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Old 05-31-2010, 10:52 AM   #31
iverson03tj
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Took some pictures of my engine today; and the hose routing. I've narrowed down the problem to some sort of improper crankcase ventilation/vacuum leak. The previous owner simply deleted the CCV unit, so I have to find a way to properly hook up the car without it. I've been reading and some people use an oil catch can (which i still don't know too much about), or they vent it to the atmosphere etc. Anyways, please help guys...I need to find a way to properly run the car with no CCV, but still maintain a steady idle/cold start. Any suggestions are appreciated!






Thats the same way i hoked up my air intake

also if you dont want the m50 mani, im looking for one
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Old 06-06-2010, 02:18 PM   #32
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Also, does anyone know what this is?? It seems to be some sort of cable (like a throttle body cable), but it is not connected to anything on the other end on my car. It has a big connector to that black box, then just ends off near the firewall as a loose ended cable.

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Old 06-07-2010, 02:18 AM   #33
iverson03tj
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Also, does anyone know what this is?? It seems to be some sort of cable (like a throttle body cable), but it is not connected to anything on the other end on my car. It has a big connector to that black box, then just ends off near the firewall as a loose ended cable.

im not sure im pretty new to e36's but i think thats something to do with the cruise control.
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:18 AM   #34
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yep, someone on E36-Tech clarified that for me. It's not connected on the other end, so that might explain why my cruise control doesn't work lol. I have the M50 throttle body, so maybe there is no where to connect it?? I haven't really looked. thanks though!
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #35
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hey man from wat i experienced.. if it ony idles wen its warmed up its the o2 sensor..
i remember wen i first bought my car.. i tried everything .. and it was still idling roughly..
i unhooked the o2 sensor to see if there was a difference and there was.. it stopped idling and it was just idling fine... try the 02 sensor if not then
-MAF
-COILS
- if u cant find any replacement rubber hoses.. just taped them with electrical tape for now for any air leaks.. thats wat i did and seems to work.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:33 AM   #36
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Wow. Previous owner made a disaster out of that. No surprise you must have a massive vacuum problem.

You really need to get that fuel rail bolted down if you want to avoid any chance of an engine fire.

Without the crank case vent, how did he route the ICV? (Idle control valve - silver cylinder under intake manifold)

The hose in the intake boot should go to the ICV, from the ICV to the crankcase vent. Another hose in the top of the oil pan goes to the bottom of the Crankcase vent and then one last hose from the crankcase vent goes to the valve cover.

I think you're best off buying a vent from one of the parts guys on the forum and get it hooked up properly.
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:26 AM   #37
Jardine
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Wow. Previous owner made a disaster out of that. No surprise you must have a massive vacuum problem.

You really need to get that fuel rail bolted down if you want to avoid any chance of an engine fire.

Without the crank case vent, how did he route the ICV? (Idle control valve - silver cylinder under intake manifold)

The hose in the intake boot should go to the ICV, from the ICV to the crankcase vent. Another hose in the top of the oil pan goes to the bottom of the Crankcase vent and then one last hose from the crankcase vent goes to the valve cover.

I think you're best off buying a vent from one of the parts guys on the forum and get it hooked up properly.
Yep, he sure did...The intake boot on my car has two port...one goes to the ICV. All along, the ICV was connected properly. I went to BMW like two weeks ago and bought the CCV. I have it all routed up now. It goes:

Valve Cover>CCV
CCV>dipstick
CCV>T Fitting (one end is connected to the manifold, and one is connected to the ICV)

Also, the previous owner had the OBD1 IAT plugged in, so I took my OBD2 IAT and grinded down tabs on either end so it was perfectly round, and I shoved it into the 2nd hole on the intake elbow and plugged it in. I used Teflon tape to wrap the IAT sensor so it would seal too.

The only reason I haven't started the car yet is because when I finished putting it together, I turned the key and fuel began to spray everywhere from the farthest injector. Turns out the O-ring from the rail>injector is shot. Also, a few of the pintle caps are damaged etc so I purchased an Injector service kit off eBay...So I'm just waiting on that to arrive to get it all together and see how it runs.
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:52 PM   #38
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So the car is all done. I redid the injectors (filters, caps, seals, o-rings etc) and I put it all back together last night. I drove the car around the block a few times, started it/shut it off etc and it seems to be running well. I can rev it etc and it drops back to idle. I haven't really driven it too much (no valid sticker) but I'd say the idle issue is fixed. Thanks a lot for the help guys, I really appreciate it! Once I get some more cash, I'll move onto the cold-start issue lol.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:35 PM   #39
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So the car is all done. I redid the injectors (filters, caps, seals, o-rings etc) and I put it all back together last night. I drove the car around the block a few times, started it/shut it off etc and it seems to be running well. I can rev it etc and it drops back to idle. I haven't really driven it too much (no valid sticker) but I'd say the idle issue is fixed. Thanks a lot for the help guys, I really appreciate it! Once I get some more cash, I'll move onto the cold-start issue lol.
LOL good job, i got a cold start issue too, when i start the car if i dont give it a bit of gas for like 30 seconds... the car might turn off on me

And i am now hearing a loud whisling noise from my 328... i checked its from my power steering pump, anyone got a used one?
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:59 PM   #40
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ya i agree with propr'one. but i would say change both your o2 sensors on bank two. you should see a change in your idle, sometimes the computer will think one sensor is wrong but doesn't know the other sensor is causing it. if your scanner has a live graph for your o2 sensors, look and see how bank 2 sensor 2 is fluctuating, if it is a steady line with little movement replace it but if it continiously spikes it is working fine and replace sensor one


bank one and two are a way to descibe which manifold and piping. so bank one should be the pipe that runs from the manifold closer to the front of the car and bank two should be the pipe that runs from the manifold closer to the engine compartment.

hope this helps
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:43 AM   #41
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ya i agree with propr'one. but i would say change both your o2 sensors on bank two. you should see a change in your idle, sometimes the computer will think one sensor is wrong but doesn't know the other sensor is causing it. if your scanner has a live graph for your o2 sensors, look and see how bank 2 sensor 2 is fluctuating, if it is a steady line with little movement replace it but if it continiously spikes it is working fine and replace sensor one


bank one and two are a way to descibe which manifold and piping. so bank one should be the pipe that runs from the manifold closer to the front of the car and bank two should be the pipe that runs from the manifold closer to the engine compartment.

hope this helps
Well there aren't any codes for the O2 sensors right now...which leads me to believe they don't have to be replaced just yet. I probably will replace them in the near future, but I'm sorta out of work right now, so money is tight. The idle seems to be fine (it's a little low, but its not surging) so I can't complain. I have yet to take my car for safety/emissions test, but I'll keep you guys posted.
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:48 PM   #42
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ok, so I lied...My idle has not changed. I took the car for a good drive (since I finally got it on the road) and the idle is still poor. The car idles perfectly when it's cold, no problem. RIGHT when it hits peak temperature, the idle begins to surge from 1,000 rpm-2,000rpm. I did the emissions test and it passed with flying colours. No problems what so ever (so I doubt it's an O2 sensor). The car was idling bad on the dyno for the E test, and I ran out and said to the mechanic, "shut the car off and start it back up". He did this, and the idle settled perfectly at around 700 rpm. Does anyone have a clue what my problem could be?
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:22 PM   #43
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ok, so I lied...My idle has not changed. I took the car for a good drive (since I finally got it on the road) and the idle is still poor. The car idles perfectly when it's cold, no problem. RIGHT when it hits peak temperature, the idle begins to surge from 1,000 rpm-2,000rpm. I did the emissions test and it passed with flying colours. No problems what so ever (so I doubt it's an O2 sensor). The car was idling bad on the dyno for the E test, and I ran out and said to the mechanic, "shut the car off and start it back up". He did this, and the idle settled perfectly at around 700 rpm. Does anyone have a clue what my problem could be?
Why don't you drive it over and see if I can fix it up for you?

I have 30 minutes tonight if you want to swing by.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:32 PM   #44
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Why don't you drive it over and see if I can fix it up for you?

I have 30 minutes tonight if you want to swing by.
Hey, sorry I couldn't reply earlier. I was busy fixing a broken fuel line on the car...Long story, but it's fixed now lol. I actually replaced the plugs a couple days ago too (NGK Iridium IX), and I took the car for a very good drive tonight for the first time since and the idle didn't surge once. I'm very surprised; it drove very well.

I'll be driving the car again tomorrow, so I'll let you guys know if it was just a one-time thing. Although, lately when the car is cold (sits for a few hours), it idles very low. 500 rpm, sometimes 400 rpm. It's kinda strange, but I guess I can't complain; it's better than stalling/surging.
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