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Old 05-09-2010, 12:24 AM   #16
HavocSteve
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Originally Posted by craz azn View Post
I take it you don't know much about E30s. Here is a little hint: Rust is THE single most problematic part about them. 'Cam issues and Timing belt issues' are cheap in comparison...
I don't see why rust is a such a HUGE issue. Sandblast and sealing along with some primer and no more problems. As long as the rust doesn't create holes in the metal, your in a alright spot. Everyone seems to think you will find a old car that was stopped being produced in the early 90's and not have any signs of rust. Don't get me wrong though, rust is bad a long with every other issue, but where will you find that "MINT" E30 that needs no work no nothing. Just turn the key and go. Please find me =\
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:10 AM   #17
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^^^I am with Rudy on this one, rust IS the biggest issue on an E30, or any other 20 year old Canadian car period! You can get engines that will last you 5-10 year for $500, but i would like to see when you can get the same done in bodywork/paint that will do the same!
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:01 AM   #18
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Well, as you can see in the background of my signature. There is a 1980 Pontiac Trans-Am, that me and my father are fixing up. The truck lid had a lot of surface rust and along with the body. We sandblasted it the first year we picked up the car and sealed it with that yellowish paint you see around the back window. It sat in the driveway for 2 yrs uncovered. (Only because my dad works to much and I was working the same). It stopped rusting and still remains that yellowish sealer color.

So as you can see, the metal that has been sandblasted and sealed can last 2 winters and summers without primer and paint. It's all in how you properly treat the problem. I would hate to see someone turn down a car because it has some rust. I would use that as a bargaining point. I'm only speaking from experience with bodywork. I can do a lot with the body ect, but get me into to an engine and I'm pretty clueless.
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:33 AM   #19
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great information. ill keep it in mind when i go look at it tomorrow.
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:00 AM   #20
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I would turn down a car all day because of rust.
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:14 AM   #21
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Well if you inexperienced in the rust department, I too would turn away from cars. If your willing to pay the 80$ for sealer and the rust isn't making holes. That 80$ sealer could be better then the 500$ for a engine. Just saying.
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:07 AM   #22
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We sandblasted it the first year we picked up the car and sealed it with that yellowish paint you see around the back window. It sat in the driveway for 2 yrs uncovered. (Only because my dad works to much and I was working the same). It stopped rusting and still remains that yellowish sealer color.

So as you can see, the metal that has been sandblasted and sealed can last 2 winters and summers without primer and paint. It's all in how you properly treat the problem.
+1 on watch out for rust. Surface rust can be dealt with, but it is an indicator of bigger problems. Rot of the floor pans and things are gunna get expensive and time consuming, stay away. You cant just sandblast and seal areas that are suffering from rot.

Your trans am is an awful example. A car sitting in the driveway will NOT rust/rot. Its the salt and other corrosive chemicals on the road surface, which are kicked up by the tires onto the underbody, THOSE are what cause rot, and believe it or not, it all happens in the summer time when things turn humid which causes the salt and metal to react to each other.

I have a mini bike frame in my back yard, covered loosely with a tarp for 2 years. Despite being bare metal, It hasn't rusted either.

Find an E30 with the best body, mechanically, these things are incredibly inexpensive to repair and replace. But remember, it is a 20 year old car, so don't get mad when you repair one part to have the next weekest link fail. ITS ALL WORTH IT THE END!! (stupid my car at mosport )

Edit: Google search on how to test the VC on the IX. It involves jacking the rear end and driving the car. Find out if the owner will let you test it. IXs are pretty sweet rides. If you plan on a lot of track time though, find an IS, not an E
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:26 AM   #23
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ill keep an eye out for that rust.
my plan was to drive it daily and weekends at the track.
maybe, eventually as full track car.

why should i find an IS and not an E.
is the black one i first posted an IS?
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:34 AM   #24
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well with e30's i find that if you see some rust on the rockers around the rear licenseplate lights on the front fenders and your like ohh its not too bad...well thats only 10% of the rust. keep that in mind
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:43 AM   #25
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Well, as you can see in the background of my signature. There is a 1980 Pontiac Trans-Am, that me and my father are fixing up. The truck lid had a lot of surface rust and along with the body. We sandblasted it the first year we picked up the car and sealed it with that yellowish paint you see around the back window. It sat in the driveway for 2 yrs uncovered. (Only because my dad works to much and I was working the same). It stopped rusting and still remains that yellowish sealer color.

So as you can see, the metal that has been sandblasted and sealed can last 2 winters and summers without primer and paint. It's all in how you properly treat the problem. I would hate to see someone turn down a car because it has some rust. I would use that as a bargaining point. I'm only speaking from experience with bodywork. I can do a lot with the body ect, but get me into to an engine and I'm pretty clueless.
exterior surface rust is not a problem with e30's its the frame doors ect. im assuming the yellow paint you used was an epoxy sealer/primer my car has been sitting for almost 3 years and no new rust has appeared nor has the previous rust got worse. so you saying the car has sat for 2 years with the epoxy paint a valid point. because my car has sat with no such sealer
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:53 AM   #26
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Both cars have been for sale for some time. I would not jump on them too fast. I would pitch in and get a clean car.

My 0.02c
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:04 PM   #27
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The "E" in 325E stands for "efficiency". The motor was tuned to produce less power, but more torque lower in the rev range so that it would be more economical as a daily driver.

The "I" on the other hand is a much more livelier motor. It has an extra 1500RPM over the E until it redlines. They dont make much power below 3500rpm, but once your above that (aka, where youll spend all your time at the track) they can really hustle.

The other differnce is the gearing the rear diff. An E comes with a 2.93:1, so it has nice long gears for maximum economy. The I features a 3.73, rather short gearing so it can move quicker overall.

One last tidbit. Try and find an IS. The S stands for sport, and with these generation of BMWs, sport means more than a spoiler. Sport models feature vastly superior seats, that do a very good job of keeping you in place (way better than any mdoern BMW too), cause in the comfort seats its like sitting in one of those old trucks with the full bench across the front lol. IS models also get a limited slip diff, which is a must if you plan on doing any track days. They will allow you to control that rear end properly when your taking corners hard. The sport steering wheel is also way nicer than the standard 4 spoke "bus wheel"

That black E30 you were looking at, is not an I. Early model E30s were only available as the 318 (w/m10) and the 325e. Your gunna want an E30 with atleast an 1989 model year (they have the larger rear taillights with the smaller reverse lights) 1988 325 (with no I or E designation) may also be a good choice, as they have the "super eta" motors. Less horsepower than I, but more torque than I, and also has the same redline as an I.
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:14 PM   #28
craz azn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HavocSteve View Post
Well, as you can see in the background of my signature. There is a 1980 Pontiac Trans-Am, that me and my father are fixing up. The truck lid had a lot of surface rust and along with the body. We sandblasted it the first year we picked up the car and sealed it with that yellowish paint you see around the back window. It sat in the driveway for 2 yrs uncovered. (Only because my dad works to much and I was working the same). It stopped rusting and still remains that yellowish sealer color.

So as you can see, the metal that has been sandblasted and sealed can last 2 winters and summers without primer and paint. It's all in how you properly treat the problem. I would hate to see someone turn down a car because it has some rust. I would use that as a bargaining point. I'm only speaking from experience with bodywork. I can do a lot with the body ect, but get me into to an engine and I'm pretty clueless.
Even if you sandblast, the rust is still there. The only way to entirely get rid of rust is to cut it all out and weld a corrosion-free piece into place. This is a job that is easily butchered, and will always leave telltale signs that it was done. I don't care how good of a bodyman you are, things will always rust. It is just nature. Coupled with the fact that air is fairly acidic here, it won't matter if it is sitting in your driveway, or being driven.

Case in point: My friend used to have a 90 325iS. He sandblasted the doors to get rid of the rust (mostly at the bottom seam) resealed it, painted both the inside and outside, and guess what? A year later, started to bubble again. Just seeing that made me put on my 'I told you so' face on
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:25 PM   #29
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i did come across this.
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...dIdZ182517530#
some of you have probably seen it.

Also this one. looks really good. i think?
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ201932891

they are both "I"s
if i swapped out diffs and maybe the engine down the road, would that turn my "E" into an "I"?
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:30 PM   #30
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I hate rust... I hope it burns in hell. and I bet you every person on here who has owned an E30 has dealt with rust. I know it's pretty much the only thing wrong with my car. My car runs and drives mint, but the body is the negative.
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