reinforcement for track? Other then the cage what do ya mean?

I'll also look around for a LSD, however is there any definitive way to tell if the car does or does not have LSD?
They're talking about the M3 rear subframe reinforcement plates. You can get them from Turner Motorsports, Bimmerworld, etc... It will require you to drop the subframe and gas tank to weld them in, but it's worth it. You should also consider getting the front subframe plates if you plan on adding stiffer engine mounts.

LSD: all LSD diffs will have an S stamped on the bottom of the case. You should be able to just get under your car and look
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
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You should also consider getting the front subframe plates if you plan on adding stiffer engine mounts.
I never knew that they had from subframe plates., also doesnt the x brace do the same thing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by starscream View Post
As for the Mazda's I personally like them. Always been a Mazda fan. The Protege 5 is cheap to maintain, and they are fun to have as a winterbeater. However they are prone to rusting. The Mazda 3's are nice sometimes you can find them in the cheaper range and they are roomy, fun and have decent aftermarket support.

If your looking for a Toronto based board for them, check out TOProtege.ca (its my home forum when I started with My protege before I moved to the Mazda 3). Name on there is the same for me; starscream.
Yea i dont really care about a little rust especially for a winter beater, as long as its reliable... and i know mazda's are... plus the last one i drove, had pretty good handling and fun to drive... ty for your help, its either between a mazda or a VW vr6 jetta or if i can find a good altima for cheap... im looking around 3g's for thw winter car... i need a 4 door
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Old 10-05-2010, 03:16 AM   #27
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I Have never driven E36 328is and wanna know how it drives. I have driven all E30s, some E46 AND E90s...
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:35 AM   #28
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Just to clear things up, the plates talked about are not part of the sub frame, they are floor reinforcements that weld around the mounting points. They came stock on the M3, but not on other models. The passanger front and drivers rear mount take a beating under track and autocross use from the twisting action under hard acceleration.

I'm in the middle of installing these plates on my car, 3 are in, overhead welding laying on the floor is a bitch!! lol.

I'll be posting pics of the progress tonight

Turner motorsports had a reinforcement kit that comes with the floor plates, rear sway bar, rear shock tower, front strut tower and front subframe reinforcment peices for $200, which is what the dealer charges for just the floor plates
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Old 10-05-2010, 07:35 AM   #29
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I never knew that they had from subframe plates., also doesnt the x brace do the same thing?
The front subframe plates reinforce the subframe where the engine mounts are bolted to (i haven't installed mine yet, but they'll be going in over the winter). What the x-brace does is connect the front subframe to the car's frame to help reduce any excess movement and improve handling.

richie_s999 is right - they are plates that need to be welded to the car. I did this last winter, but thankfully i had access to a lift so it made the a job A LOT easier - i feel for you richie!!!

As richie suggested as well, if you're going to start reinforcing, also do the rear swaybar tabs and rear shock mounts. I also went even further and reinforced my trailing arm pockets with the kit from bimmerworld - That is a less "popular" failure, but it still happens. I figured while I was doing all the welding, might as well do it right.

I've tracked my build on the website in my sig, so feel free to browse through and see what i've done... if you have any questions let me know!
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Old 10-05-2010, 12:53 PM   #30
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I Have never driven E36 328is and wanna know how it drives. I have driven all E30s, some E46 AND E90s...
Honestly i drove a e9x and omg love it... and its way better that the 328is but thats expected froma brand new bimmer.... but it does excel when compared with almost all cars made in the same time line.

Search up the Car and Drivers evaluation of the bmw e36 m3, they called it the best handling car at any price range.

And I wish i could weld.... what kind of welding equipment would i need? Would a tig work.
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