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Old 04-29-2010, 10:29 PM   #16
stan man
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Looks like it's going well. Good luck!

As soon as you scrape/drill out all the broken pieces it should be a smooth sail to reinstall everything back with new parts.
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Ride View Post
Yeah both are broken in the receiver on mine. Solution, 5/8" tap... tap the broken part...insert bolt...go inside car with rod that fits the hole and pound out the broken piece
... a lot more sensible than how I did it.

... don't even ask how I tried to fix my broken trunk lock this week before finally drilling it out. Hint: it involves me being claustrophobic and a ski pass through.
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:14 AM   #18
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No way you fit through the ski pass?!
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:24 AM   #19
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Nice I am in the process of doing the same thing too but minus the RTAB, sub frame
-Install Ground Control coilover kit 400 front with 600 rear (MTL roads are really bad)
-Install new control arms and tie rods
-cab I went with the oem M3 ones
-Installed st sway bars 22 front and 19 rear
I have the uuc evo 4 shifter but did not get the dssr it looks like I will have to after looking at your pics
Please also write up about the differences before and after.
I will have to one day change the RTAB and sub frame
Thanks for writing about the your work in progress.
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:31 AM   #20
Bullet Ride
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lol I just realized in my original post I said April 26th to April 31st...I wish April had 31 days ... lets make that May 1st.

Day 4: start 10am finish 4pm

Basically spent the day cleaning up the rear subframe and painting it.
Sorry for the shitty lighting I took these pictures last night




Today I'll press in the new bushings and then pull the front suspension apart.

Unfortunately due to some personal matters that have been going on this week which have been taking away from my time working on the car I don't think I'll be able to finish all this work in the 6 days as originally planned. However I still have today and tomorrow, a couple late nights and who knows... I might get it done!
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:37 PM   #21
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Day 5: Start 11am - Finish 8pm

Definitely wasn't up for a late night today, I was out late last night and am tuckered out from ripping apart the front end.... more on that in a minute.

First a pic of the carnage...RIP old stock bushings



I started off the day reassembling the rear end of the car. First thing I did was press in the AKG RTABs. Luckily before I pressed them in I took a close look at the part. Based on how the part is designed it appears as though the aluminum core is supposed to rotate within the bushing unlike the OEM RTAB in which the bushing rotates on the bolt. Part of what led me to this conclusion was that on the inside of the bushing there were grooves cut which I suspect are meant for lubrication. Since AKG did not provide me with any sort of grease, or installation instructions (It would be nice if AKG provided installation instructions with there products so I wouldn't have to speculate) I just decided to pack all the bushings with heavy duty wheel bearing grease since that's all I had lying around.



Then I used the AKG RTAB tool to press the bushings into the trailing arms, it's definitely worth the extra $25 to get the tool when buying the bushings. After that I pressed the new subframe bushings into the subframe. These went in very easily, one side I was able to push in by hand, the other required a few love taps with a BFH. I then proceeded to put the back end back together...



I spent the afternoon and evening taking apart the front end. Taking the nut off of the inner ball joints was a PITA. Because of the motor mounts theres not room to fit a 22mm socket, the only thing that would fit is a 22 mm wrench. Luckily I had dropped the whole exhaust because I don't know how I would have removed the nut on the passenger side inner ball joint if the exhaust was there. Since there was corrosion on the last several threads of the ball joint on each side, and the fact that there was only enough room to make like 1/8th of a turn each time it took me a good hour to get both nuts off pulling with both arms and using all my strength. Needless to say I needed a break after that. From there on it was smooth sailing, I busted out the pickle fork and separated all the ball joints. Then I removed the strut assemblies and disassembled them. Interesting surprise was that I had two different colour front struts. They are both kyb but I forgot to look to see if the part #'s were the same.




Tomorrow the plan is to reinstall the back end into the car, to modify the strut housings and start putting the front end back together. Best case scenario the car is sitting on 4 wheels tomorrow night
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Old 05-01-2010, 09:49 AM   #22
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The way to reach the passenger side inner ball joint would be with a bent 22mm wrench, but since the exhaust is off you don't have to worry about taking 30mins to undo that nut

Looking good!
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:49 PM   #23
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bent 22mm wrench
Best invention ever
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:01 PM   #24
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Day 6: start 10am - finish 7pm

This was supposed to be the last day and if the bleed screw on my left rear caliper hadn't sheared off I would have had motivation to finish, but since I don't have a tap set, or any spare bleed screws I won't be able to finish up this project until I get those parts.

Anyways, the day started off well, I torqued everything down on the subframe and the old man helped me jack it back up into the car. It went back in no problem. I still need to bolt in the rear struts, but that will only take a few minutes. And that kink in the valance is from an off road excursion last fall



Then I worked on putting the rear brakes back on. I tried loosening the bleed screw on the left rear and it wouldn't budge. I ended up stripping it, then whilst using vise grips to try and remove it it sheared off. I luckily managed to get the other 3 bleed screws out. What I noticed that was kind of BS was that the bleed screw (at least the ones that I have) have a hole in the top but that hole goes nowhere, it's blank... when you bleed the brake fluid comes past the threads, not through the hole. What's the point of having that feature? It just makes the bleed screw weaker...that's where my bleed screw subsequently sheared off, where the hole is. I'm just venting I guess lol.

Anyways, while I was fiddling with the brakes, luckily my old man had nothing to do and helped me out by doing the strut housing modifications. My only gripe is that the instructions Ground Control provides with the kit are not as clear as they should be. These are sitting in the garage waiting for me to assemble them. I finished painting them after I took this picture.



Once thats done I just have to bolt the drive shaft back up as well as the exhaust..... and fix my brake caliper so I can bleed the brakes... then I'll be done!
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Old 05-02-2010, 02:55 PM   #25
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How hard was it to get the rear diff. off? I picked up my E30 on Friday. I think the seal is gone on the Diff, so Im thinking I might as well change the bushings also. How much was the AKG set? Just wondering.. I have to change many other things before I attack the rear end.
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Old 05-02-2010, 05:12 PM   #26
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How hard was it to get the rear diff. off? I picked up my E30 on Friday. I think the seal is gone on the Diff, so Im thinking I might as well change the bushings also. How much was the AKG set? Just wondering.. I have to change many other things before I attack the rear end.
If you wanted to just pull the diff out the easiest way would be to unbolt the drive shaft, disconnect the cv shafts, remove the speed sensor cable and then just drop the diff right out. If you want to replace the subframe and trailing arm bushings then just drop the whole back end out in one piece like I did.

All the AKG stuff I bought is right here http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...hp?maincat=e30

The poly bushings are pricey, but they will most likely out last the life of your car. If you don't want to spend that much check out autopartsway.ca for OEM replacement parts.
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Old 05-02-2010, 05:56 PM   #27
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Those bushings are pretty pricey lol.. Thanks for the tip thought. I think the gasket went so I need to replace it. (My friend thinks he smelt diff fluid).
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:57 PM   #28
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Day 7: Start 10:30am - Finish 8pm

Today I just worked at a leisurely pace... it's Sunday after all; I just sort of hung out in the garage doing a little bit here and there. I reassembled the front strut assemblies with the new GC gear. Then I installed them into the car along with new tie rods, and newer (bought used with 8000km on them) control arms. My only gripe for today was with the koni shocks. The top of the shock is machined so that you can use a wrench to hold the shaft while tightening down the 22mm lock nut. In the GC instructions it says that a 10mm wrench is supposed to be used but a 10mm wrench was too small and 11mm is too big and no imperial wrench fit well either. So I ended up using an adjustable, but there's no way I got the required 50Nm torque, I just tightened it as much as I could without striping the top of the shaft.



I started putting the drive shaft back up, but since I deleted the vibration damper I need to get some new nuts and bolts to connect the shaft to the guibo. Hopefully I can pick some up tomorrow night and get my hooptie back on it's wheels
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:53 PM   #29
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updates please! is it done yet?
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Old 05-05-2010, 01:06 PM   #30
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