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07-30-2010, 04:29 PM
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#2
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1st Gear Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Port Hope
Posts: 10
Car: a shit box
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It will sent a feed back signal thought all the grounding points in the car,there fore it will not work as safe as they say it will..
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07-30-2010, 05:49 PM
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#3
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op sucks cock
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: T.
Posts: 17,925
Car: E46 M3, YZF-R6
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This topic has been discussed at length. BMW underbodies aren't typically one piece which makes these products much less effective.
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I run a canadian led kit & hid kit company, if you have any questions about led headlights or hid kits in canada or would like to check out our products please contact me here: http://absolutehid.ca
2002 TiAg M3 6mt deoranged, dechromed, led tails, ZHP knob, UUC SS v3, GROM, OEM 220M 19's, Michelin Supersports
2006 YZF-R6, bunch of go-fast stuff
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07-30-2010, 11:11 PM
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#4
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,053
Car: '95 325is & '06 S4
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Thanks guys!
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07-31-2010, 11:13 AM
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#5
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1st Gear Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Port Hope
Posts: 10
Car: a shit box
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propr'one
This topic has been discussed at length. BMW underbodies aren't typically one piece which makes these products much less effective.
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That is very ture,but in general they do not work as they say they do..
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07-31-2010, 01:17 PM
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#6
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,938
Car: Big Red Brick
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geoff, your best bet is to decline that bs anti-rust unit and have the car sprayed by a reputable shop. I do my own rust proofing but I hear Krown is pretty good. FYI - make sure to check all water channels for cleanliness, any blockages in doors etc. will pool water/salt and cause problems down the road
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08-01-2010, 10:26 AM
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#7
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,053
Car: '95 325is & '06 S4
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^ Thanks for the water drain advice Rob! You seriously rust proof your own car? That's wicked! I've taken other cars to Krown, so I'll probably stick to that route.
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08-01-2010, 12:21 PM
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#8
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Waterloo
Posts: 63
Car: few mk1s, e30
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I paid $1500 for the top of the line Anti-Rust device on my X5. It was a 2002, and by 2008 I had rust in 3 places. I dropped the keys off at the dealer and said 'Take it back this isn't what you guaranteed.' My new hauler is a Tacoma, that will get rust proofed yearly by Krown. $100/year will save you many headaches down the road, just get it rust proofed, these claims are all BS, whether you pay $100 or $2000.
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08-01-2010, 08:21 PM
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#9
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6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,787
Car: 328is
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e36rok
I paid $1500 for the top of the line Anti-Rust device on my X5. It was a 2002, and by 2008 I had rust in 3 places. I dropped the keys off at the dealer and said 'Take it back this isn't what you guaranteed.' My new hauler is a Tacoma, that will get rust proofed yearly by Krown. $100/year will save you many headaches down the road, just get it rust proofed, these claims are all BS, whether you pay $100 or $2000.
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And they took the X5 back? What did they give you for it?
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08-01-2010, 09:49 PM
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#10
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2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Waterloo
Posts: 63
Car: few mk1s, e30
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That's a typo it was an 01. They took it back for $16.5k, and I bought the Tacoma from there as well, it was 2 years old on the used lot with 37000km. It was $31k, I dropped off the bimmer, took the truck, and my monthly payments stayed within $10. I was looking for a reason to get rid of the X5 anyways, over the past couple of years it's been asking for a lot, especially the way I maintain them. Plus in comparison to my 20 year old F150 it couldn't haul worth anything. It can haul a couple of seadoos and canoes, but that's about it. Compared to my F-150 or Jeep it's weak... luxurious and expensive, but weak. I've never seen a car stuggle so much with a 22' Larson hitched to it.
I should note, I'm a negotiator as a profession so I can work my way around a petty car salesman. We've bought our last 15-20 cars from this same dealership and we only take our cars there, even the 1990 Volvo beater, the Jeep, the 84 GTi, and every toy inbetween, we've spent a few college tuitions' worth there in the last decade alone. They treat me like royalty, so when I was upset that a guarantee was, well... not guaranteed, they were more than willing to work with me to seat me in a newer vehicle. They took the car back for much more than wholesale, even retail, but I've paid my dues and they continue to get payments from me for 4 seperate vehicles, I call it a win-win.
But the point is, rust protection is garbage. I can understand the theory behind it, but cathodic and anodic protection on every part of the car is impossible. Independent tests even show that it can slow it down, but not prevent corrosion on vehicles, especially those continuously abused by snow and salt.
What I've found to be the killer after 20 years of dealing with rust, is my heated garage. I roll in with snow and salt on the car, park it, and go inside. When all the snow melts it leaves the undercarriage damp, salty, and now in a hot environment, where rust calls home. Get your car Krown rust proofed EVERY october, and keep it outside during the winters, but wash it weakly (auto car wash is fine for a season, but do a detail in March or April), that's the best advice I have.
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