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Old 04-28-2010, 09:53 AM   #16
DR.ZED
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I prolly didn't read all the way, but have you done your fuel filter yet?

Cheap cheap fix to extended crank issues.
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:08 AM   #17
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I think all the spark plugs come this way. Use vise grips if you have to and a proper socket on the other end.

One thing about ignition components. Old ones might make your car run like crap, but I've yet to see old plugs, wires, rotor or cap cause a car that's already running to stop. You gotta keep in mind that the voltage from the coil is so high, you could have wires made of wet pepperoni. (don't try that - it's a joke).

Do some of the suggestions that were posted by myself and others, then let us know. We can eliminate some possibilities then move forward.
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:53 AM   #18
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Nearly all of the Bosch spark plugs i see at Canadian tire or elsewhere have removable plug tips. Some packs come with 2 different styles to skrew on as well.
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Old 04-28-2010, 06:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR.ZED View Post
I prolly didn't read all the way, but have you done your fuel filter yet?

Cheap cheap fix to extended crank issues.
Ya, fuel filter was the first thing I changed.

I am waiting on a set of NGK ZGR5A plugs now. Something I learned: if the spark plugs terminal end has a hole in it, then it means the tip can be unscrewed. If there is no hole, the end terminals cannot be unscrewed.

I will let you guys know how it is running after the spark plugs go in. (It is snowing here which really sucks).
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteDice View Post
I think all the spark plugs come this way. Use vise grips if you have to and a proper socket on the other end.

One thing about ignition components. Old ones might make your car run like crap, but I've yet to see old plugs, wires, rotor or cap cause a car that's already running to stop. You gotta keep in mind that the voltage from the coil is so high, you could have wires made of wet pepperoni. (don't try that - it's a joke).

Do some of the suggestions that were posted by myself and others, then let us know. We can eliminate some possibilities then move forward.
I couldn't agree more, but I had this experience with a 4 cyl Tempo which would crank forever until the battery died.

I changed the 4 plugs and the damn thing fired right up! Its never happened since to me no matter how mashed up the plugs looked in any other engine.
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:56 PM   #21
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Haha

So, spark plugs went in yesterday in the middle of a snow storm (-5) haha...I was very efficient.


ANYWAY, I go to start the thing and now my brand new battery is dead...So, I am going to wait until tomorrow to take it back to Canadian Tire for a re-charge and then come back and do a battery drain test. Most importantly though, I am learning a lot. This is probably the easiest car I have ever worked on.
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Old 04-29-2010, 09:04 PM   #22
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Update

Battery is re-charged and for now I am disconnecting the positive terminal on it until I figure out why it isn't starting up.

So, with the newly charged battery in, the thing is cranking again as usual, but now does not want to start up at all (unlike before where it would start up but then would die).

I should note a couple of things:

1. The car is getting fuel. I hear the fuel pump running and everytime I take the spark plugs out, there is fuel fouling on the plugs.
2. I have switched out back and forth both the old and new plugs with no difference. It does not want to fire up.
3. Before, when it did fire up, I had to keep the pump the gas pedal to keep it going or else it would die. (Now, it is not even getting there anymore).
4. It seems that everytime I pour fresh gas in it, the thing does not want to fire up at all.





Can we come to a consensus on what I should trouble-check next?



And, can anyone tell me in what order from the distributor to the spark plugs, the wires should be run? If you reference the engine block picture, you can see that I have labeled numbers on the wires. #1 is at the 12oclock position and going to the far right. #2 is at 3 oclock position and going second far right. #3 is at the 9 oclock position and going third far right. And #4 is at the 6 oclock position at the far left. Is that the right order?

Last edited by swishsam; 04-29-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 04-30-2010, 01:38 AM   #23
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Update 2

Hi all,

Here is what I did today:

1. Put the new plugs back in.
2. Check fuel pump. It primes and there is fuel in the system.
3. Checked for spark, there is spark at each plug.
4. Unhooked the air filter box and MAS again. Note: There was a whole bunch of gasoline that had accumulated in the air intake piping after the MAS and just before the Throttle body. It looked like the gas was dripping down from the throttle body. What does this mean?
5. Resistance check on the coil showed primary resistance of about 1.2 and secondary resistance of about 8900. According to the manual it should be .82 and 8250. Could this be my problem?

What should I check or do next?

Last edited by swishsam; 04-30-2010 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 04-30-2010, 08:16 AM   #24
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You are getting spark AND fuel??? THen you are not getting air.

I wonder if you are getting a low spark and your ignition coil is pooched... but just enough to register on a spark boot tester...

Another therory: if you are dumping that much raw fuel in then perhaps you're drowning out the spark. I'd first pull your cold start injector to make sure its not dumping massive amounts of fuel in and make sure its safely put off to the side into a container and plug the intake temporarily.

Sounds like maybe you have a massive fuel dump inside the engine.
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:38 PM   #25
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The pumping gas pedal to keep it running, that sounds so much like my AFM problem I had, I changed the plug on the AFM, re-soldered a new connector and did it at 3am. Low and behold I had one wire soldered incorrectly and it ran like he is describing here.

Where are you located? Perhaps you can go to a yard or ask someone to try their AFM to eliminate this as a potential cause to your problem. All the AFM's are getting old, and they are big $$$ to replace new or rebuilt. I just bought a miller MAF conversion kit, can't wait to ditch the AFM.

Someone could have toyed with the AFM thinking they were fixing it, and made it way worse.
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:54 PM   #26
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Alright, based on this picture, can someone tell me where my:

Cold Start Injector and where my fuel pressure regulator is.

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Old 04-30-2010, 11:35 PM   #27
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The cold start injector is attached to the small blue connector north of the BMW logo on the valve cover, the fuel pressure regulator is the black drum north of the valve cover oil cap.
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Old 05-01-2010, 05:18 PM   #28
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Update

Car is up and running now. Fires up, idles, no problems in that regard. I am not sure whether the car is leaking gasoline into the air intake at this point.

While I cannot pinpoint the problem, this is what I did to get it up and going with all of your help:

1. Change Fuel Filter
2. Change Spark Plugs
3. Change and Charge Battery
4. Change Ignition Coil
5. Fresh Gas
6. (Plug in the AFM, something which at the end I had not been doing. This was probably why it was not running once there was both fuel and spark since you guys alluded to an air problem).


Anyway, new problems:

1. The car is leaking a massive amount of some sort of blackish liquid from underneath. What are my choices as to what this fluid is? Its black. I should also note that when the car is parked perfectly level, there is no leak, but whenever I park it on a slant or if I jack the front of the car up for example, the leak begins and it is furious.

Last edited by swishsam; 05-01-2010 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:41 PM   #29
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Most likely rear engine seal... if it's black (oil) and coming from the hole at the bottom of the transmission. You need to pull the trans. to change it.
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