Click to go to Forum Home Click to go to maXbimmer Home

Go Back   maXbimmer Forums > General > General Discussion
User Name
Password


Welcome to Maxbimmer.com!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 07-01-2010, 01:04 AM   #1
ClayMan
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,614
Lower strut bolt (E36) sheared off - what to do?

I was removing the suspension off my E36 and managed to get everything out, except the 2 lower bolts on the front struts. After much ado, I was able to get them off, but not before shearing the head off one of them. Now, half of the bolt is stuck inside my spindle / kingpin.

I tried taking the spindle out so I could take it to a shop to hopefully get the bolt remains out, but the 2 bolts holding the caliper on are too tight and it's hard to get any leverage on them (I end up just rotating the steering tie rod and control arm ball joint)

What should I do??
ClayMan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 01:37 AM   #2
Eurostyle
MaXsponsor
 
Eurostyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Milton
Posts: 14,924
Used spindles are pretty cheap! Let me know if you need one, got several of them
__________________
BIMMER HEAVEN
Specialized in BMW recycling, all OEM used parts
Up to 90% off new cost!!!
Most models E30 E36 E46 E90 E92 E34 E39 E60 E32 E38 E65 E66 X5 M3 M5


Call 11-8PM 416 821-2578
New inventory daily. 50+ cars in stock!
Eurostyle is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 10:06 AM   #3
ClayMan
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,614
A used spindle would still require me to remove the calipers, which I've been unable to do...
ClayMan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 10:57 AM   #4
richie_s999
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 4,537
if your taking the spindle off undo the brake line and sensor wires. This will allow you to remove the caliber with the spindle and you can vise it and get more room on the bolts to brake them loose
richie_s999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 12:54 PM   #5
Trekz
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Newmarket, Ontario
Posts: 713
Undoing the bake line with out breaking it would probably be harder then getting the caliper off.
Trekz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 05:04 PM   #6
richie_s999
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 4,537
If he can't get enough leverage to break the caliper bolts off it's alot easier to undo the line where it bolts to the caliper. It's a rubber line and has flex it shouldn't break.
richie_s999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 07:15 PM   #7
someguy
Singhy
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 771
spray-on penetrating fluid should help. I recently did the same job and pre-soaked all of the bolts the night before. The other option you have is to use a torch to heat them up, however I leave that as a last resort and avoid if at all possible.
someguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 11:11 PM   #8
Dissembler
4th Gear Member
 
Dissembler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 655
DO NOT apply heat to any of your brake lines/components. Brake fluid has an incredible amount of energy in it, and will explode if heated too much. Just make liberal use of penetrating spray, and use the best tools you can find as to not destroy the brake line fittings.
__________________
S52 E30
Dissembler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 02:23 AM   #9
Eurostyle
MaXsponsor
 
Eurostyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Milton
Posts: 14,924
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayMan View Post
A used spindle would still require me to remove the calipers, which I've been unable to do...
Then you should put that as the "main" problem! Even if there was a magic fix for the broken bolts, wont do you any good at this point!

"I tried taking the spindle out so I could take it to a shop to hopefully get the bolt remains out, but the 2 bolts holding the caliper on are too tight and it's hard to get any leverage on them (I end up just rotating the steering tie rod and control arm ball joint)"

At this point you use the steering lock! Wont move on you. Turn it full opposit of the side you are working on, and use an extention (like a pipe etc) to get more force to it. (99.9% chances are it will come off!) or the caliper slider will brake (never seen it happen on a BMW before tho!).
__________________
BIMMER HEAVEN
Specialized in BMW recycling, all OEM used parts
Up to 90% off new cost!!!
Most models E30 E36 E46 E90 E92 E34 E39 E60 E32 E38 E65 E66 X5 M3 M5


Call 11-8PM 416 821-2578
New inventory daily. 50+ cars in stock!
Eurostyle is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 01:34 PM   #10
Trekz
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Newmarket, Ontario
Posts: 713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dissembler View Post
DO NOT apply heat to any of your brake lines/components. Brake fluid has an incredible amount of energy in it, and will explode if heated too much. Just make liberal use of penetrating spray, and use the best tools you can find as to not destroy the brake line fittings.
Not saying that its not possible, but i had to remove TONS of break line fittings in the trade, and torch is #1 tool to get them off, first time i hear about not heating them. Just gota use some common sense when heating it.
Trekz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 07:50 PM   #11
Dissembler
4th Gear Member
 
Dissembler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oshawa
Posts: 655
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trekz View Post
Not saying that its not possible, but i had to remove TONS of break line fittings in the trade, and torch is #1 tool to get them off, first time i hear about not heating them. Just gota use some common sense when heating it.
this is a case of "do as i say not as i do" lol. I've had to heat brake line fittings before (like you, I'm in the trade), but there is a very fine line between enough heat, and too much. I learned that lesson the hard way.

If the OP doesn't know what hes doing (no offense to OP, I don't know you or what you do for a living), the best advice one can give is to use less extreme methods.

As for the caliper/carrier bolts, the biggest bar you can find will be your best friend, as was already mentioned.
__________________
S52 E30
Dissembler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2010, 10:04 AM   #12
ScotcH
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,866
A good impact gun will work ... almost every time.
__________________
2007 BMW 328Xi Touring, 6 speed
ScotcH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 08:20 PM   #13
ClayMan
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,614
Finally had some time to tackle this. Tried my share of drilling / extractor sets to no avail. I will have to remove and probably replace the spindle. All the nuts and sensors are disconnected, the only things holding the kingpin assembly to the car are:

-brake line: should I disconnect at the caliper or at the hard lines? I don't have a flare wrench.
-tie rod ball joint and control arm ball joint: the spindle is stuck on the studs tight and I can't get them to budge, despite both being very new (spindle is old though). Any suggestions on how to remove these, what to jack, what to support, where to apply force, etc.?
ClayMan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 11:35 PM   #14
ScotcH
6th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,866
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayMan View Post
Finally had some time to tackle this. Tried my share of drilling / extractor sets to no avail. I will have to remove and probably replace the spindle. All the nuts and sensors are disconnected, the only things holding the kingpin assembly to the car are:

-brake line: should I disconnect at the caliper or at the hard lines? I don't have a flare wrench.
-tie rod ball joint and control arm ball joint: the spindle is stuck on the studs tight and I can't get them to budge, despite both being very new (spindle is old though). Any suggestions on how to remove these, what to jack, what to support, where to apply force, etc.?
Just unbolt the caliper from the spindle and leave with the car.

For the tie rod and control arms, put the nuts back on about half way through the nut but so stud does not proturde. This way you can whack it with a BFH and not damage the stud, only the nut will be damaged (and you replace those anyway).

Next, hit the side of the balljoint with a hammer ... this helps loosen the bind. Finally, apply some heat to the spindle around the stub. be carful not to melt the ball joint boot!

Good luck! Getting those off is a bitch withouth the proper tool. A generic ball joint spereader might work as well ... princess auto has them, but I think they are too thick, but you might be able to modify it.
__________________
2007 BMW 328Xi Touring, 6 speed
ScotcH is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.